sloop
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- June 14, 2008
- Messages
- 189
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- texas
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '95 xlt
95 4 door xlt 6 cyl ohv - build date 3/95 - vin number has an x in it - 157,000ish miles
when starting, the fuel pump does not turn on - this has only happened 3 times, the last time it would not start for a few days - seems to drive ok when it does start - each time this has happened, it was weeks/months apart - when it happens, there is no fuel pump relay switch click (and of course, the pump does not prime like it usually does)
i have the ford cd and done lots of reading here - tried a few things to isolate the problem
i checked the fuel pump fuse (it was good) and replaced the fuel pump relay - no change (no fuel pump priming) - i also checked the inertia cutoff - it was not tripped
read how to pull the codes using the cel light on here - did the koeo test
first code group
335 - pfe or dpfe sensor voltage out of self-test range
second code group (cm?)
172 - o2 indicates system lean left
176 - o2 indicates system lean right
while at the parts store, got new plugs, wires, air filter, seafoam, pcv valve, fuel filter, antifreeze, radiator flush, electrical contact cleaner and lucas fuel treatment
checked the fuse again - it started
seafoam through the pcv hose - little smoke
put in new air filter, pcv valve, plugs and plug wires, flushed ratiator, added some fuel treatment - noticed a broken belt tensioner so i replaced that assembly and put on a new belt
bought a fuel pressure tester - tested the pressure at the schrader valve
key on engine off at about 32 psi
key on engine running at about 24 psi
when i turn off the engine, the pressure bounces back up to 30-32 and settles at 24 - the pressure holds with the engine off
i don't have a multimeter and not sure how to use one if i did - but i will buy one if i need electrical measurements
i don't have jack stands or vacuum tester
called a garage chain here in the dallas area and asked for a ballpark figure on a fuel pump replacement - $750
fuel pressure seems low to me - i think spec is 30-45 psi - but the pressure holds after shutoff so the hoses must be solid
since it has only happened 3 times, seems like it must be electrical - and maybe a second problem of low pressure (one guy on here said the minimum pressure to stay running is about 25 psi)
a mechanic said the 172 and 176 cm codes might be related to the low pressure (running lean)
since i have had the ford, the cel light comes on ONLY on long road trips when using the cruise control - i suspect the 172 and 176 codes were stored when that happened - the cel light comes on after about 2 hours on the road - after the car rests, the cel light does not come back on until the next road trip using the cruise control
not excited about confessing this part but it is part of the vehicle history - i changed the radio to be powered on the accessory delay (probably not related) - i also installed the automatic mirror - one of the wires i tapped into was near the kick panel (i can't recall what it was or if it was fuel pump related - i think it was the backup lamp wire) - i used those 3m wire connectors that pierce the wire insulation and requires no splicing (which made me a little uneasy but i thought 'what the hey')
today i disconnected the negative battery terminal for about an hour to reset the computer - i drove it a FEW miles and retested - the koeo test passed (both with 111) and attempted the koer test (the instructions are fuzzy about the brake boo switch, turn the wheel, transmission o/d switch stuff - then wot for the goose test) but i tried it twice
3 flashes for 6 cyls
116 - ect out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts (might not be warm enough?)
326 - pfe or dpfe circuit voltage lower than expected with zero evr duty cycle
538 - insufficient rpm change during koer dynamic response test/ operator error (did not do the wot right i guess so no goose test)
632 - overdrive cancel switch not changing state (e4od) (found i have to press it twice)
i will try the koer tests again tomorrow - i think i found the instructions
from my reading, the fuel pressure regulator is seldom faulted in fuel delivery problems - but i wonder if it could be causing my low pressure reading - i will check the vacuum line tomorrow for gas (that part is only $100 and i can install it - lol)
could it be the computer (pcm or something like that)?
would a pressure reading with the pressure regulator vacuum tube removed be helpful?
i'm thinking i will need to know the voltage and resistence readings - would that help me isolate the problem?
the mechanic told me if the problem happened again, to bang on the fuel tank with a hammer - to see if that causes it to start
would i be better off taking it to a ford dealership and letting them take a stab at it? i am thinking $750 for a fuel pump replacement at a garage is on the high side - i am tempted to try it myself for that kinda money
that is all the info i can think of - any theories, observations or best guesses?
