5R55E Problem Appreciate any Help

[CAG8R]

This is true about the heat from the catalytic converter. Which servo is the one in the picture? I don't have a full view, but from what I could see, it looks like the low/reverse servo in the bottom of the transmission. Click onto the link for the photo gallery on the upper right hand side of the page. When you are in the photo gallery, it will give you an option to upload photos, and determine which category they go into.

BB:

Yes, it is the low/reverse servo piston, which I don't appear to be having any issues with. Both low and reverse seem to work just fine. I will try to upload all of my pictures this evening. I spoke with the Axiom people referred to by Glacier and the whole rebuild kit is only $142.00. However, it did not have a breakdown of what was included in the kit. Do you know if all three servos are included?

 

[CAG8R]

Wow, I was going through this same thing just as you were. I've had the same problem with my 02 just over last week. My intermediate band ended up being busted, as stated in the TSB from ford for the P0733 DTC, and I also had DTC P0745 for the selenoid pack. Anyhow, instead of performing the steps for the bulletin, we ended up having to replace the entire trans, which is a hefty cost, just as you noted earlier. It still gets me as to why my mechanic didn't do the repair steps as opposed to the replacement. I suppose doing this all yourself saves quite a bit of money. After all is said and done, the cost through a mechanic is probably close to what I paid for the replacement.

PD:

When you say same problem, did you loose all forward and reverse gears, then have it towed, and then they worked again? I am very curious about this issue and why it worked again after a short ride on the flat bed, not only once but twice. Does the '02 have the same transmission? I thought it was different, but I could be misstaken.

 

[paisleysdaddy]

I only had the issue going between 2nd and 3rd gear, where the truck would rev up high in 2nd gear and wouldn't go into 3rd. If I worked the gas just right, I could get it to skip 3rd and go into 4th. From what I've read on this site (which has been an excellent help by the way), this could have been fixed just as you've begun doing. I think I just got kinda ripped off, but at least I got a new warrantied transmission in the end, plus alot less hassle. Unfortunately, I can't say what would have happened would I have had it repaired. Mine has the 5r55w.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Servo pistons wouldn't come in a kit since they are all different. The low/reverse servo has 3 different sizes. The other 2 servos could be any one of a number of combinations. Look at the writing on the servo cover. It would say something like AA, AB, ZC (I think ZC has no writing), etc.

 

[CAG8R]

Servo pistons wouldn't come in a kit since they are all different. The low/reverse servo has 3 different sizes. The other 2 servos could be any one of a number of combinations. Look at the writing on the servo cover. It would say something like AA, AB, ZC (I think ZC has no writing), etc.

BB:

Thanks, I will check that tonight.

 

[Bent Bolt]

Don't confuse the 02' and newer Explorer with the 01' older Explorers. They are completly differant vehicles with very different transmissions.

CAG8R, There IS a problem with your t-case.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The way you could tell the length of the low/reverse servo's shaft (other than measuring it) is from the amount of grooves. The use of a depth gauge is a good idea to confirm that you have the correct size. It will measure the depth inside until it reaches the band.

 

[CAG8R]

Don't confuse the 02' and newer Explorer with the 01' older Explorers. They are completly differant vehicles with very different transmissions.

CAG8R, There IS a problem with your t-case.

Bent Bolt:

What is your reccomendation on how to determine what is wrong with it? Is it simple enough to tear apart or should I drop it off at a shop for inspection?

 

[CAG8R]

The way you could tell the length of the low/reverse servo's shaft (other than measuring it) is from the amount of grooves. The use of a depth gauge is a good idea to confirm that you have the correct size. It will measure the depth inside until it reaches the band.

BB: I have not had time to upload all of my pictures yet, but here is a couple pictures of my reverse/Low servo piston. There was no writing at all on the servo cover. There was quite a bit of writing on the back side of the piston itself. It looks to me like the rod that is chipped is pressed into the piston "skirt" which appears to be made out of aluminum, where as the rod appears to be stainless steel. Am I close with this assumption?

