5R55W Solenoid Block Replacement | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

5R55W Solenoid Block Replacement

Solenoid block replacement update

Crap!!! Just finished, hooked up the battery... started it up to check the fluid level, and right away the Overdrive Off light starts flashing! I went ahead and finished the fluid level fill/check. Then when I tried to back it down off the blocks, It Would Not Go Into Reverse! It sounds like it tries to go into Reverse but then it's like in Neutral... nothing. ****! I'm in worse shape now than with my original solenoid block. I even took EXTRA time to replace the filter, clean the pan, make sureto use Mercon V, torque to specs, everything done right!
Can ANYBODY advize? I don't know whether to get started now reinstalling the original solenoid block or wait and try another one? Ideas? ...going on two weeks without vehicle... if I can't get this Explorer fixed I need to get rid of it and get something that runs...
Anybody got experience getting solenoid blocks that work?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Big tex
did the same job as you. did the same steps as you. same problem in reverse as you. ordered the shift block from 800700trans. called them explained the situation. the told me to yank the block again and send it back. going to try this and then assess afterwards. keep me posted on your progress and i will do the same.
 






That guy is going to be sending you guys another crap block, its what he did to me too. He is a crook. His name is Scott Yaslow, google it you will find all sorts of terrible reviews on his company. Demand your money back, do not accept an exchange, odds are good it will be another crappy block or maybe even the same one you already returned him. I had the same issue, it was worse with the block he sent me. I'm convinced this guy isn't even selling remanufactured blocks, just old crappy ones.
 






i talked to this scott cat, and i am getting the feeling you are right. F'n scammers. how much of your cash did he end up returning. because you can contest all of the payments through your card company, bank, or if you paid online through pay pal or ebay. if this guy doesnt deliver on my parts i am going to make it my personal crusade to make his business disappear. ill buy the domain name for his site if i have to. this is bs. only need to get it running to trade in its my wifes daily driver so not that big a deal

"but this kind of injustice can not stand man"-the dude
 






Haha nice quote. After several attempts at getting a refund and finally letting him know that I would be alerting the BBB and making it my mission to inform others who work on the cars he sells parts for about his shady dealings, he agreed to refund my payment upon receipt of the faulty block (also, per his request, it is contingent on my removing any negative feedback about him). Unfortunately for me I screwed someone else over on ebay by unknowingly selling them a bad block, and now I have to get them to return the block, and they aren't responding. Needless to say, this has created quite a headache for me. Last time I ever buy anything "remanufactured."
 






called a buddy locally (which i should have done in the first place) he has the part used (and assures me that it is in perfect working condition) $75 plus delivery. already on its way over. just got off the phone with "the guy" and he isnt in today. so going to have to wait it out to see what happens with the $170 i am owed. from tampa. got some other things on the agenda so the mutineer will have to wait.
 












Update

Called and got the "run-around"... I even sent part numbers and photos showing the difference in the solenoid block valve bodies. I gave him all the info he should have needed to send me the correct part... after three days of jerking around with them I called it done! I Returned the part and called the CC company to reverse the charge. DONE WITH IT!

BTW, I cleaned up my old solenoid block. I removed the valve block (there are two plastic snap clips holding it on) and the screen behind it. I used a can of carb cleaner and blew out all the nooks and snaches (oops ;-)). Put it back together and reinstalled the old block. Guess what? It runs great!!

I know there still may be a problem, but I don't have the time to mess with it any longer. We are going to clean it up and sell it... this has been more trouble than its worth. It is too bad that the aftermarket is so bad that it cannot provide correct replacement parts in good faith. THIS IS ENOUGH TO TURN ME BACK INTO A CHEVY GUY!
 






Alert alert alert

:thumbdwn:
For those people having difficulty locating a replacement solenoid block, check this link: http://www.800700tran.com/prod.itml/icOid/159. I made this thread a sticky. It should help a lot of people out.

Absolutely Do Not order solenoid blocks from this web site! To save you a bunch of headache please find a more honest outfit to get your parts. I stepped in this one big time and would like to save you the pleasure.:thumbdwn:
 






This is a awesome thread. Just replaced my solenoid pack and did the fighting of gravity thing to put fluid in her (isn't that silly?). Ok... Now the bad news. I was having trouble with the Ex. going into overdrive. This is still the issue. I didn't get that anyone in this thread was having ONLY a overdrive problem so I'm asking the question now. What might be my next step.

Additional information. Found zero pieces in the pan when changing the solenoid pack. Just a coating of fines on the magnet.

Thanks for any information that you can throw my way.
 