when starting, the fuel pump does not turn on - this has only happened 3 times, the last time it would not start for a few days - seems to drive ok when it does start - each time this has happened, it was weeks/months apart - when it happens, there is no fuel pump relay switch click (and of course, the pump does not prime like it usually does)
i have the ford cd and done lots of reading here - tried a few things to isolate the problem
i checked the fuel pump fuse (it was good) and replaced the fuel pump relay - no change (no fuel pump priming) - i also checked the inertia cutoff - it was not tripped
read how to pull the codes using the cel light on here - did the koeo test
first code group
335 - pfe or dpfe sensor voltage out of self-test range
second code group (cm?)
172 - o2 indicates system lean left
176 - o2 indicates system lean right
while at the parts store, got new plugs, wires, air filter, seafoam, pcv valve, fuel filter, antifreeze, radiator flush, electrical contact cleaner and lucas fuel treatment
checked the fuse again - it started
seafoam through the pcv hose - little smoke
put in new air filter, pcv valve, plugs and plug wires, flushed ratiator, added some fuel treatment - noticed a broken belt tensioner so i replaced that assembly and put on a new belt
bought a fuel pressure tester - tested the pressure at the schrader valve
key on engine off at about 32 psi
key on engine running at about 24 psi
when i turn off the engine, the pressure bounces back up to 30-32 and settles at 24 - the pressure holds with the engine off
i don't have a multimeter and not sure how to use one if i did - but i will buy one if i need electrical measurements
i don't have jack stands or vacuum tester
called a garage chain here in the dallas area and asked for a ballpark figure on a fuel pump replacement - $750
fuel pressure seems low to me - i think spec is 30-45 psi - but the pressure holds after shutoff so the hoses must be solid
since it has only happened 3 times, seems like it must be electrical - and maybe a second problem of low pressure (one guy on here said the minimum pressure to stay running is about 25 psi)
a mechanic said the 172 and 176 cm codes might be related to the low pressure (running lean)
since i have had the ford, the cel light comes on ONLY on long road trips when using the cruise control - i suspect the 172 and 176 codes were stored when that happened - the cel light comes on after about 2 hours on the road - after the car rests, the cel light does not come back on until the next road trip using the cruise control
not excited about confessing this part but it is part of the vehicle history - i changed the radio to be powered on the accessory delay (probably not related) - i also installed the automatic mirror - one of the wires i tapped into was near the kick panel (i can't recall what it was or if it was fuel pump related - i think it was the backup lamp wire) - i used those 3m wire connectors that pierce the wire insulation and requires no splicing (which made me a little uneasy but i thought 'what the hey')
today i disconnected the negative battery terminal for about an hour to reset the computer - i drove it a FEW miles and retested - the koeo test passed (both with 111) and attempted the koer test (the instructions are fuzzy about the brake boo switch, turn the wheel, transmission o/d switch stuff - then wot for the goose test) but i tried it twice
3 flashes for 6 cyls
116 - ect out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts (might not be warm enough?)
326 - pfe or dpfe circuit voltage lower than expected with zero evr duty cycle
538 - insufficient rpm change during koer dynamic response test/ operator error (did not do the wot right i guess so no goose test)
632 - overdrive cancel switch not changing state (e4od) (found i have to press it twice)
i will try the koer tests again tomorrow - i think i found the instructions
from my reading, the fuel pressure regulator is seldom faulted in fuel delivery problems - but i wonder if it could be causing my low pressure reading - i will check the vacuum line tomorrow for gas (that part is only $100 and i can install it - lol)
could it be the computer (pcm or something like that)?
would a pressure reading with the pressure regulator vacuum tube removed be helpful?
i'm thinking i will need to know the voltage and resistence readings - would that help me isolate the problem?
the mechanic told me if the problem happened again, to bang on the fuel tank with a hammer - to see if that causes it to start
would i be better off taking it to a ford dealership and letting them take a stab at it? i am thinking $750 for a fuel pump replacement at a garage is on the high side - i am tempted to try it myself for that kinda money
that is all the info i can think of - any theories, observations or best guesses?