'93 Explorer: crank, but no start

[Zvony]

Guys, I need your help.
I'm trying to start a '93 Explorer that was last started in 2009. The previous owner claims that at that moment the car was running fine (was not used after that because of taxes: ~1600$/year... which is a lot for Romania).
So, here is what works:
> I have spark
> I have fuel (new pump, new fuel filter, checked the fuel return line and the pump is working fine). I did not use the tank, I just connected a new fuel pump to the fuel filter and put it in a 5liters bottle)
> Engine crancks just fine
> I have signal to the injectors (tested with a LED on one of the connectors)
> No Check Engine codes
> New spark plugs
> I have tried to started with brake cleaner spray in the intake and nothing happens
(New air filter, new engine oil, new transmission fluid)
I have checked that safety switch and it is not activated (the one that stops fuel in case on a crash).
After a lot of crancking, nothing comes out the exhaust and, also, I took out one of the spark plugs and is bone dry and clean.
All I can think of is that the timing chain is broken and the valves are shut so nothing is getting inside the cylinders.
Any idea how I can test this?
Or what else should I try?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

if youve got air, fuel, spark, the only thing else is compression and timing afaik thats it that should be there to run... i think for timing you can try this (should work i assume? i think it does for 2nd gens at least)... make sure to spin in the right direction, if you reverse it it could cause damage!!! there should be a marking on the harmonic balancer iirc that should match up like the sight of a gun iirc.. lemme check on that one... compression you can borrow a tester from your local parts store (not sure if thats available by you)

How to: - Finding TDC (Top Dead Center)

If you are doing anything timing related or doing a leak down test; it's always important to have certain cylinders at TDC at certain times with certain valves open/closed. Now, a tip for find TDC is to remove the spark plug and stick a long screw driver in the spark plug hole and start to turn...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Roadrunner777]

Answering your direct question on the timing chain, you could do a compression test, pressure gauge in any spark plug hole. (as someone else just posted while I was writing this!)

I suppose I might do a fuel pressure test/measurement just because it's one thing that will not throw a check engine light. By the way, do you know for sure that the check engine light actually works?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

is there a lien he can disconnect just to ensure when the fuel pump is primed that fuel reaches the injectors? i assume with sufficient compression, air, fuel, spark, and timing it should run in some way...

this video basically sums up everything i just said



edit: this may also be of some use if you do a comp test

How to: - Compression test and specs

I will make it short and easy to understand. #1 Start your engine so it go to normal operating temperature #2 Stop it and let it cool down for 10 minutes before removing spark plugs and very important you must remove them all before the test. Why? Suppose that you have a cracked head gasket...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Zvony]

Thanks for the replys!
1. Check engine light works. I tested with the paper clip and just pops 111.
2. I did not check the fuel pressure with a gauge, but with the first pump I've tried the was no fuel on the return line (I took it out of the pressure regulator and it was dry). Today I've tried with another pump (new one) and fuel started to come out the return line.
The pump is powered straight fron the battery.
Also, I pressed that valve on the fuel ramp and sprayed fuel, so I guess I have fuel pressure.
3. I did not check the compression, but I plan to do it on Monday. I think I can borrow a gauge from

 

[Fix4Dirt]

alright, so yeah the only "elements" left i think are compression and timing... so if compression checks out, it may be timing (or i missed something ) i assume thats adequate fuel to at least make it fire... afterwardswe can iron out the bugs once it can at least fire

 

[Roadrunner777]

I'd verify all your fuses and relays too.

 

[LG57]

Another possibity is that your injectors are clogged with old gas. You may have to pull them and clean them. There are Youtube videos of how do this yourself.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

true, could be! also want to make sure the X has fresh gas too... i assume OP wouldve done that though!

 

[Josh P]

Does the check engine light turn on when cranking the motor?

 

[Zvony]

Forgot to mention this, but I've checked all fuse and relays. To be 100%, I've swapped the relays with the ones from my running Explorer.

 

[wollimann]

Sometimes the crankshaft position sensor connector or/and wiring
have corrosion and make problems.

If you have an european anti theft system from bosch it makes trouble too.

If spark plugs are dry the injectors will not be "grounded" by the ECU.
Maybe a ground problem with wires.

