At my wits end with this issue

[Centaurious]

Wait, are you saying i DONT need a CEL to get a code?

How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

1987 - 1996 F150 - How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - The engine should be at normal operating temperature for all tests. Locate the self test connectors on the drivers side inner fender well. You can find these, by finding the one which looks similar to the shape of a house. Hook up with a...

www.f150forum.com

Ford OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

Scroll down on the second one and it wil define the codes.

 

[TwistedFish]

How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

1987 - 1996 F150 - How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - The engine should be at normal operating temperature for all tests. Locate the self test connectors on the drivers side inner fender well. You can find these, by finding the one which looks similar to the shape of a house. Hook up with a...

www.f150forum.com

Ford OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

Scroll down on the second one and it wil define the codes.

Right but like, i guess my question is: If something wrong with the truck would be readable through this method, wouldn't my check engine light be on? To clarify, if I used this method, I would assume nothing would come up, because I don't have a CEL on. Does my question make sense? Sorry, its just hard to word properly.

 

[Gazios]

Twisted:

Like *Centaurious* demonstrated, the codes can be pulled by using the Key-On Key Off method (KEKO)or read at

Also, just the fact that your coolant, which should be irredescent green/yellow at best looks like a chocolate milkshake spells IT OUT CONCLUSIVELY!!!!!!!!!

You should not drive it and if you don't believe me, get the opinion of a trusted mechanic, IMMEDIATELY!

You may get off easy but it doesn't take much to tip the scale the other way to set you up for a complete rebuild.

Sincerely,
Gaz

 

[Gazios]

Twisted:

There are hard CEL faults and soft CEL faults, not every code turns on your "check engine lamp", which by the way is just a little $0.03 bulb. You already know you have trouble;just not which specific, not using all available resources...your asking for it.

YOU HAVE OIL IN YOUR COOLANT; if your EXTREMELY lucky you do not have any coolant in your oil, which destroys the bearings, FAST!

 

[Centaurious]

If the Check Engine light does not light up when the key is turned to 'Run' it is either a bad bulb, a wiring problem, or an ECU problem. If it does light in the 'Run' position but it is off with the engine running that indicates that there is not a Major code but other codes can be stored that do not cause the Check Engine to light.

If your truck has no coolant, just water, for a while it will cause rust to form inside the engine and turn the water brown/rusty red. This is not good and can lead to a clogged radiator, damaged water pump, damaged hoses, clogged heater, damaged heater valve, damaged thermostat, etc.

Whether there is oil in the coolant or rust in the water you need to address this before driving it much

Leaking head gaskets, cracking early heads, leaking intake gaskets, failed ECU's, all manner of other problems are known to First Gen Explorer Owners. Most of us consider this a very good thing because they are all known problems with known answers that are not horribly expensive for the DIY'er to deal with. It costs us less than $100 to replace a timing chain. BMW V8 owners pay over $1000.

 

[allmyEXes]

How many miles did you say were on the engine?

 

[MrQ]

Wait, are you saying i DONT need a CEL to get a code?

Due to the very coarse sensor readings that OBD1 uses, you could have 10 problems all leading to the same symptom but the ECU may only kick out a code for one of them. Things have to be REALLY wrong for it to throw CEL. More abstract diagnostics on a first gen requires a voltmeter, this forum, various external diagnostic tools, and nightly sacrifices to the Ford gods. I have had issues that the codes told me one thing and the issue was another.

However, sometimes there are what are called "pending" codes. These are codes stored in the ECU that the system has not verified are actual issues yet even though something has occurred. The issue has to be repeated so many times before it will set. It's a way of preventing false-positives.

 

[410Fortune]

oil on threads is likely valve cover leaks...will not effect performance of your engine

You NEED to check all 6 spark plugs...you are looking at the tips of the plugs, the color, the condition

This engine NEEDS a compression TEST
ALSO
A cooling system pressure test is not a bad idea
We believe you may have a bad head gasket or cracked head........ because your coolant is brown. Usually It is either brown from oil, rust or brown from somebody adding head gasket "seal a leak" to your cooling system (chasing the same problem you are having)

 

[TwistedFish]

Twisted:

Like *Centaurious* demonstrated, the codes can be pulled by using the Key-On Key Off method (KEKO)or read at

Also, just the fact that your coolant, which should be irredescent green/yellow at best looks like a chocolate milkshake spells IT OUT CONCLUSIVELY!!!!!!!!!

