5.5" Superlift

[malcolmzilla]

Hey Folks,

I have ordered a 5.5" Superlift kit (drop brackets, poly bushings, stainless ext. brake lines and dropped pitman arm) and was planning on installing it at home.

I sure could use some advice:

1. Having done 2 J**P leaf spring lifts, at home before, I am confident I can complete this, however, it is it so much effort (grinding off bolts/brackets, burning out rubber bushings, pulling the pitman arm, etc.) that having it done at a shop is money well spent, esp. since it has to go in for a full alignment anyhow?

2. I noticed that, with the stock suspension, the radius arm brackets are part of a crossmember that bolts together in the middle. I'm not sure if the Superlift kit drops this entire assembly, or not. If not, is this x-member required?

3. What sort of rim width / backspacing and tire size works/fits bets? Ths shop where I ordered tells me 32's, but I see alot of you guys running 33's?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Malcolm

 

[TwoToneX]

1. I would say do it yourself. I had a lot of help (thanks to Joe, Matt and Ryan) and we also had air tools which made it go a little quicker. We took 2 days to do it at a lesuirely pace and of course it ends up cheaper than what a shop can do it for. Unless you can get 'em to do it for 100-200 dollars, just do it yourself and take it in for an alignment later...

2. Mine's sitting in my room. I don't know if it's better on or off, but mine's not on there and I haven't died

3. I'm running 33x12.50x15 with 15x8 rims w/ 3.75" backspacing...and they work after just a little bit of cutting on the fenderwell. If you didn't want to cut at all, you could go with 33x10.50's, but you can definately fit 33's under there.

Hope I helped

 

[malcolmzilla]

Thanks Jared, sure appreciate the advice.
I'm gonna try to install it at home!

Checked out your pics on the install, how did you get the stock axle pivot bushings out?

Not so sure I want to torch 'em out underneath the engine and fuel lines!

Also what gears are you running?
I have 3.73's and was going to run them until Eaton's Elocker (or Tractech Electrac) for the Ford 8.8" is ready, then go to 4.56's with the carrie swap.

I'm gonna order the 33x12.50's tonight.
Heck, why not 35's!

 

[TwoToneX]

I'm sure you'll be ok...it's just a lot of work. yeah, torching wouldn't be too good of an idea, but i honesly can't remember what we did to take them off...i'm a bit slow today..long night

I'm running 3.55's right now, but I have a set of 4.56's and a powertrax no slip locker sitting in my living room that'll go in soon. Hey, you could go 35's, Perry is running 35's and all he has is the 5.5", but he says there isn't much room left to spare...and I've seen it...he's right Sounds like you'll have a hell of a truck pretty soon! Good luck and let me know if you need anything else

 

[mdrut]

I'm running 35's, but also have 2" BL and Coil spacers..No trimmimg required. Also running 3.73, plan on going to 5.13 in the near future.
I did keep the crossmember.

 

[malcolmzilla]

Thanks for the info Mike, also checked out your site, looks great. How do the 3.73's do with the 35's?
Another question, what backspacing / rim width do you run with the 35's?

Malcolm

 

[texplor93]

i dont know if you've decided on installing the lift yourself, i did my own lift and with just one other person it took us about 2 1/2 days not working very hard at all. this is the best advice i cvould give you, take your rig to an alignment shop, have them cut out all the rivets and replace them with bolts, it will save you about a half day to a day, and it only costs about 50 bucks(best money i've ever spent) i didnt have to trim at all with 33x12.50s, they dont rub anywhere. when you take your rig in for an alignment have them weld the spring perches to the axle tubing, it keep it from ever shifting around. good luck and i wanna see pics

 

[TwoToneX]

Originally posted by texplor93
i dont know if you've decided on installing the lift yourself, i did my own lift and with just one other person it took us about 2 1/2 days not working very hard at all. this is the best advice i cvould give you, take your rig to an alignment shop, have them cut out all the rivets and replace them with bolts, it will save you about a half day to a day, and it only costs about 50 bucks(best money i've ever spent) i didnt have to trim at all with 33x12.50s, they dont rub anywhere. when you take your rig in for an alignment have them weld the spring perches to the axle tubing, it keep it from ever shifting around. good luck and i wanna see pics

I've heard that a couple times...very good idea. Grinding the rivets out is the hardest part by far. Do your 33's rub on the swaybar? That's the only place I've found they rub on mine...

 

[malcolmzilla]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Still gonna do it at home, will scope out the rivets to see if I can get at 'em all with the grinder, if not maybe have a shop cut 'em out in advance (good tip Texplor!)

Tires will be custom siped 33x12.5 BFG Mud Terrain KM's on 15x8 Eagle 589's, we have 6 months of snow and ice up here, 3.75" backspacing (if I can get it, otherwise 3.5")

Another question, should I spring for poly swaybar (F&R) and rear spring bushings?

