5r55s install problems

[cjs04eddie]

so i’ve been trying to install my 5r55s into the car for a while now but i keep running into a problem with the tourqe converter I THINK, when i line it up and put the bell housing bolts in and tighten them down the motor locks(transmission and motor is free before installation) if i loosen the bell housing bolts slightly then the motor will spin with a lot of force(more than should be needed) now i’m using the same torque converter as i was before so i’m pretty sure it’s aligned right and the inner shaft is in correctly and im pretty sure the tourqe converter is being seated all the way onto the trans, can anybody help me?? i’m getting ready to just give up and sell the darn thing

 

[410Fortune]

You must have the converter studs lined up with the holes in the flex plate before you final bolt the bellhousing up

This is done through the starter hole (or converter access hole of the 5s has one)

Once you have the studs lined up and you bolts the bellhousing the converter should still be loose in the holes, and when you install the first converter but it should pull the converter forward about 1/4”. This is how you know you have properly stabbed the auto trans and the converter was fully seated

It sounds like you are jamming the converter studs into the flex plate when you try to bolt up the bellhousing… no no
Converter must be physically lined up and visually confirmed before final stab

 

[cjs04eddie]

You must have the converter studs lined up with the holes in the flex plate before you final bolt the bellhousing up

This is done through the starter hole (or converter access hole of the 5s has one)

Once you have the studs lined up and you bolts the bellhousing the converter should still be loose in the holes, and when you install the first converter but it should pull the converter forward about 1/4”. This is how you know you have properly stabbed the auto trans and the converter was fully seated

It sounds like you are jamming the converter studs into the flex plate when you try to bolt up the bellhousing… no no
Converter must be physically lined up and visually confirmed before final stab

okay

 

[cjs04eddie]

You must have the converter studs lined up with the holes in the flex plate before you final bolt the bellhousing up

This is done through the starter hole (or converter access hole of the 5s has one)

Once you have the studs lined up and you bolts the bellhousing the converter should still be loose in the holes, and when you install the first converter but it should pull the converter forward about 1/4”. This is how you know you have properly stabbed the auto trans and the converter was fully seated

It sounds like you are jamming the converter studs into the flex plate when you try to bolt up the bellhousing… no no
Converter must be physically lined up and visually confirmed before final stab

okay i’m going to try that now i’ll let you know how it goes thanks for the help

You must have the converter studs lined up with the holes in the flex plate before you final bolt the bellhousing up

This is done through the starter hole (or converter access hole of the 5s has one)

Once you have the studs lined up and you bolts the bellhousing the converter should still be loose in the holes, and when you install the first converter but it should pull the converter forward about 1/4”. This is how you know you have properly stabbed the auto trans and the converter was fully seated

It sounds like you are jamming the converter studs into the flex plate when you try to bolt up the bellhousing… no no
Converter must be physically lined up and visually confirmed before final stab

thank you sooo much it worked!! i feel like i need to compensate you or somthing i swear me and my buddies have been trying to fix this problem forever but i just couldn’t figure out why it was doing that seriously don’t know what i would have done without help

 

[410Fortune]

Not a problem, this is what we do here!

So glad you got it stabbed

 

[Diyerjosh]

okay i’m going to try that now i’ll let you know how it goes thanks for the help

thank you sooo much it worked!! i feel like i need to compensate you or somthing i swear me and my buddies have been trying to fix this problem forever but i just couldn’t figure out why it was doing that seriously don’t know what i would have done without help

I just rebuilt my 5R55S and plan to re-install tomorrow. Once the torque converter is seated in the bell housing (I think this is done by turning while pushing the torque converter onto the input shaft) , is there a trick to lining up the studs with the flex plate? Also, is it important to put the same stud back into the original hole (for alignment?)

 

[410Fortune]

No alignment needed any hole will work

Yes the converter is seated into the input shaft by lifting slightly, and spinning it while pressing back. There are 3 clicks total and it should be quite
Obvious when the converter is finally seated fully

Now keep it in this position as get the trans lined up to the truck
Once you get the trans
Close to the engine you make sure the converter is aligned, the converter stud should be right behind the corresponding hole in the flexplate

Now it’s time to start your bellhousing
Bolts making sure the converter stud stays lined up to flexplate hole. You can reach in and slightly turn converter as needed should easily turn w your fingers
Once the trans is flush and the converter stud is sticking through the hole… the first nut should pull the converter to the flexplate 1/4” or so
This is how you know you have successfully stabbed the trans and converter

 

[Diyerjosh]

No alignment needed any hole will work

Yes the converter is seated into the input shaft by lifting slightly, and spinning it while pressing back. There are 3 clicks total and it should be quite
Obvious when the converter is finally seated fully

Now keep it in this position as get the trans lined up to the truck
Once you get the trans
Close to the engine you make sure the converter is aligned, the converter stud should be right behind the corresponding hole in the flexplate

Now it’s time to start your bellhousing
Bolts making sure the converter stud stays lined up to flexplate hole. You can reach in and slightly turn converter as needed should easily turn w your fingers
Once the trans is flush and the converter stud is sticking through the hole… the first nut should pull the converter to the flexplate 1/4” or so
This is how you know you have successfully stabbed the trans and converter

Here is my attempt. Can you please tell me why I do not hear the clunks…?

