'93explorer needs MAF...does anyone know how to install?

[myslyn]

Hi all.

we had our mass airflow sensor replaced on our '93 ford explorer back in 2003 and it looks like we are having the same surge, stalling issues from then. so, now, we want to replace it ourselves and I wondered if someone knew how to install one on the explorer?

We're hoping to fix it tomorrow, so I hope someone can help me.

 

[Josh]

Before you try and replace it, clean it. You will need to find security type torx bits to remove the sensor. Read the thread below.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200209&highlight=maf+cleaning

 

[myslyn]

Did not wait...replaced MAF and it's not the problem!!

Hi Josh,

Well, the car seemed like it was having the same trouble, and my husband doesn't read visit these forums like me, so he took it off and put it back on, and it's still doing the same thing.

*sigh* We took it to Auto Zone thinking that maybe they could hook it up to their code reader since the CE light has come on but they said they only have the one for 1995 and newer. So, we went to Advance Auto and the guy there it sounded like throttle relay sensor but to check it out first. So, we did some tests and it's not either one of these things!!!

So, now, it is probably a vacuum hose and we started checking them, and we did find one that needed replacing, which we did, but the car still shuts off while in idle.

we're clueless...now, we are going to buy a code reader but is anyone has any ideas in the meantime, I would be GRATEFUL.

thanks again...

 

[Josh]

Try and unplug the MAF and run it and see if the problem changes or goes away. If you unplug it the ECU should revert to using dfault values. If the problem changes or goes away you know that is the problem. Tell your hubby to go to the junk yard and get another MAF. They only cost about 25 bucks. As for the code reader, you don't need one. Look at the post below. Also, try cleaning the IAC. It is the cylinder looking thing bolted to the upper intake just behind the throttle body driverside. Use some carb and choke or brake parts cleaner to clean it with.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147734

 

[Willard]

You should also think about changing the fuel filter. I thought mine was clogged once and checked the fuel pressure to see that it was zero. I still wonder why it ran.

 

[blairwag]

Buying a code reader is a good idea. But, in case you don't get one, there is a procedure for reading the error codes and the memory codes without one. There is a pretty good procedure documented here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

Read the instructions for the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method". Scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page, and use the "Test Hook-Ups" Clich HERE link to see a diagram. Or use this link:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/4hup96.gif

This show you how to place a simple 1 inch wire as a jumper on the OBD-I connector. This connector can be found in the engine compartment. It's on the passenger side, over the wheel well. Looking from the front of the engine (hood up), there's a large black box on the side - this is the PCM (engine control computer). Just on the other side of that black box, the OBD-I connector is pushed into a dummy connector housing (probably to keep it clean and safe). Pull it out of the connector by pulling it down. A flat-head screw driver will help to open the securing clip. You need the large connector, and the little single wire connector.

Follow the instructions to read the flashing CHECK ENGINE light (a.k.a MIL - malfunction indicator lamp). One of the codes you're looking for is 111. This is the separator code between current and memory codes.

Hope this helps...

 

[myslyn]

Try and unplug the MAF and run it and see if the problem changes or goes away. If you unplug it the ECU should revert to using dfault values. If the problem changes or goes away you know that is the problem. Tell your hubby to go to the junk yard and get another MAF. They only cost about 25 bucks. As for the code reader, you don't need one. Look at the post below. Also, try cleaning the IAC. It is the cylinder looking thing bolted to the upper intake just behind the throttle body driverside. Use some carb and choke or brake parts cleaner to clean it with.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147734

Yeah, well, we unplugged it while at the auto parts store and the car still wanted to cut out. So, that's why we checked some hoses and there was one that was not good, so at least we did catch that. The guy at the auto parts store discouraged us from using the original way of checking and I can't seem to find a voltmeter! Any ideas?
However, the MAF we can just kick ourselves over, and by the way, I know how to take off parts too and I love trolling around the junkyard. Can't wait for springtime again!
We're gonna clean the IAC today...man, we looked right at it and everything AND we just bought the Haynes for 1991-1994 so we had some info. but if you aren't used to looking at the parts, then it all slips right by you.

Thanks though...

 

[myslyn]

You should also think about changing the fuel filter. I thought mine was clogged once and checked the fuel pressure to see that it was zero. I still wonder why it ran.

thanks Jesse...we'll check that too! It's been around 4 yrs. since we last changed it but you know what a pain in the *bleep!* it is to change it out.

 

[myslyn]

Buying a code reader is a good idea. But, in case you don't get one, there is a procedure for reading the error codes and the memory codes without one. There is a pretty good procedure documented here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

Read the instructions for the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method". Scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page, and use the "Test Hook-Ups" Clich HERE link to see a diagram. Or use this link:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/4hup96.gif

This show you how to place a simple 1 inch wire as a jumper on the OBD-I connector. This connector can be found in the engine compartment. It's on the passenger side, over the wheel well. Looking from the front of the engine (hood up), there's a large black box on the side - this is the PCM (engine control computer). Just on the other side of that black box, the OBD-I connector is pushed into a dummy connector housing (probably to keep it clean and safe). Pull it out of the connector by pulling it down. A flat-head screw driver will help to open the securing clip. You need the large connector, and the little single wire connector.

Follow the instructions to read the flashing CHECK ENGINE light (a.k.a MIL - malfunction indicator lamp). One of the codes you're looking for is 111. This is the separator code between current and memory codes.

Hope this helps...

Wow, this is some great advice and helpful information! Thanks so much for letting us know this and now, all I need is to find a voltmeter. What do they look like? When I looked online and typed in voltmeter, all I got was a lot of funky links to devices that were larger and more expensive.