Malcolm

 

[TwoToneX]

Originally posted by malcolmzilla

Another question, should I spring for poly swaybar (F&R) and rear spring bushings?

Malcolm

I'd say yes. From what I hear, poly bushings are very nice, and I'm quite frustrated with my stock swaybar bushings...they're no good...

 

[zensius]

Malcolmzilla, please take Tex's advice and have the rivets cut out professionally. I wish I had. I'd guess that it took me an extra 6-8 hours to get these damn things off. The upper radius arms bracket rivets are the worst. And regarding the radius arm cross member. It interferes with the front driveshaft at full droop. I would definitely recommend you NOT use it.

 

[malcolmzilla]

Again, thanks guys!

I went under my Exploder last night to scope out the location of the rivets and to hit the bolts with penetrating oil in advance (when I went to order my wheels/tires, the guy warned me that I should be soaking everything 2 weeks in advance, not just 2 days!)

From what I could see:

Radius arm brackets have 2 bolts, 2 rivets each, the rivets are on the inner part of the frame "C" channel, and look to be near impossible to hit with a grinder. Nice that they put the fuel filter in behind there too!

Passenger side pivot: All bolts, should be able to get a box end and socket on each one.

Drivers side pivot: All 4 are @#%@! rivets, again, and look really hard to get at.

So, I'm definitely gonna try to have a shop take 'em out in advance, but these look to be in bad spots - what will the shop use to take them out? I'm concerned about them using a cutting torch and messing up the frame and x-members in the process (not to mention the fuel lines!)

My brother is a welder and really good with a torch, but I don't think I want to impose this on him!

Malcolm

 

[410Fortune]

You can make short work of the rivets with a 4" electric grinder. I would rather cut them myself then have a shop do it, unless you really trust the shop.

The axle pivot bushings come out with an air chisel, and not very easily. The air chisel is teh best way to get them out, otherwise you can get ung up on those for a couple of hours (with hand tools

A shop does not care about the condition of your frame, they will use a torch or chisel to cut the head off the rivets, not good. The grinder is quick and easy, grind the head off thelittle sucker by cutting it from the side, get it down flush with the frame and puond it out with a punch and mallet. Takes about 10 minutes per rivet. The 4" disc grinder is very versitle, removing te guard and handle can get you in tight spots.

 

[malcolmzilla]

Thanks 410!

You guys all are the best!

I can borrow an air chisel from my dad, with that and drilling the pivot bushings I'm confident they will come out. He also has a hydraulic portapower, I'll scam that too!

I'll have to see if I can borrow a 4" grinder, I think my brother has one - how many disc's did you go through?
Also, can you get at the pivot bracket rivets with it?

I guess I could drop the whole TTB out and move it out from under the truck, I saw a tip on a F/S Bronco site where he pulled the pitman arm, wired up the driveshaft, and then used rachet straps to keep the TTB together (strapped it end to end) and lower/raise it in to place. This will also make it easire to pound out the bushings!

Malcolm

 

[410Fortune]

Yes take the Torshion beams out from under the truck. Use the air chisel on those pesky pivot bushings. Start going around the outisde of the bushing housing to make it smaller in the hole, then the air chisel will push the whole thing right out. A rubber amllet and block of wood to get the new one's in.

The 4" disc grinder will get all the rivets with ease, especially after the beams are out of the way. It took 1 disc to do my entire truck, a friends entire truck, my rear axle (converted to spring over) and more. So you dont need to buy a spare disc. Mine is a Black and Decker 4-1/2" small angle grinder. One of the best tools I have, about $50 at Sears.

You dont need any ratchet straps, it;s not a hard job, just tedious, especially the first time. Heck it almost takes longer just to do the rear blocks, those U bolts are a real PITA! and cutting the leafs apart is easy but man it can take a while to put it all back together....(when you are by yourself, 1 day late for Moab, and you got hand tools only in 100 degree heat!) I made it to Moab the next day

 

[malcolmzilla]

Thanks for the tips, my kit, tires and wheels finally showed up.
I start tomorrow AM!
(hoping 3 days is enough...)

Malcolm

 

[malcolmzilla]

It's lifted!

Ended up having a local shop do it, was a little nervous with it propped way up on the jackstands, seemed shaky. Got a good deal on the shop rate, too, so it was money well spent in my opinion.

Only issue was the Superlift rear brake line that didn't fit (too short and for a disc brake!), and the rear sway bar links hit the exhaust, but I think swapping them left to right will work better. Oh, and the balljoints when I took it in to be aligned, those I just got done with last night at home, alignment tomorrow.

Thanks again for the advice, I'll post pictures soon.

Malcolm