 

[donalds]

Try lifting up on the torque converter a little while you turn it

Must have 3 clicks

 

[Diyerjosh]

Try lifting up on the torque converter a little while you turn it

Must have 3

 

[Diyerjosh]

I think that did it!
Should the output shaft/fange be turning when I spin the torque converter? It is not currently spinning when I turn the torque converter…

 

[410Fortune]

No

Gears won’t engage in an auto trans without fluid in it. Output shaft should turn freely on its own unless you out the unit in park

 

[Diyerjosh]

No

Gears won’t engage in an auto trans without fluid in it. Output shaft should turn freely on its own unless you out the unit in park

I’m just about done.
This has been SO helpful! Much easier without the guess work.
What are the torque specs for the mounting bolts (where the bell housing attaches to the engine)?
I have the 5r55S service manual, but it does not give the specs.

 

[410Fortune]

Tight! I’m pretty sure it’s 45-60 ft lbs so basically tight, I do t use torque wrench for things like this basically you want to snug them up and then turn them until they stop, not as tight as a wheel, but tight none the less

 

[Diyerjosh]

Ok. So I’ve got everything put back together and fluid filled (at operating speed—self leveled.) the problem: Reverse only works sporadically, but runs solid when it does work. It will engage after I go from D to N to R to P, back to D, then to R. And other variations… one time it was idling as though in neutral (when the gear shift was in R) and it just all of a sudden engaged with reverse. it seems pretty random.
Do any of you know why? I am
Not sure if I need to adjust anything—valve body, the bolts (pictured) that hold the band struts in place, or shift cable? I also removed, cleaned and replaced the overdrive and intermediate servos.
I have the 5R55S/W service manual and am committed to getting this done right, even if it means disassembly. I have access to a lift and plenty of tools, but this is my first transmission project.
Also, It shifts through the gears just fine going up to speed on the highway.
Any assistance would be appreciated.

 

[410Fortune]

Are you 100% sure the fluid is at level? When filling you have to run the unit through all gears and warm and check level in park. Now that you have road tested it maybe check the fluid level again?

Reverse will be the first gear lost if you are down on fluid

Rebuilding one of these is not easy! So can expect to have to pull it in and out again… once and you are awesome, twice and you are still awesome, three times and now you are seasoned.
there is a steep learning curve here. Kudos to you for taking on this project

 

[Diyerjosh]

Are you 100% sure the fluid is at level? When filling you have to run the unit through all gears and warm and check level in park. Now that you have road tested it maybe check the fluid level again?

Reverse will be the first gear lost if you are down on fluid

Rebuilding one of these is not easy! So can expect to have to pull it in and out again… once and you are awesome, twice and you are still awesome, three times and now you are seasoned.
there is a steep learning curve here. Kudos to you for taking on this project

Thanks for the encouragement!
I dont know how awesome you’ll think I am after this question.
I had changed the transmission fluid in august. Only put about 4000 miles on since then. So I saved the fluid when I drained it before the rebuild. Is my fluid (new in august 2023) to blame?
I haven’t tried topping off the fluid yet, just because it’s been so cold and this car is not a daily driver.

 

[410Fortune]

New fluid will not hurt a trans! As long as you use the correct spec fluid and get it to level!

Now sometimes high mile auto transmissions grt their fluid flushed and filter changed and then they go downhill…. Why? Because the backflush will often loosen bits of carbon inside the valve body and they can then plug up passages. There are some other reasons why on super high mile autos sometimes it’s best not to touch them. However in my experience the down hill slide usually happens when they try to do a back flush and change all the fluid… just dropping the pan and changing a 3rd of the fluid and the filter has never harmed an old auto

I run valvoline or Mercon fluid in my transmissions and I add some lubeguard with every fluid change

 

[Diyerjosh]

New fluid will not hurt a trans! As long as you use the correct spec fluid and get it to level!

Now sometimes high mile auto transmissions grt their fluid flushed and filter changed and then they go downhill…. Why? Because the backflush will often loosen bits of carbon inside the valve body and they can then plug up passages. There are some other reasons why on super high mile autos sometimes it’s best not to touch them. However in my experience the down hill slide usually happens when they try to do a back flush and change all the fluid… just dropping the pan and changing a 3rd of the fluid and the filter has never harmed an old auto

I run valvoline or Mercon fluid in my transmissions and I add some lubeguard with every fluid change

Agreed.
I just re used the fluid because it was so new… and somewhat expensive (motorcraft Mercon V)
Again, it was new in August. Very clean. Only about 4000 miles driven with it since new in August.

 

[410Fortune]

I Re use the fluid also, run it through a paint strainer/ funnel and pour it back in! Mercon v is $$$$$
Still add a bottle of lube guard once the rebuild is 100%