How to: 4R70W Rebuild Diary Discussion, Questions, ETC

[Glacier991]

Gauge Bar thickness: 0.700 in.

As for a 200,000 mi fresh up.... well.. if I had it out...I'd rebuild it. Including case rear bushing, new torringtons, and possible sun gear and reverse drum replacement (depending). Replace all frictions and rubber and seals.

 

[DieselAvenger]

Gauge Bar thickness: 0.700 in.

As for a 200,000 mi fresh up.... well.. if I had it out...I'd rebuild it. Including case rear bushing, new torringtons, and possible sun gear and reverse drum replacement (depending). Replace all frictions and rubber and seals.

I just saw it in the diary, but thank you!

Now, I am checking my clutch pack clearances... the reverse drum, I have a REAL tight side, and a loose side thats close to spec, I attribute this to the wave retaining ring. Should I take the loose side, the tight side, or compress it with a clutch compressor and then check? The ring is fully seated all the way around, I have triple checked that.

Also, when checking the direct pack, it tends to open up as I am using the feeler... i assume I am doing something wrong, especially since im getting a .040 clearance. I am using the 8 clutch / kolene steel direct setup. IF what I am getting is correct, will substuting in a stock thickness or two steel hurt in any way?

 

[DieselAvenger]

This is from a 4r70w tranny. Off a 97 F150 4.2L 2wd. I was removing the valve body from the case and these parts just fell out from somewhere. Im not sure if they fell out when I was removing the valve body to case gasket or what. I just know they fell out when I was removing the VB from the case and removing VB case gaskets.

I was looking at some VB parts online and it looks like those sleeves go inside a part in the VB and that scares me because that means they fell out the internals of VB. But Im not sure were they go,
So if someone can please help me out on WHAT THEY ARE AND WERE THEY GO?

Here is a pic of them...

I know this is from 2 years ago... BUT...

They changed the case / valve body in 1996, and started using smaller guide pins. There is a ford part number to install a 1996+ valve body into a <=1995 case, which are sleeves for the smaller guide pins to correctly align the valve body in the case. It would be my guess, those are it.

 

[mechanix]

So while looking for internal transmission components I see a lot of the retailers list items that will fit AOD, AODE, and 4R70W. The trans I have it a 4R75E. I understand many of the parts are the same but a few are different. I need new hard parts and want to upgrade some or all of the weak components, but I am having a hard time finding solid information on what items are the same in these trans. Do all 4 trans (AOD AODE 4R70W and 4R75E) use the same components?
I have read the rebuild diary completely, most of the internals are the same from what mine looks like, but I am sure something is different.

Eric

 

[CDW6212R]

Eric, what engine are you building the trans for, and what PCM? The 4R75W has the strongest/best parts available, but not all of the parts swap between those you mention. Almost all of the guts do, but little else. The 4R75W has a modular engine case, so the case can only be used behind 4.6/5.4 engines.

The mid 98 and newer 4R's have the best reverse drum which includes the special one way clutch. The best planetaries and sungear/sunshell come from the 4R75W's. You can use those parts in all 4R's, AODE's, and with all matching parts, in the AOD.

 

[mechanix]

This is for my f150 with the 5.4l. I should have gave some back ground before I posted this. Here is the link to my thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225059

 

[Cobraguy]

I know this is from 2 years ago... BUT...

They changed the case / valve body in 1996, and started using smaller guide pins. There is a ford part number to install a 1996+ valve body into a <=1995 case, which are sleeves for the smaller guide pins to correctly align the valve body in the case. It would be my guess, those are it.

That sounds like a perfectly logical explanation to me. I've never heard of that either. Good to know.

 

[mechanix]

Glacier

I noticed there are a few things missing from the original rebuild diary for this trans. Have you been working of them? I am referring to the valve body mostly. I would like to upgrade it for firmer shifts, added pressures, and a all around upgrade over stock. In my thread I ordered a valve body kit, but all ideas and suggestions would be most welcome as where to upgrade.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you got one of the two TransGo kits, they have very good instructions. I would check out the Sonnax upgrade parts, they always have a few items. I believe that I bought the "Sure Cure" kit, and a VB o-ring kit, but not much else for the VB. I wish that I was closer to Chris for his love of automatics and skills. We appreciate him a lot for what he has contributed here. Regards,

 

[Chopga16]

I went into a 4r70w the first time--when I removed the valve body the spring for the 2-3 accumalator was in four pieces. I've ordered the gaskets and spring but they didn't have the spring cover--I'm not sure if this cover is fixed somehow to the cylinder -(it has three tabs on it --one was bent) so I straightened it. Do I need to find a new cover? Is this cover suppose to fit tight or what?

 

[Glacier991]

Straighten the cover tab and re-use it.

