I guess it's been skipped over, but I'm not planning on replacing the slave...I have a Motorcraft slave installed already that is less than a year old. Can't anyone read? (I'm just kidding btw...lot of words, lots of pictures...I usually read threads mostly by pics too lol)
Anyways, I just ordered the Motorcraft main seal...$54 on Amazon, should be here by Wednesday. I've gone over the procedure a few times, but was wondering as I never read anything about it; I'm not going to have to drain any oil to replace the seal correct? Just want to be sure of this before I attempt to replace it.
Greg, I checked with my uncle...he said it wasn't cost efficient to have all of the different sizes of seal install tools, and he usually installs them by hand, and then lightly goes around and around with a hammer and a piece of bar stock, working his way around until it's in...I don't have the years of experience he does, and not sure yet that I'll be comfortable doing that myself, so I may be in contact with you for that tool...
What kind of undercoating are you using, or is any of it useful in the salt belt?
To your door delima I liked option number one because everything is all symmetrical (and it doesn’t help that I’m OCD).
Definitely replace the rear main while you have access to it.
I'm also a bit OCD, which is probably why I also lean towards option 1. As far as undercoating, I just used some rubberized stuff that NAPA had....for the bedliner on the sliders, I quickly went over them with a flap disc (like, very quickly), wiped them down with a cleaner and used spray can bed liner.....
I'll be doing a better job with them soon...
Haven't ordered the flywheel and clutch pack, but they are saved in a shopping cart on RockAuto...$185 for Luk flywheel, Luk clutch pack, Dorman shift repair kit (seeing fluid on top the trans around the shifter), and Walker exhaust spring bolts (original ones have been getting harder and harder to work with), including shipping.
Had some trouble with the pipe-to-manifold flange bolts, and only two are original; the other two were grade 8 hex heads I found laying around that happened to match, so I'll also be going to Fastenal to get 4 new flange bolts, and 2 new wing nuts for the Hi-Lift (1 to replace the one lost in a creek in KY, and 1 to keep as a spare in case one gets dropped and lost again).
I did do some work earlier this week. I replaced the mirrors on the truck with the mirrors on the donor doors (may take them off again to clean up and possibly paint) and ran some new speaker wire...when I built the truck, I ran all new 16g speaker wire to each door speaker, and then just wrapped wire around the speaker terminals. This was not the greatest idea as the front speakers intermittently go in and out, and I also lost the ability to remove doors if needed unless I unhooked the speakers and pulled the wire out of the rubber tube the door harness runs through. I remedied this by adding terminal connectors to a length of speaker wire, running it through the door and will be replacing the stock speaker wires in the harness connectors with the 16g speaker wires I ran throughout the truck...replacing doors will be as easy as 4 bolts and a plug now.