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'94 code 214 CID gremlin

hondakillah

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Hey, I was wondering if anyone could offer me some advice on finding out what might be wrong with my Explorer.

She had been sitting for the past couple months waiting for a replacement lower intake manifold gasket. I just got her running 3 days ago, and ran great. Late in the 2nd day of running, the CEL would be intermittent coming on, with changes in how the engine ran. Now it's on constantly, and my Explorer's code of choice is 214: Cylinder Identification failure.

I spent 2 hours yesterday chasing this gremlin. I checked the CMP and the CKP, both were receiving required voltage. Both had pings of volts going through them. I replaced the CMP sensor only, not the entire housing, a couple years ago.

Need more info? Ask, I'll respond when I can.
Thanks a bunch for your help.
 



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hondakillah

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So, ive been continuing to chase this problem, and haven't found the cause yet. My best guess is I have a short somehwere in my system. I tried following the diagnostic instructions listed in this thread. But I may be incompitent, because I get to a point where i know i should be getting a reading of some kind, but i get nothing.
So if it is a short, are there any guesses where I may look for wires to be frayed, melted, or ripped along the lines of the CMP sensor? Typical places that these things may happen? Also, if i just pull the sensor, not the whole unit, is there a way for me to see if that is bad?
 






NICE59FORDF100

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Does the vehicle still start? What I would do is check for continutiy on both the CKP (Crank Position Sensor) and Cam Position Sensor circuits. The Crank sensor goes to the the ignition module, whereas the cam sensor goes to the pcm. You want to check the following:

Cam Sensor (3 Wires):
Red Wire: Are you getting 12 volts on this wire with the key in run, no volts with key off?
Black/White wire: Are you getting ground at all time?
Dark Blue/Orange wire: Do you have continuity (0 omhs) on this wire from the three pin connector to pin #24 at the pcm?

Crank Sensor (2 Wires):
Dark Blue: Are you getting continuity on this wire to pin #5 at the ignition Module?
Gray Wire: Are you getting continuity on this wire to pin #6 at the ignition Module?

let us know what you find for these.
 






hondakillah

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Does the vehicle still start? Yes. What I would do is check for continutiy on both the CKP (Crank Position Sensor) and Cam Position Sensor circuits. The Crank sensor goes to the the ignition module, whereas the cam sensor goes to the pcm. You want to check the following:

Cam Sensor (3 Wires):
Red Wire: Are you getting 12 volts on this wire with the key in run, no volts with key off?Key on: 11.73 volts. Key off: 0.0 volts
Black/White wire: Are you getting ground at all time?Continuity check, yes. 0.6 ohms, key off, checked at battery terminal
Dark Blue/Orange wire: Do you have continuity (0 omhs) on this wire from the three pin connector to pin #24 at the pcm?0.4 ohms between the plug and the pin.

Crank Sensor (2 Wires):
Dark Blue: Are you getting continuity on this wire to pin #5 at the ignition Module?Continuity, yes. 0.8 ohms
Gray Wire: Are you getting continuity on this wire to pin #6 at the ignition Module?Continuity, yes. 0.8 ohms

let us know what you find for these.

Responses inside quote in RED
 






NICE59FORDF100

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So you eliminated any shorts that might be in the system. Sounds to me it is either a bad cam sensor (more likely) or bad pcm (unlikely). If it is starting, that tells me that the Crank sensor is good (otherwise, no start). Do you have access to another 94 pcm that you could plug in to determine if the pcm is bad? When pulling codes, do you get the 111 check code?
 






hondakillah

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I don't have access to another PCM sadly. And what do you mean by the check code? KOER I get a 111, KOEO, I get the 214 in constant, even after I clear the memory, and restart the rig, 214 comes right back.
 






NICE59FORDF100

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A check Code 111 simply means the PCM performs a successful self check and its self diagnostic systems pass. If you get a 111, chances are PCM is a-ok. So that would leave me to believe you have a bad Cam sensor assembly, especially if you're not getting any reading on the signal wire with the vehicle running.
 






hondakillah

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bah humbug
 






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