As for the rest, I plan to finish the 4R70W thread here (valve body etc) and finish my 4R70W Rebuild video this spring.

I have decided that future rebuuild advice posts will mostly be either videos posted with links here on Vimeo or YouTube.... or else stand alone videos for sale. Time moves forward.

I need to fix an electric roll up mechanism on the rear window on my Explorer soon and this may be an experiment for a "How to Video".

 

[Chopga16]

Glacier--Thank you for your reply and your postings on this sight. I did what you suggested and can now feel secure about putting the tranny back in. I think I'll stick to Harleys in the future and leave the auto trannys' to the rocket scientists lol. Thanks again. Chopga16

 

[parad1mg]

i've got a situation with my 4r70w shifting a little harsher thru the gears.. all gears work along with the od and reverse but the o/d light blinks when i drive it at highway speeds.. at times when i drive it for a prolonged period (8 - 10 hours) , the 1st gear would reach 3k rpm before shifting to 2nd and the up/down shift from the higher gears would be harsher.. only code i have is a p0503..

here's the original thread i have : http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243947

will a valve body rebuild be a suitable choice to do? how about the epc solenoid? is there a way to test these electronic components without opening the transmission pan?

 

[dancssei]

Glacier,

Thank you for all the useful information in your transmission diary. I have a 4R70W transmission that works great until it heats up. Once it is hot I have no reverse. This is the first automatic transmission problem that I have had to deal with and I would like to fix it myself.
From what I can gather I think the problem lies within the valve body or the solenoids (I believe it is a pressure issue caused by a bad seal??). Am I on the right track? What would you suggest replacing on this transmission. I plan on selling the truck in the near future and would like to keep the cost to a minimum. FYI it is tough finding parking spots when you have no reverse!

Thanks,
David

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Check the valve body gaskets.

 

[dancssei]

Gaskets Replaced

I have replaced all 3 gaskets for the valve body and I still don't have any improvements in reverse. Fluid is full and everything else is working properly. What would you suggest doing next? Any other suspected parts I should examine? Thanks

 

[erikg13]

Hello Everyone, I'm new here and wanted to ask some questions.

This is an awesome rebuild diary BTW. Very informative and well put together.

Anyways, I decided to rebuild my trans myself after I suddenly lost reverse, and overdrive. I got the transmission out and disassembled to find the fluid black with friction material, the 1-2 accumulator spring snapped in half, and most importantly, the sun shell spins independently of the shaft that connects it to the planetary.

Otherwise, the rest of the parts are in real good shape. No wear anywhere, just everything has an oily coating of friction material.

So firstly, I'm assuming the sun shell isn't supposed to spin independently of it's planetary splines? I believe this is the failure that caused me to lose both reverse and OD simultaneously. Can anyone confirm this?

Also I have a question I haven't been able to find an answer to really. This transmission is for an F150, and the truck is soon to be lifted. So I've seen a modification meant for people running higher than 3.73 rear axle ratios where you add a fluid line to the tail housing end bushing to help with the higher RPM. I'm going to be running significantly higher than 3.73 gears (4.88), so should i consider doing this mod? Is it really worth drilling and tapping a hole in the tail housing of the trans, or something that I shouldn't bother with?

Thanks in advance,

- Erik

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome Eric, you have some cleaning to do there. I'm not sure if the sun shell and the splines that went caused all of your problems. You can buy those easily new or used. If you are stressing the trans much beyond stock, you might do well to buy the aftermarket stub shaft going into the planetary.

I think the added tail shaft lube is for higher rpm and power. How much over stock are you going to be, and from reading it doesn't seem hard to do at all. Regards,

 

[Glacier991]

The spiral gear is an integral part of a properly functioning sun shell. You likely have identified your problem.

I doubt the addition of a rear lube line is necessary, but it is not hard to do and if you feel so inclined to do so, go for it.

I'd replace the stub shaft with a new one... if you can't find one PM me and I have a bunch, I'll figure out a fair price. I'm not sure you need or should pay the $$ for s specially hardened one.

The rest of your trannie sounds fine, in fact I would mic good appearing frictions with an eye towards possible reuse.

Glacier

ps. Buy a new sun shell, not used. I recommend if the ears exhibit wear you replace the reverse shell at the same time with a new one.

 

[CDW6212R]

Take the advice of Chris, he knows much more about the trans functioning. I learned what little I did from higher power applications, reading of what helps the 4R70W to survive.

How have you been Chris? We miss the discussions of the mysterious automatics. I'm still juggling too many things at once, and my 4R isn't done yet. I found .070 direct Kolenes, so now I need my direct pressure plate machined down a hair.

Chris, did you see any merit in drilling all four direct drum holes larger, and cutting deep slots in the sun gear? I haven't tried to drill it yet, I'm thinking just opening up the two top holes and making shallow slots in the sun gear would be good.