You should not drive it and if you don't believe me, get the opinion of a trusted mechanic, IMMEDIATELY!

You may get off easy but it doesn't take much to tip the scale the other way to set you up for a complete rebuild.

Sincerely,
Gaz

No no I do believe you guys haha, I'll be sure to check for codes today, and I'll report back after! Thanks!

 

[TwistedFish]

If the Check Engine light does not light up when the key is turned to 'Run' it is either a bad bulb, a wiring problem, or an ECU problem. If it does light in the 'Run' position but it is off with the engine running that indicates that there is not a Major code but other codes can be stored that do not cause the Check Engine to light.

If your truck has no coolant, just water, for a while it will cause rust to form inside the engine and turn the water brown/rusty red. This is not good and can lead to a clogged radiator, damaged water pump, damaged hoses, clogged heater, damaged heater valve, damaged thermostat, etc.

Whether there is oil in the coolant or rust in the water you need to address this before driving it much

Leaking head gaskets, cracking early heads, leaking intake gaskets, failed ECU's, all manner of other problems are known to First Gen Explorer Owners. Most of us consider this a very good thing because they are all known problems with known answers that are not horribly expensive for the DIY'er to deal with. It costs us less than $100 to replace a timing chain. BMW V8 owners pay over $1000.

This all makes sense, I'll definitely look into it today after work. I do know the previous owner took it offroading a TON, and admitted to sucking up water into the engine. Maybe I'll get lucky and it it is just rust, but hopefully checking for codes and whatnot can give some clues.

 

[McFudden]

Hi all, I've been trying to use this ex as a learning experience for myself, as well as to eventually use as my daily driver. Obviously, for that to be the case, it needs to be running perfectly, and i shouldn't have to worry about it being a danger to myself or others. However, with this particular issue, I'm stumped.

The ole' rough idle. Ah yes, the very bane of my existence. Starts up rough when warm, idles rough no matter what i do, and (sometimes) will stall at stoplights, or long periods of idle.

What have I done to fix it? Well, i've replaced the positive battery cable, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the maf, replaced the ects, replaced sparkplugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, checked the large intake tube (plastic) for cracks, checked each vacuum line on the tree for leaks (done by plugging them simultaneously, this provided no change to the idle), and checked the iac (I unplugged it, and the engine slowly died).

At this point, the only things I HAVEN'T done, are replacing the MAF, replacing the pcv valve, replacing IAC (though it seems to be working fine), or anything relating to fuel.

Fortunately, it's annoyed me enough at this point to document it, so here's a video of a (warm) start.



Note, the oil guage ALWAYS reads high, and always "flickers" like that. When the idle is getting rough, the voltage meter also does this (because its about to stall).

Main points to take away here are the surging and rough idle. If anyone else notices anything that is ALSO an issue, or has any questions, please let me know.

Thanks in advance, and have a

yeahhhhhhhh. It's pretty gunked up, and definitely needs to be flushed. How can i really tell if oil is mixed in though? I've smelled it, and while it doesnt smell great (at all) it doesnt really smell like oil. But i could be wrong :/

Just replaced my IAC. It was idling like crap. Sometimes it would hesitate and take a couple of key turns to start. The RPMs would drop like crazy at a red light especially if the AC was on. I believe an explorer reads 60% as %100 open. Not that it matters. Here’s the deal. If the IAC gets gummed it hesitates. When the AC kicks on and it screams more air needed a message is sent to the IAC and a solenoid fires to open or close it. If it hesitates or drags it either won’t open enough and you get your rough idle or it tries to stall. An IAC is like $30. Replace it.

 

[TwistedFish]

How many miles did you say were on the engine?

Suprisingly (according to the title) there are only 68,000 original miles... the odometer hasn't flipped yet (to my knowledge) because the title doesn't say something about the mileage on the vehicle not being true.

