94 ex surges with IAC plugged in | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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94 ex surges with IAC plugged in

Well, it's been several months since my last post. The reason I've waited so long is to observe how the ex is acting. Since then I have replaced the coolant temp sensor. But it still surges. Before I put the sensor on the surging had happened alot less than it had been and it still doesn't do it as much as it used to, but I seen no difference from before the sensor to after I put it on. I guess I'll do a vacuum leak test next.
I figured I would just update everybody.
 



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Well it's been another 5 months with this aggrevation. I do not have any vacuum leaks. I also bought a new computer and it did not make a difference. Here's the list of parts changed.
-Several fuel filters
-new iac
-Tps with a known good one
-New dpfe (that fixed check engine light for egr)
-Mas air flow sensor with a known good one
-new egr
-Engine coolant sensor (both for the guage and computer) with known good sensors
-new computer

A crazy part about this is when I changed the parts it would run good for a couple days or weeks then start acting up again.

The current surging conditions are when I crank it at cold start the engine will not rev up for the first couple of secs like it should. It tries to, like it'll Rev up to 1500 for a sec then fall down to 500 then back up then back down. It's not got a rhythm or cycle, it'll go up and down randomly.
While driving or accelerating the rpms will still go up and down and I can feel it. It'll have a boost of power when the rpms go up and then when the rpms go down it'll feel like I have let off the gas but I haven't, then pick back up again, this too is not in a pattern or cycle it's totally random.

And still to this day if I unplug the iac I will have no surging at all. I just hate the rpm being so low at cold start (400-500). It just barely runs. But when engine warms up it'll idle at around 700 like it should.

I really don't know where to go at this point.
I've had an idea of is there such a thing as an inconsistent vaccum leak. For example, the vaccum that that runs the heater control valve is turned on when the climate control knob is on max ac or off. So is there more electronically controlled vaccum lines?
Or if you know of a different possible answer please respond. Thank you!

Also I've been thinking about. keeping the iac unplugged and adjusting the idle screw up some to make it cold start idle a little better but then I don't want it to be idling too high after it warms up.
So I don't really know what to do.
 






Any update? I bet the Coolant Temp sensor did the trick! Anytime my 92 does it that's my first go to. Cheap and easy. Aftermarket parts are hit or miss. Master Ignition from O'REILLY seems to be the most dependable.
 






When you put in new electric parts take out the battery and put touch both battery wires together for 5 minutes. It completely drains the capacitors in the ECM so everything can be relearned; nothing stored to interfere. First Gens are extremely "dumb" when it comes to CELs and malfunctioning parts.
 






Any update? I bet the Coolant Temp sensor did the trick! Anytime my 92 does it that's my first go to. Cheap and easy. Aftermarket parts are hit or miss. Master Ignition from O'REILLY seems to be the most dependable.

When you put in new electric parts take out the battery and put touch both battery wires together for 5 minutes. It completely drains the capacitors in the ECM so everything can be relearned; nothing stored to interfere. First Gens are extremely "dumb" when it comes to CELs and malfunctioning parts.
I changed the coolant temp sensor using the one off of my parts explorer and it made no difference.
When I changed the computer I did unhook the battery cables but never touched them together. It was unhooked for more than 20 mins.
What I decided to do now is leave the iac unplugged and I adjusted my idle screw. On a cold start it'll idle around 700 which is alot better than 400 ( barely running). Once the engine is warmed up it'll idle around 900. I can live with this, so I may just leave it this way. It's running good.
 






I changed the coolant temp sensor using the one off of my parts explorer and it made no difference.
When I changed the computer I did unhook the battery cables but never touched them together. It was unhooked for more than 20 mins.
What I decided to do now is leave the iac unplugged and I adjusted my idle screw. On a cold start it'll idle around 700 which is alot better than 400 ( barely running). Once the engine is warmed up it'll idle around 900. I can live with this, so I may just leave it this way. It's running good.
I had my IAC unplugged too when I went through the same surging issue. I'd just put my foot down on the gas while it was warming up. I still think you should drain the computer completely via the positive and negatives together and put an ECT from O'REILLY. There really aren't many things that would affect surging on such a simple motor.
 






I had my IAC unplugged too when I went through the same surging issue. I'd just put my foot down on the gas while it was warming up. I still think you should drain the computer completely via the positive and negatives together and put an ECT from O'REILLY. There really aren't many things that would affect surging on such a simple motor.
Ok, I've already returned the computer but I will do the battery cable thing.
 












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