How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

[Eric1971]

The last fixed worked for two years, now I have odd behavior again.

When I turn the key to ON (engine off), the display comes on just fine every time: everything on for half a second, blank for half a second, then proper display of temp and compass. However, when I start the engine and power is momentarily cut, the display comes back on with everything lit for about 60 seconds, then everything lit but flickering for 30 more seconds, then the "normal" blank for half a second, followed by proper display.

I tried the original fix, checking the solder points on the resistors and capacitors. Resistors test ok. Capacitors seem ok, though not entirely sure on those. The small cap seems to hold 5V but the two big caps are reading more like 80mV, as if they aren't charging. Still it confuses me that it ALWAYS works fine turning key to ON, but acts up on starting.

I even tried disconnecting the display when properly on for a moment to act like the engine start cutting power, but the display came right back on normally.

Any ideas?

 

[Wrath]

The last fixed worked for two years, now I have odd behavior again.

When I turn the key to ON (engine off), the display comes on just fine every time: everything on for half a second, blank for half a second, then proper display of temp and compass. However, when I start the engine and power is momentarily cut, the display comes back on with everything lit for about 60 seconds, then everything lit but flickering for 30 more seconds, then the "normal" blank for half a second, followed by proper display.

I tried the original fix, checking the solder points on the resistors and capacitors. Resistors test ok. Capacitors seem ok, though not entirely sure on those. The small cap seems to hold 5V but the two big caps are reading more like 80mV, as if they aren't charging. Still it confuses me that it ALWAYS works fine turning key to ON, but acts up on starting.

I even tried disconnecting the display when properly on for a moment to act like the engine start cutting power, but the display came right back on normally.

Any ideas?

Sounds like a cold solder joint. Component warms up and expands a bit, loses connection. I would go through with a soldering iron and just reflow all component solder spots. Chances are there's a hairline crack that is hard or impossible to see.

 

[Eric1971]

Following up with my solution. All the solders were triple-checked and fine. Two of the capacitors were leaky so I removed all 3, cleaned up the board and replaced them with new (Thanks Mouser.com!) and it's working like new now! You can see the black cap looks really bad. I was probably not very careful when originally resoldering the 161 resistor right next to it. Oops. The brown one is mostly leaking on the back but you can see some of the blackened PCB under it.

I'm not an electronics expert but tracing the paths it looks like there is both accessory power and "on" power running to the display, each with its own cap and that's why it was behaving differently when the engine was running.

 

[Turdle]

Ok, pretend the map lights melted the plastic wedge sockets so badly, the copper foils came out also.

Ideas needed , with pics if possible, for replacing map lights with LEDs. Not sure if new sockets would help.

 

[Pete Deering]

Following up with my solution. All the solders were triple-checked and fine. Two of the capacitors were leaky so I removed all 3, cleaned up the board and replaced them with new (Thanks Mouser.com!) and it's working like new now! You can see the black cap looks really bad. I was probably not very careful when originally resoldering the 161 resistor right next to it. Oops. The brown one is mostly leaking on the back but you can see some of the blackened PCB under it.

I'm not an electronics expert but tracing the paths it looks like there is both accessory power and "on" power running to the display, each with its own cap and that's why it was behaving differently when the engine was running.

View attachment 435069 View attachment 435070

? How did you clean up the pcb board? What did you uses?

 

[Eric1971]

? How did you clean up the pcb board? What did you uses?

Nothing fancy. 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. Some of the PCB coating was eaten off the traces but I opted not to try recoating it at this time. Still working perfectly.

 

[J_C]

Ok, pretend the map lights melted the plastic wedge sockets so badly, the copper foils came out also.

Ideas needed , with pics if possible, for replacing map lights with LEDs. Not sure if new sockets would help.

A) Get new console from junkyard

B) Get new sockets from an electronics supplier like Digikey, cut out clearance as needed, epoxy in place. If too difficult with liquid epoxy, use putty epoxy. Solder wires to it.

C) Screw or epoxy on a cut-to-fit, aluminum plate around 2mm thick, maximizing length and width that will fit. Screw or bolt LEDs with star plates on, using heatsink grease, solder wire to them with a series resistor for current limiting or a buck driver. Decide drive current based on size of plate, probably good for around 3W (~900mA). Example LED with star plate: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001905/6145300-cree-xp-g2-s2-3c-429lm-5000-5500k-led-emitter Example buck driver, one per LED: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...v-16v-925ma-constant-current-led-driver-board

If some of the PCB copper traces are bare after cleaning, a good (cheap) solution is coat the area with dollar store nail polish. It can also glue down loose (pulled up, if they aren't damaged too much and need a jumper wire to replace them) traces, then just put more on top to help hold the trace too, or coat with epoxy.