 

[Turdle]

Get the best digital meter you can afford-
Radio shack sells them,
Home depot-heck even wal mart has a yellow one that will be a good entry level for around 15 bux-it will be right near the automotive fuses and wiring. I have one and it works just fine for a unit to bang around--
If you want to invest now-get a Fluke, or Simpson brand

 

[Josh]

and by the way, I know how to take off parts too and I love trolling around the junkyard.

Your husband is a lucky man

I believe the volt meter needed for this procedure is a simpson(Analog) meter. You need to be able to watch the needle pulse. A digital meter can't react that quick. Just spend the 30 bucks. You know, I wonder if you could use a test light instead of the wire and just watch it blink?? Do you hear any hissing when the motor is running? On the back of the upper intake is the vacum tree and there is one on the back that you really can't see. You have to feel for it with your fingertip.

 

[myslyn]

Get the best digital meter you can afford-
Radio shack sells them,
Home depot-heck even wal mart has a yellow one that will be a good entry level for around 15 bux-it will be right near the automotive fuses and wiring. I have one and it works just fine for a unit to bang around--
If you want to invest now-get a Fluke, or Simpson brand

That is some good advice! We shop at Walmart often so we'll check out the entry level one first, and then, as we look to invest more into the maintenance side of our Explorer, we'll probably look at a more expensive model.

thanks again...

 

[myslyn]

IAC clean and re-install works but possible temporary fix

I believe the volt meter needed for this procedure is a simpson(Analog) meter. You need to be able to watch the needle pulse. A digital meter can't react that quick. Just spend the 30 bucks. You know, I wonder if you could use a test light instead of the wire and just watch it blink?? On the back of the upper intake is the vacum tree and there is one on the back that you really can't see. You have to feel for it with your fingertip.

Your husband is a lucky man Well, ya know, ya know... I just like taking parts apart and putting them back on, who knew it would come in handy someday?

We'll probably spend the money even though I think we can do it without the code reader since we have the Haynes manual for our truck, but whatever.

Do you hear any hissing when the motor is running? I did not hear anything yesterday but that's because I was so focused on the IAC clean and re-install, which worked by the way!!! I should have mentioned that first.

Now, it started up and idled high at first but then, around 3 minutes into it, it cut off again but we were tired of fiddling with it; if it happens again, we're going to buy another one and my hubby will put it in.

It feels good to know what you are looking at and recognize the part, and I think that is what is going to happen from us tinkering under the hood more now than we did in the past. Once the weather clears, we should start taking off those parts, clean them and the electrical connectors to help our vehicle perform better. I know that we did not think of this in the past and most people don't look at their vehicles that way either.

 

[myslyn]

STILL in need of help with Ex...please help!

Hi again...

Well, this time we took the IAC off and bought a new one today and the Ex. still cuts out. What have we missed so far?

It's going to get colder and we need to get this fixed, and FAST! Please someone, do you have any ideas?

 

[Josh]

Please recap all that you have done.

One other idea I have is to possibly check/tighten all the intake manifold bolts. There are 2 sets to check.

The upper intake nuts are in the middle of the engine between the intake runners. That is the big silver thing that the IAC bolts to.

The lower intake bolts run on either side of the engine on the inside edge of the valve covers. You dont need to take anything off. They are 10mm bolts. Go over them twice. sometimes snugging one will loosen one that was already snug.

Do not crank them down to tight. Just make sure they are good and snug. Those should be checked everyso often because they are known to back out.

Did you feel on the back of the vacum tree for another connection that might be missing? It is easy to miss.

 

[myslyn]

HELP!!! So frustrated...

Please recap all that you have done.



Did you feel on the back of the vacum tree for another connection that might be missing? It is easy to miss.

We have not checked this yet, but we will after I post this message.

When I first posted, the issue we had, and still have, is that the car idles at 1000 rpms or lower in park or when when stopped at an intersection. If we cannot move the car within 1 1/2 minutes, it will stall. It always starts up but it idles low and never rises much above 1000 rpms at a time.

So, to address this issue, we changed out the MAF, a vacuum hose and fittings, cleaned the IAC and now replaced it and the car continues to idle low (and stall out if idled for too long) and we don't know where to go from here.

Now, we are not sure if we should have changed out the IAC because it didn't make a difference one way or the other. :-(

Is it the fuel filter? I hope not the O2 sensor...we were thinking that we could change out our spark plugs again, if anyone thinks this will help?

thanks for your advice...we'll check to make sure all is on tight.

 

[Josh]

Is your check engine light on when driving? If so, you will need the codes to help diagnose the problem. Does the exhaust look sooty or black when it comes out the tailpipe and smell like unburned fuel?

 

[myslyn]

Is your check engine light on when driving? If so, you will need the codes to help diagnose the problem. Does the exhaust look sooty or black when it comes out the tailpipe and smell like unburned fuel?

Um, ya know, the check engine light disappeared after we replaced the IAC. And the exhaust does look a bit sooty and does smell strange, actually, it does smell like unburned fuel! What does this mean???

I thought it was because of the low idle...

 

[Josh]

Well?? Any luck?

 

[myslyn]

No, no luck Josh, it's actually not idling as well as it did BEFORE we installed the new one today, if that helps anything.

We drove it tonight 'cause it's our only car,and it wanted to die anytime we idled more than 30 seconds...so, the situation is getting worse, I think...

We don't know what it means if we are running too rich...sometimes really not right and we don't know which way to go...