 

[KM4IOC]

So when i give it gas, it still feels a little rough, but it (obviously) cant surge so theres not much worry for stalling. However, I have noticed (and this is unrelated) when going up inclines, after switching from 2nd to 3rd, or 3rd to 4th, for a brief moment when the RPMs are low, there's a loud and very noticeable "clunking" sound... Additionally, I've never really been able to drive it for long periods, because it starts to overheat, but I'm pretty sure that's just because I need to change out the radiator and it's hosing, since it's so old, the coolant doesn't look so good (very gummy and brown).

Possibly a cracked head, mine done the same thing (94) I had a cracked head and a hole the size of a dime in piston #1

 

[TwistedFish]

Just replaced my IAC. It was idling like crap. Sometimes it would hesitate and take a couple of key turns to start. The RPMs would drop like crazy at a red light especially if the AC was on. I believe an explorer reads 60% as %100 open. Not that it matters. Here’s the deal. If the IAC gets gummed it hesitates. When the AC kicks on and it screams more air needed a message is sent to the IAC and a solenoid fires to open or close it. If it hesitates or drags it either won’t open enough and you get your rough idle or it tries to stall. An IAC is like $30. Replace it.

Will do. Also, upon further inspection of the engine bay, it seems that the main "air intake hose" is sorta denigrated and often comes out of the air filter box... maybe that could cause some issues?

 

[TwistedFish]

Possibly a cracked head, mine done the same thing (94) I had a cracked head and a hole the size of a dime in piston #1

Niiiice, when I get off work today I'll check for codes... an issue like this would this show up, no? If not, how did you find out about yours? Thanks!

 

[McFudden]

It’s not that clear of audio but sounds like you got a valve knock. That would explain your whacky oil pressure. You may be on your way to a case of spun bearings.

 

[TwistedFish]

Due to the very coarse sensor readings that OBD1 uses, you could have 10 problems all leading to the same symptom but the ECU may only kick out a code for one of them. Things have to be REALLY wrong for it to throw CEL. More abstract diagnostics on a first gen requires a voltmeter, this forum, various external diagnostic tools, and nightly sacrifices to the Ford gods. I have had issues that the codes told me one thing and the issue was another.

However, sometimes there are what are called "pending" codes. These are codes stored in the ECU that the system has not verified are actual issues yet even though something has occurred. The issue has to be repeated so many times before it will set. It's a way of preventing false-positives.

I'll definitely check for codes as soon as I get off work today, thanks!

 

[TwistedFish]

oil on threads is likely valve cover leaks...will not effect performance of your engine

You NEED to check all 6 spark plugs...you are looking at the tips of the plugs, the color, the condition

This engine NEEDS a compression TEST
ALSO
A cooling system pressure test is not a bad idea
We believe you may have a bad head gasket or cracked head........ because your coolant is brown. Usually It is either brown from oil, rust or brown from somebody adding head gasket "seal a leak" to your cooling system (chasing the same problem you are having)

I replaced the plugs less than 50 miles ago, would the wear on them still show up? I'll look into a compression and cooling pressure test, but the tools for that seem to be a bit pricy haha. As stated somewhere above, the previous owner admitted to sucking water into the engine, so hopefully it's just rust? He didn't seem to take very good care of it, and alot of parts are just covered in red dirt.

 

[TwistedFish]

It’s not that clear of audio but sounds like you got a valve knock. That would explain your whacky oil pressure. You may be on your way to a case of spun bearings.

Interesting point! I assumed it was just some part rattling down near the suspension, but you're right, it could be something like a valve knock. Any ways to look into this more? Thanks!

 

[KM4IOC]

Niiiice, when I get off work today I'll check for codes... an issue like this would this show up, no? If not, how did you find out about yours? Thanks!

I was told head gaskets from a friend of mine so I bought a head gasket kit, and started tearing it down, the video I watched on YouTube show me how to find cracks in heads so that's how I know that's how I found the crackhead the hole in the Piston was obvious, my engine light has always been on. I have great solid oil pressure,

Niiiice, when I get off work today I'll check for codes... an issue like this would this show up, no? If not, how did you find out about yours? Thanks!