 

[CAG8R]

BrooklynBay:

The Transmission Parts site is a great site. I will order quite a few parts from them. I even found the answer to my own question about repairing the valve body bores. However, it is not a cost efficient maeans of repair. The oversize valves provided by Sonnax are reasonable, but the tools required to use them are not. To get everything needed to make the repair would cost more than an entire rebuilt valve body. They also do not carry the reverse/low servo piston. I guess it is a dealer only item. Buy the way for people looking for a good price on the EPC solenoid, it is only $91.00 from this site. Better than any other price I have seen posted on this site. It is listed under Mazda though, not Ford (somewhat strange). Do an internal site search for 5R55E and you will see just about everything.

 

[Glacier991]

You are right, I have only found the low reverse servo from a dealer. And the odd ones --- the shorter one and the longer one, are out of stock. At least the longer one is. They are not expensive.

 

[CAG8R]

Well, I have finally located the major problem. As BB informed me(thank you), it was in the transfer case. I am still not sure if this is the only issue, but this one is obvious. I went ahead and completely rebuilt the valve body with the Transgo Kit, Sonnax Boost Valve, Sonnax O-ringed end plug kit, new EPC valve, and new bonded gasket seperator plate. I did drill the valve body as reccomended by Transgo as well. I installed a new Low/Reverse servo piston and replaced O-rings with the D-ring upgrade. I also adjusted the bands per the sticky. I am not sure why the transfer case was still functional, but at least I found something obviously wrong. One of the tangs on the reduction shift fork was broken clean off. See picture below. The second picture shows where the fork should have been if it were not broken.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update, and clear pictures! Did you take any other pictures while you were rebuilding everything? It's a good idea to upload the pictures into the photo gallery so everybody could get access to them.

 

[BigTrannyProblem]

Looks like your T-case fluid was a little brown. Am I seeing that right?

Also, what would cause this particular T-case part to fail?

 

[CAG8R]

Yes, the transfer case fluid was much darker than the fluid from the transmission. After speaking with the technician from Transgo, he told me that my shift fork was broken and that I needed to remove the transfer case. He said that they break all the time and there is nothing you can do to prevent it. He also said the reason why. He told me that most people tell him that they never use 4WD so how does this part break. Which is what I was going to tell him as well. He told me that Ford cycles this everytime the car is started, to run some sort of self check. Thus it gets wear and tear without ever maually asking it to shift into 4WD. I wish there was a way to eliminate this, if this is true.

As for the pictures, yes as well. I took many pictures, one for each piece that I removed. I will try to upload them today. I found an issue while dissassembling the TC. I posted in a seperate thread. Thanks for everyones help on this issue. Once I get the TC repaired and installed, I will let you know if the truck is functional again.

 

[Bent Bolt]

I am glad that that you found your problem and am happy that I could steer you in the right direction.

The transfer case DOES not cycle everytime you start the engine nor does it cycle during a selftest. It only operates when you select 4-low.

 

[CAG8R]

I am glad that that you found your problem and am happy that I could steer you in the right direction.

The transfer case DOES not cycle everytime you start the engine nor does it cycle during a selftest. It only operates when you select 4-low.

Thanks again, you were dead on with your assessment. The transgo guy agreed with you and told me the problem was the shift fork as well. Then he told me about the cycling when I aske why it would break. I did not really buy that. I am glad to hear this. I was hoping he was incorrect on this. It would not make since to cycle this during start up for no reason. However, if you never move the shift lever out of 2WD, why would it ever break?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The design of the shift fork reminds me of a similar part in a starter. When you apply power to engage the integrated solenoid, there is a shift fork which throws out the front gear. If you ever decide to open up your starter, you will see what I mean. ExplorerDMB (Drew) has a nice write up on it. I don't want to get too much off of the topic.

 

[Bent Bolt]

The fork is under stess all the time. The fork keeps the hi/low collar in place.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since this is a high wear part, do they make it in steel as a stronger upgrade? It looks like cast aluminum in the above picture.