97 5.0L Exp engine swap - trouble code

[Fraser]

First time poster, looking for a little help. I got my hands on a running 97 Explorer with a 5.0L/302, auto tranny and single speed transfer case (AWD) that had been rolled. I removed the engine, transmission, t-case and all the wiring, and put the engine (and wiring) in a rock buggy, bolted to a T-18 manual tranny and Dana 300 t-case. It's now running, but of course with the original auto tranny missing, the check engine light is on. I pulled the codes and found P0750, some transmission issue, which I expected. But also there was a P5507 which I haven't been able to diagnose, and that's why I'm posting. Anyone know the answer or have another source I can check?
If I find out the P5507 is also tranny related, then I'm not too worried, but I do want to know what it means.

With the exception of the two wiring connectors for the transmission (and all the other stuff I don't have like power windows, locks, mirrors, ABS, radio, hvac), everything else is connected (as far as I know), all four O2 sensors, charcoal canister, evap stuff, etc. While I'm still in diagnostic mode, even the original Explorer dash is still hooked up. All the gauges work except for the coolant temp, however the scanner picks up the coolant temp, about 203 after it's been running a while - could the lack of a reading on the gauge be a clue?

One other possible clue - my scanner showed a calculated load of about 40%, and that's at idle, around 700 rpm. I would expect the load to be about zero, or close to it. I checked vacuum and found about -18psi - seems ok to me, but not great, is that normal for these engines? It has about 130k miles on it, so I'm sure it has some wear.

It wouldn't surprise me to learn I'll need a computer from a manual tranny Explorer in the end. Was the Explorer ever offered from the factory with an OBD-II 5.0L and a 5-speed?

Lots of questions, may be in over my head a little. Thanks a lot for any insight.... Fraser

 

[410Fortune]

No the Explorer 5.0L ONLY came with the 4r70w automatic.

You will need to have your computer flashed to remove the transmission functions

There is no factory computer that will work, the explorer GT-40 5.0L is OBD-II, with DIS ignition, no other Ford with a 5.0L had that.

Sounds like a sweet project and a job well done if the only codes you are getting are trans codes.

The coolant temp gage should be pretty simple, its 1 wire directly from the sensor to the dash I believe.
The 5.0L has two coolant temp sensors, 1 for the dash gage and 1 for the computer, since your computer read 203 degrees it sounds like the sensor for the PCM is good

NOW LETS SEE SOME PICTURES!!!!!!

I would do more testing before I have my computer flashed, there may be other functions you want to remove, such as the load detection stuff you were talking about, I think this may be related to the computer as well, it is expecting to see a 4 speed auto with torque converter....

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, and you might want to set a different top speed. Speed of course suggests that it needs a sensor reading from the AWD TC, where have you got that wire at now? Interesting project, good luck.

 

[Fraser]

Thanks for the help guys. For the speed sensor, I got a pulse generator from Dakota Digital. It screws on to the transfer case where the original cable would go and has two wires coming out of it. I have the computer tricked into thinking the auto tranny is in Park so it allows the engine to be started. Since I haven't left the driveway yet, not sure what the computer will think of the tranny being in Park and the speed sensor actually detecting speed - could be another trouble code in my future. Maybe I can get around that by telling the computer the tranny is in Neutral instead of Park.
Incidently, I stopped in the local Ford dealer and asked about the P5507 trouble code - they had no idea.

 

[Fraser]

Making slow progress. I have discovered that the O2 sensors are not switching like they should, not making the nifty sine wave pattern on the scanner, they just stay at a constant setting even after operating temperature has been reached. What would cause this? I would expect to get a trouble code to give me clue, but maybe the scanner can't get past the illegal P5507 code. Is there a way to test an O2 sensor, either by checking for resistance between contacts or something like that?
Also, do all the ABS components need to be present to keep the engine computer happy?
Thanks.... Fraser

 

[410Fortune]

ABS is not a part of the engines computer
I have no ABS on my BII and I have a 98 5.0L PCM, engine and tranny

 

[Fraser]

Need help again, still...

I finally got past the P5507 code - I set the original Explorer auto tranny where the passenger seat would be (temporary for diagnostic purposes only) so I could connect the wiring harness, and no more strange code. This brings me to my first question... early on it was suggested I'll need to have the computer flashed since I'm not using the auto tranny any more - who can do this? And what information will they need?

Next, tackling the O2 issues - I upgraded my scanner software, and then got this message: "Due to a calibration error on this vehicle, this vehicle may not report O2 data accurately. If this is the case, you will require to use Ford proprietary protocols to accurately see this data." From the smell of the exhaust, it is running really rich and a little rough. However, the only DTCs are P0402 (EGR) and P0708 (tranny). Am I gonna have to see the Ford dealer on this one?

Next again, is there any reason for me to have the GEM connected? (donor vehicle was a 1997 5.0L AWD) The engine seems to run just the same with it either connected or not.

