97 Explorer Overhead Console Compass Board

[wcsd106]

Hello,

Does anyone have the same compass / temperature board that I do? It's not the one with the two 510 ohm resistors on it. It's a different board. See attached pictures.
I am needing the value of a surface mount capacitor (Yellow rectangle) from it, mine has one blown.

The part in question has been removed in this photo, but was located just to the left of the keyhole shaped hole on the right side of the photo. If you look just down from the legs of the LM29405, you'll see the two solder pads where the cap was removed.

Thanks

 

[koda2000]

It looks like your board may have a different resistor. The ones with the number "161" on them look like the 510's I've re-soldered on several of my Ex's.

That may not be an original board.

 

[wcsd106]

Those two resistors are fine. The problem is a blown capacitor. Hoping someone had this same board in theirs. I circled the location of the part.

 

[wcsd106]

Board has ford part number: f67f-19a548-ca if that helps.

 

[spannnumber72]

Where did you find the part number? I just pulled mine out today and was trying to find one but couldnt. Luckily googling brought me here. I think mine has a seperate problem than others though, the 161 resistors are solid and nothings loose. But, Theres an amber colored deposit of some sort on multiple connections on the board on mine, making me think something corroded or something. Im trying to upload a picture to show the amber substance. There is a leak somewhere in the vehicle that I havent found yet. Its only rained once since I bought it, and I'm not sure it was working before the rain.

 

[wcsd106]

The part number was located on the board. I don't recall where I found it. I ended up picking up a complete overhead console at the salvage yard this past weekend for a couple of bucks.. It was tan, but I moved the guts over to my original green housing.

If you can upload a pic, I'll do my best to help you out and I'm sure the other folks here will as well. It's a very nice community here.

 

[spannnumber72]

I think you can view these by opening in a separate tab

 

[spannnumber72]

I had contemplated getting one from the junkyard too, but I would run the same risk that you did. Maybe it wouldnt work, or maybe it would have another problem. I definitely dont want to pay teh dealers price though..

 

[koda2000]

The most common problem with these boards is that the 2 resistors need to be re-soldered. If you get one from the JY it's 50/50 whether this will be the case, but it's an easy repair. Most JY's will warranty their parts for a few dollars.

 

[spannnumber72]

I called the dealer and this part has been discontinued, so unless theres an aftermarket for it, Ill probably have to rely on the junkyard.

 

[J_C]

Can you solder? You can definitely get a suitable replacement capacitor from an electronics supply house like Digikey for around $1 plus a couple bucks shipping.
It's probably just used as a *generic* power supply decoupling capacitor. I can see the negative pad on it is going to ground but where does the thin trace leading to the left go? Okay I see it's connected to a diode on the voltage regulator input pin, so you'd going to need at least a 16V rated capacitor and maybe 10uF, 15uF... the exact value shouldn't be critical here, tantalum caps aren't used for timing circuits.

Digikey has thousands of capacitors. The following link drills down to a few dozen possibilities but I can't guess from here what physical dimensions it is. Measure what size you think the replacement needs to be and input that in Digikey's search parameters boxes, and choose sizes slightly larger and smaller if you don't get hits. If you have the option of picking the 20V or 25V rated capacitor over the 16V, if they offer those higher voltage ratings in a size that will fit the circuit board, do choose the higher voltage.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/capacitors/tantalum-capacitors/131082?k=tantalum+capacitor&k=&pkeyword=tantalum+capacitor&pv1989=0&FV=1c0002,1c00f3,380009,380010,380014,1140003,2dc155c,fff40002,fff8000a,34005d&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

However when all is said and done, that circuit might even run okay without that capacitor. I mean that there could be another component that failed and you only noticed the capacitor had because you tore into it and saw that. If it were me, since I have a bunch of various capacitors lying around, I'd tack a leaded electrolytic into that position to see if the circuit still works before paying Digikey or whoever the $4 to mail a capacitor, but I'm cheap.