Just wanted to add something that will hopefully help others out when refilling their transmission fluid. I found it was a lot easier to refill the transmission fluid by pouring all the fluid into a bucket or pan and using a pump and adapter nipple to pump it back up into the pan:
pump.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lube-gear-fluid-oil-pump-40714.html
Or a pump similar to this and a nipple like below to screw into the fill hole:
hosenipple.gif

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10111&subdeptNum=10636&classNum=10637

I believe it was the 1/8'-5'16" piece.
 












heres the final tally did the solenoid block replacement, checked the servo pistons, today got my set of FOUR band adjustment lock nuts from ford(because they only sell them by the 4 pack, why i havent the slightest) started to torque the od band wouldn't pop the wrench was giving one last turn when i heard a distinct crack like breaking a piece of 1/8 laminate. at least now i know its the bands. the tranny comes down tomorrow. planning to put the servo bore in it and also a shift kit while i have it down. hate having to open own tranny done jobs for friends as well as at work. (fleet mechanic for local construction company) but NEVER had to do one for myself. always a first for everything. to anyone that is having the 2-3 flare and the diagnostic codes for p0775 check bands been talking to cousin who is a ford stealership tech been lots of ex's and mounties with this code that are broken bands. according to him anyway
 






tranny down and disassembled, forward planet assembly EXPLODED lots of metal pieces and the sun gear is worn on all sides and the od band was broken time for full rebuild ordering parts now.
 






Thank's for the update... mine is still running okay but get an ocacasionl "funny" shift once in a while. I know there are problems ahead but wan't deal with it now...
I might try to adjust the bands but that is it... after that; you want to buy a good EX with <75K?
TEX
 






I did the same thing as you Tex. A company sent me bad solenoid block. I let my old sol blk soak with brake cleaner while I removed the new "defective one. It shifted ALOT better for about 5 days then gradually went back to it's old quirky ways. I did this in may...I think I'm going to purchase the sonax reman'd one with the better oring seals and the blue pcb board.
 






I have to say gentlemen, this is one of the best written and updated tech threads I've seen in about 9 years of posting on auto forums. Awesome job!


I used the original posters procedure to do the solenoid pack replacement today (actually my brother did the work as I'm 3 weeks removed from shoulder surgery). Did the whole thing stem to stern as written. Unfortunately it did not help my problems. My symptoms are very similar but slightly different than most here. My '04 4.0 is not shifting into 2nd until 3000 or more RPM's regardless of throttle pressure. I have the "O/D OFF" light flashing and a recurring P0745 code locked in. Also, it will not go into 5th at all under any circumstances, even if the "O/D OFF" light is not flashing. Thus far I have done:

Fluid flush and fill
Band adjustment
Solenoid pack replacement

One thing that I have been doing that I have not read of anyone else doing is manually shifting with the column shifter. From a dead stop I pull it all the way to first, then at ~2500RPM I move to second and let off the gas and it shifts reasonably smooth, again around 2500 RPM, I move to 3rd...and then into Drive. Each shift is fairly smooth with little slippage. But the MIL and O/D lights still do their thing.

I have not tried having the ECU flashed by the Ford dealership, but I plan on giving that a try Monday morning.

I am just about ready to chuck this trans and buy another one because I'm at my wits end with it. However after shelling out about a grand for out of pocket surgery expenses plus the $400 for the solenoid pack, I'm a little short on cash at the moment. Do these symptoms sound like I'm a candidate for a valve body rebuild if the ECU flash doesn't work? I have little issue with dropping the pan and yanking that thing off to fix it IF I have reasonable expectation that it will fix the problem.

Oh yes, and my wife is just about tired of driving my POS Hyundai beater now. She wants the Explorer back.


One more thing, pumping fluid back into the transmission was a piece of cake with the hand pump that was mentioned in an earlier post. I used it along with a 1/4" hose X 1/8NPT male fitting to screw into the center plug of the drain bolt. Whoever dug up that gem of knowledge deserves a damn medal! The last time I did a transmission fluid change I spent 2 hours squeezing fluid back in via a trans cooler soft line near the radiator.
 






I used this page to problem solve my transmission issues about 2 years ago. Unfortunately I also used it to find 800700 transmission, and buy a new solenoid pack and valve body kit from them.

Luckily for me, the solenoid pack that I received was certainly an upgrade from the one that I had replaced, and it has been pretty reliable. I am starting to see the O/D light come on every once in a while, but go away when I shut off the vehicle. I do get a little slippage up through the gears sometimes as well. I often drive with OD manually turned off to prevent unnecessary shifting (although it's not helping my gas mileage at all, thats for sure).

I never installed the new valve body, and after reading all these negative reviews of what other people received from 800700 I'm wondering if it's even worth my trouble. I was planning on a doing a minor transmission overhaul (bands, gaskets, valve body), but I'm wondering if I might as well plan on needing to buy a new valve body kit and assume the one that I have is probably junk. Is there any way to test this? Would it be possible to see if it truly was reman'd?

BTW, this is the original transmission for my '02 with about 185,000 miles on it(which is a miracle from what I hear). I replaced the motor in the spring with an '07 motor with 40,000 miles, so I'd really like to get this transmission to last a while.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Featured Content

Back
Top