And finally, for now , I wasn't planning on using the original instrument cluster, but the alternator will not charge without the cluster plugged in. Apparently, the wire that goes to the cluster for the volt meter and the battery idiot light involves some magic that tells the alternator to do it's thing. Any easy way around that?

Thanks so much.... Fraser

 

[CDW6212R]

My guess is that either something is still confusing the PCM, or there is something wrong with the EGR or O2 sensors etc. If you knew that it ran perfectly before, then you could assume the O2 sensors to be good etc.

I would like to try another couple of O2 sensors and/or EGR valve. Double check the connections, I'm sure that you already have, and start planning for a new PCM program. Contact a couple of the PCM programmers, and ask them if they have heard of any of those codes or issues before. The swap is surely what has caused them, not individual parts. Good luck,

 

[cjones101812]

402 - unexpected flow detected at EGR Valve. check for vacuum at EGR at idle. should be Zero.

for the O2 problem, i would contact the manufacturer of the scanner. that sounds like their programming problem. are you using a Generic scanner??

Alt prob - the I/P has a 470 Ohm resistor in the wire for the alt. the LG/R wire from the ALT goes through the resistor and to fuse #15 7.5 Amp in Interior Fuse Panel (HOT in RUN & START)

 

[410Fortune]

the instrument cluster only has to be plugged in to charge the alternator because the voltage regulator in the alternator is opwered by the same wire that goes through your battery light, easily bypassed

No reason for the Gem module at all

Running rich is likely exhaust leaks or your EGR issue, could be a tuner issue

having the PCM flashed to remove the auto trans functions...not sure on that one but you may try some Mustang shops in your area or seek the help of some of th etuner experts on this forum

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the info CJ, the alternator circuit is very different in so many vehicles these days.

 

[Fraser]

Thanks for all the input guys.

CJ: the scanner I'm using is actually my laptop with a cable and software from Auto Enginuity. Gonna go check vacuum at the EGR next. There are no audible exhaust leaks.

410: glad to know I don't need the GEM, that's another mile and 10 pounds of wire I can pitch.

To bypass the IP to make the alternator work, can I hook up the LG/R wire to the Y wire from the interior 7.5A fuse #15 directly? Or do I need to include the 470 ohm resister too?

Thanks again, you guys are great!!

 

[Fraser]

Yep, vacuum at the EGR valve is zero at idle, both cold and warmed up. If I blip the throttle plate, vacuum jumps up for a split second, so I think that part is working correctly. Must be the EGR valve itself isn't seating well. I'll take it off and see if it can be cleaned, and if not, get a replacement.

 

[410Fortune]

the EGR valve I had on my donor drivetrain had a ripped diaphram, it was obvious as soon as I had it in my hand it would not move when I applied vacuum...then I spotted the rip.

Get the part number off it and take it with you many parts stores will tell you a different part # then what you need

 

[Fraser]

I removed the EGR and it had a lot of carbon build up. I scraped off as much as I could but still couldn't get it to fully seat. Got a new one and now no more EGR codes. Also replaced the two front O2 sensors. It is still running really rich and a little rough, but no trouble codes except for the one about the transmission. Any ideas what else to check?

Also, still looking for help about bypassing the dash and still having the alternator work. Should I make a direct connection or use the resistor? (see previous posts for details).

Thanks... Fraser

 

[CDW6212R]

I would just add that resistor in line as suggested, that would be best unless you needed the OEM gauge, I wouldn't.

How much will/might you do with the engine etc. later? If you will be close with it now, then start planning for a PCM tune, which will include removing the trans functions(CEL). Regards,

 

[Fraser]

No plans to do anything crazy with the engine, just leave it stock and hopefully reliable.

Got a wiring question now. Last night I was continuing work on the harness, removing wires I don't need and generally cleaning it up. I already cut out the ABS and the GEM, and everything I need seems to be working mostly ok (except for the running rich part). Then I discovered a LT Blue/White wire that I had cut on the firewall side and labelled as ABS. It passes through the firewall (black connector) to a factory heat-shrink connection which then branches off to more ABS, the GEM and (yikes!) the Date Link Connector. So my question, is this wire necessary? Did it really go to the ABS in the engine compartment, or did I somehow mislabel it? If I'm wrong, where should it go? The wiring diagram I have is not that great (Haynes manual), it doesn't show everything. Maybe this explains my scanner's trouble reading the O2 sensors? Thanks for any help, again.... Fraser

 

[cjones101812]

i show a LB/W wire (circuit 70) at the DLC Pin7 (ISO Link) coming from the GEM. also, connects to the ABS controller Pin 16 (Diagnostic Trigger Circuit), Automatic Ride control, Remote AntiTheift Personality Module, and AirBag Diag Monitor.

 

[410Fortune]

I removed that wire on my truck and many others similar to it, the 5.0L harness system is pretty friendly for conversions, meaning its easier then some to remove everything but the engine, trans and wer distribution from the harness, very straight forward

 

[Fraser]

ok, cool. When I saw it went to the DLC, I got very concerned. False alarm. Thanks guys.