The OHV has head issues -> cracks -> uses water
The SOHC has timing issues -> chain rattle -> tensioners

Wolfgang

 

[4literbeaterwithaheater]

Check the "octopus" for the vacuum lines check for a massive vacuum leak. If those lines pop off or are leaking air then it wont start either. Make sure the fuel pressure regulator has plenty of vacuum. It's a common problem

 

[Travisfab]

Check the big main wire that goes from your battery to your starter. It can look perfect, and still have a bad/loose connection. It seems counter intuitive, but it will give you a crank/no start issue on a 1st gen.

 

[DintDobbs]

Mine's a 2nd gen, but I had all this going on, fuel, fire, air, proper mixture, good starter, the coil pack was my problem. I know you're not ignorant, but evidently playing with the fuses and battery can reset engine codes or prevent them from setting, if you knock the wrong things loose when changing the others. Found myself looking for small problems when it was an obvious one.

The best part is, I drove it to work that morning, and it didn't start when I left. At least yours has the excuse that it hasn't been started in 13 years!

Best of luck to you!

 

[Zvony]

Guys, thanks again for all you support!
I'll try to answer all questions:
1. The injectors may be clogged, indeed. Before trying to start it, I wanted to take every thing out of the gas tank. When doing that, I discovered that there was no gas in the tank, only some dark orange gluey thing. Of course, when trying to start the car I used brand new gas from a can and put a new fuel pump in the can and replaced the fuel filter.
2. I will check the sensors for corrosion, but I have to admit that the engile looks pretty ok (except for dust, of course).
3. I have an anti-theft system indeed, but it seems like it still works: if I don't use the remote to disarm it, the car woun't even crank. After I use the remote, it cranks.
4. I took one of the injectors connector out and put a LED to it. While crancking the engine, it blinks so I guess it has ground.
5. The vacuum lines seemed ok, but I did not take a close look. I'll do so.
6. I will check the starter wire, but I thought that if the car cranks, then there is no problem there. Thanks for the advice!
7. I did not suspected the coil pack because I took one of the spark plugs out, kept close to a ground point and it worked. Indeed, the car had no battery to begin with, so it was connected and disconnected from power several times before trying to started and even after.

Also, Monday or Tuesday I'll try to check the compression.
Thanks again for all the advice. I'll let you know the outcome.

 

[DJE75]

Crank sensor. The cam sensor tells the injectors to open and the crank sensor tells the coil when to fire.

 

[410Fortune]

You have spark
The starter cranks
But no fire

You have fuel pressure but is it enough? Should be 36-45 psi or so at the fuel rail

The fact that the old fuel system had orange gunk in the bottom of the tank I would suspect the injectors are not spraying

You said after cranking you pull a plug and the plug is dry = no fuel is being delivered

You can test compression on a couple of cylinders but I suspect fuel delivery issue

You have spark so
Your coil pack, crank sensor ignition module, pcm, everything there is working

The starter cranks so the ignition or any other 1993 security systems are working fine. The check engine gave you a 111 passing grade so the pcm is happy with all the sensors it can test and talk to

Check fuel pressure at the rail

After that I would start to suspect a clog in the intake? Perhaps mice?

Compression test and fuel rail pressure test as needed

 

[Zvony]

I've checked the intake, all seems fine (I was quite surprised that there was no animal there).
With the first fuel pump I've tried there was no fuel on the return line (the fuel regulator would not open), but with the second one there was so that made me think that fuel pressure is enough.
But I'll test both compression and fuel pressure this week. I need to find a gauge for that.
What makes me wonder was why the car didn't even cough when I sprayed brake cleaner in the intake. This is why I suspect that the valves do not open.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

if timing is off, it wont fire... however, if it ran prior to sitting i wouldnt suspect theres a timing chain issue... the valves could have been stuck shut with carbon, but wouldnt that either break somethih, which you would hear something, or just prevent it from crabking? im really not sure on this one... i however suspect that it may be a timing or spark issue if it didnt cough at all... but also 410 has great reasijs to suspect fuel as well, so im not sure on this one! how hard is it to remove upper intake plenum on these ohvs? if so, it may be worth a looksie to see valves...