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Wanted 94 explorer start and stall problems

portcity2007

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1994 Ford Explorer
I have a 94 ford explorer 4wd. 213,000 miles. Has been giving me alot of trouble lately. replaced coilpack, spark plugs and wires, maf sensor, egr valve. replaced fuel filter bc car wouldn't accelerate uphill or drive at highway speeds. mechanic found lots of trash in old fuel filter. but did not fix problem. finally had fuel pump/strainer and fuel pump regulator replaced a month later (after still driving it under those conditions) and problem fixed. but only for 2 weeks. car would not crank all of a sudden. towed to ford dealer, told me i needed throttle position sensor and dpfe sensor (egr related). paid $625, fixed problem.

one week later, check engine light returns but keeps coming on and going off intermittedly. days later, car stalled while going through light. would not start, so i had it towed back to ford. it sat overnight bc they couldn't get to it right away. next morning, mechanic said it fired right up and i was able to pick it up and drive it home. next time i tried to drive it it hesitated after cranking with very rough idle. accelerated, and car sputtered but then smoothed out and drove fine. the next day i drove it no problem starting it or driving, but when i went into walmart and came back out it would not start. had it towed back to ford.

they couldn't get to it til the next morning bc of other customers. but he told me that it started right up and they left the engine running for an hour and found no codes when they did another diagnostic test. so obviously whatever the problem is, after the truck sits for a while, it goes away.

car was stalling as well as stop lights and screeching very loudly when i accelerated. had idler pulley and serpentine belt replaced and the noise went away and truck seemed to run better. but only for a couple of hours. stalled again and would not start unti hours later.

when it has not been driven, it will start right up. but sometimes it idles roughly then stalls suddenly. drives fine when on the highway but its just stalling and does not want to idle smoothly!

battery, starter, and alternator have all been tested and are fine! another sensor? vacuum leak? trash in my tank? more trash in fuel filter? any help into pointing towards the direction of my problem would be greatly appreciated.
 



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gmanpaint

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Sounds like a fuel issue to me. I would have the pressure tested with a cold start & a hot start.

Weak pressure will result in a no start.

When the pump was replaced, did they clean the tank out by chance?

If not, your filter might be clogged already, and/or the pump screen is clogged. Full tank usually keeps the screen clean from fuel swishing around.


Oh...$625 for a simple DPFE & TPS replacement is malarkey! You got ripped off if that's all they did for that charge.
 












Maginley

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1999 ford explorer xlt
what engine do you have in it? my 4.0 cammed was misfiring 2 cyl. coil pack was fried. it does stall sometimes and bogs down on light acceleration. i know my timing chain guide broke so it does wobble. your problem could be a over tightened chain or belt maybe? if mine was causing me that much trouble, id look into a new engine and swapping it in. deff considering a 5.0 swap myself.
 






Maginley

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1999 ford explorer xlt
Sounds like a fuel issue to me. I would have the pressure tested with a cold start & a hot start.

Weak pressure will result in a no start.

When the pump was replaced, did they clean the tank out by chance?

If not, your filter might be clogged already, and/or the pump screen is clogged. Full tank usually keeps the screen clean from fuel swishing around.


Oh...$625 for a simple DPFE & TPS replacement is malarkey! You got ripped off if that's all they did for that charge.

could also be garbage in your tank. maybe even sludge. also get your injectors looked at. my 99's were all sorts of gunked up. had em cleaned and highly noticable improvements
 












portcity2007

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what engine do you have in it? my 4.0 cammed was misfiring 2 cyl. coil pack was fried. it does stall sometimes and bogs down on light acceleration. i know my timing chain guide broke so it does wobble. your problem could be a over tightened chain or belt maybe? if mine was causing me that much trouble, id look into a new engine and swapping it in. deff considering a 5.0 swap myself.


4.0 engine. i know the problem is not spark related. It's the fuel. I cannot hear the pump turn on whenever i have this problem. replaced pump relay and engine control module. still no fix!
 






portcity2007

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Read the full thread here on relays and ECU (engine control unit or module) or PCM (powertrain control module) both the same I believe:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346213

This may do it for you. Good Luck


thanks for the post. i replaced engine control module. 5 minutes of driving it did fine, (same as usual when truck is working properly). went to the store, came back and started it and it idled very roughly and did not want to drive. cut it off and it would not restart. now i will have to wait a few hours just to start it and get it back to the house.
 






LukeDog3D

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I would check the idle air control valve first, and then the fuel pressure regulator. The IAC can give you all kinds of sporadic headaches and no-start conditions.

To check the fuel pressure regulator, throw a fuel pressure gauge on it when it is refusing to start (key on); see what kind of pressure you have.
 






GA150

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I'm going through this same problem with a buddy of mine's ranger right now. His problem seems to occur after the engine has warmed up, after say an hour drive. Once he turns it off there is about a hour to hour and a half window where it will not idle correctly and often stall out.

After a little research we decided to start with the simple and cheap. We had already checked fuel pressures, hot and cold, and ruled out fuel system issues. We replaced the ect (engine coolant temp.) sensor and so far the issue hasn't returned.

Apparently when the ECU thinks the engine is cold it dumps more fuel in, essentially a choke. Doing this on a hot engine will cause a rough idle and possibly a stall. After the engine cools down it will start a drive normally until you try to start up again from a hot start.

There is a way to test this sensor but for less than $20 it's just one of those things that you say "I'll just replace it anyway."
 






Maginley

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I finally fixed mine it was a spark issue. I had put in the cheapest plugs i could fond and the porcelain cracked so the the spark was shorting out to the engine block. Put new motocraft ones in and it tuns great also replaced the coilpak big difference.
 






portcity2007

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replaced ignition control module and engine coolant sensor and still no luck. car cranks and runs fine in the morning. but after driving more than 15 minutes it starts to buck. eventually stalls and won't start until several hours later after something has cooled down. battery acid is leaking from terminal too. battery light is on, on the dash, as well as abs and check engine light. cel light comes on after about 10 minutes of driving. but abs and battery light only illuminating when key is in "on" position and the vehicle is not cranked. please help guys. i've spent over $1200 in parts trying to figure out what is wrong.
 












alone

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clean all electric connections. Buy contact cleaner to be sure and do a good job. Some items are silver plated and they get tarnished which will give you risantance in conducting proper voltage. Low voltage will also cause items like transisters to heat up and cause malfuntions, and when they cool down will operate again.
 






MrShorty

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If the pump isn't running, that's a pretty good indication that something is wrong in the fuel pump circuit. I'd get a wiring diagram (even the one in Chiltons is adequate) and a voltmeter and start testing convenient points in the fuel pump circuit to locate the break.
 






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