5r55e stuck in drive... | Ford Explorer Forums

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5r55e stuck in drive...

Joined
November 11, 2012
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer
A few weeks ago, I bought a 1997 Explorer with the 5r55e from a friend for a pittance. It had been sitting for a few years, and he said that when he parked it, it ran and drove, but when I got it, it wouldn't upshift out of first gear. Reverse and first worked fine, but nothing else. So I decided to take the valve body down and check out the gaskets - they looked fine, so I started checking the valves to see if one was stuck, and I think I found one that was. After some light pressure with a screwdriver, it came loose and seemed to be operating freely, so I put the transmission back together, filled it with fluid, and crank it up with my fingers crossed that it'd shift. But nope! Now it won't even shift into reverse - all it will do is shift into drive. When I had the valve body out, I didn't realize that the reverse servo could just slide out of the hole that it fits in, so it did fall out of the hole on the concrete, but it landed on its large end and seemed to be fine. I'm pretty sure I plugged up all of the solenoids correctly, so I'm at a loss on this one. Before I part this thing out and take it to the junkyard, does anyone have any ideas?

Edit: would overfilling cause this?
 



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Bump!

Also, not only will the truck not go into reverse, it won't go into neutral either. All I have is drive, and when I shift from drive back into park and hit the gas, the truck still seems to want to creep forward for a few seconds. I'm not seeing a CEL, the O/D light isn't blinking, and I'm 99% sure that none of the valve body balls or anything else fell out of the valve body when I was working on it. Does anyone have any ideas?
 






Check to make sure you engaged the manual valve when you reassembled the valve body. You have to get the pin on the ****scomb engaged in the slot on the manual valve.
 






Check to make sure you engaged the manual valve when you reassembled the valve body. You have to get the pin on the ****scomb engaged in the slot on the manual valve.

Dude, thank you very much! I didn't know that needed to be engaged with the ****scomb and I just pushed that into the hole, that is almost certainly my problem.
 






Well, when I was removing the ****scomb nut in order to get its pin engaged on the manual control valve, the wrench slipped and it bumped into the EPC solenoid, which loosened the black connector cap. I wanted to be sure that I didn't knock the terminals loose, so I decided to take the cap off via the single torx screw in the middle of the EPC so I could see what was going on inside there. So I get the screw partially out, and notice that there isn't a flange, which means that it couldn't have held the cap on. So I put the screw back in and attempt to tighten it down, but it goes right past its original point and into the EPC solenoid, and now I'm thinking uh oh, that's not good. So I start googling and find a couple of threads on this forum which explain that that screw is the line pressure adjustment screw, and in NO UNCERTAIN TERMS SHOULD IT EVER BE ADJUSTED! I went back outside, put the screw in where I thought it originally was, get everything buttoned up, cross my fingers, and go for a drive. The truck's shifting now, but REALLY slowly, almost to the point of constant slippage. I drove it around the block and parked it. Guess I get to spend another $50 on another EPC.

As usual, I'm learning things the hard way...
 






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