98 EB AWD,Keeper?

[Don Bohannon]

Ive been looking for answer to “click click “ under right dash when trying to adjust heat from AC. Seems forum says likely the air blender door. Hopefully pretty easy fix for my mechanic.

Bought this EB new, 98, has 5 liter V8 AWD. Has been well maintained. Took air ride out of service, replaced w normal running gear. Runs great . Recently had the symptoms of air blender door issue, heater only runs on full hot, despite attempt to adjust temperature. AC will not come on....blows full hot.

Anyway, looking around the forum seems opinions about this model, year and V8 engine is favorable as a keeper. I need to refurb the dimmer(have the forum post for that) and get my mechanic to look at Air blender door. I tend to buy new and drive’em w proper maintenance. I’m 20years in on this “unit” but circumspect about too many$ as it ages. Over the years it’s had plugs, wires, serpentine belt, new shocks struts and headlights. Seems like Air blender door is a worthwhile fix?

Interested in y’all opinion of this 20 year old Explorer.

BTW STILL have a 78 E150 Chatau full size van, that starts every time and runs well.... which I bought new. Stays in my barn....covered pick up truck w 3rd seat out. Not worth much but still goes to feed n seed stores ease

Thanks

Don

 

[410Fortune]

If the blower motor only runs on full then you likely need a new blower motor resistor in the heater box, engine side
1998 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Blower Motor Control Module / Resistor | RockAuto

Since yours is an Eddie Bauer and you have the electronic HVAC controller (EATC) you can also try a reset and check for any codes in the system
Hold "OFF and FLOOR" buttons at same time, then press "AUTOMATIC" to enter self diagnosis of EATC system



After you do this, then it is time to look at issues with the blend door or actuator opening and closing

 

[koda2000]

If you have the electronic automatic HVAC controls (AKA EATC) and your blower isn't working properly it could be your "blower module" (which is different than the blower motor resistor pictured above and is used on the manual HVAC controled models). As far as I am aware all Eddie Bauer models had the EATC HVAC controls.

The blower module is located in the same place as the blower resistor, but is electronically controlled by the EATC.

If you're getting a clicking behind the glove box, the problem is likely a stripped gear in the blend for actuator.

If your heating/cooling issue is a broken blend door, it is a huge job to replace the blend door as the entire dash must be removed from the vehicle. There is a "cheat" that can be done by cutting a hole in the heater box. Your "clicking" sounds to me more like a stripped blend door actuator, which isn't too hard to replace, but I hope your mechanic knows what he's doing because there are a few things he needs to know about replacing the EATC blend door actuator and the EATC actuator is different internally from the manual actuator, though they look the same externally.

Below find a link to a review I recently wrote on replacing my EATC blend door actuator with an inexpensive (around $12) Dorman unit.

Dorman 604-201 EATC Blend Door Actuator review

 

[410Fortune]

oh crap yes sorry you need the electronic group blower motor controller I posted wrong one! Thanks Koda!!

In the past MANY times I have just replaced the stripped nylon gear inside the bled door actuator instead of using a full dorman replacement actuator

 

[fast_dave]

Don Bohannon

Welcome to the forum!

If you're up to removing and refurbishing the dimmer switch (and are successful), then you can perform the actuator replacement no problemo. No need to fork over the $$$ to a mechanic to do it for you.

On a scale of 1-10, in my experience, a blend door actuator replacement could be categorized as a 5 = not that hard to do with a little patience and at max a 1 and 1/2 hours time frame set aside. It's a little tedious due to the cramped space and the size of the small machine screws but not hard at all. Tons of info on this forum - very well documented.

The hardest part of the actuator repair - if memory serves me correctly - is that there are 3 small machine thread screws holding in the actuator in place. They are either small metric heads (8mm or 10mm) or 5/16 or 7/16. They're small diameter and short length, and you will need access to small Metric/SAE open end/ closed end wrenches or 1/4 drive small sockets and ratchet.

2 of the screws holding the actuator in are easily seen/accessed, and the third one nearest the firewall is - for the most part - unseen and dealt with by "feel".

A common "problem" that I experienced, and have read on this forum is that most guys that perform the actuator swap out leave out the last screw nearest the firewall when installing the replacement actuator because getting that last screw IN is a real PITA (compared to getting it out).

Hope that helps, happy new year, and let us know how it goes!

 

[koda2000]

oh crap yes sorry you need the electronic group blower motor controller I posted wrong one! Thanks Koda!!

In the past MANY times I have just replaced the stripped nylon gear inside the bled door actuator instead of using a full dorman replacement actuator

Yes, swapping the stripped gear is an option, perhaps a better option than using the Dorman actuator, but so far my Dorman actuator is working fine despite the minor fitment issues. For $12 vs $56 for a Motorcraft actuator I wouldn't have I problem with stealing the gear out of the Dorman unit.

I'm planning on taking the removable Dorman-supplied plastic actuator base and try installing a reconditioned Motorcraft actuator I have on it and then try installing it into my daughter's Mountaineer to see if there's any advantage to using it. I don't believe there will be but who knows.

OP, the 3 small machine screws holding the actuator on are 5/16" socket or open end wrench. The one in the back is a real PITA to get out and almost impossible to reinstall with losing it. I don't bother with it any more. The front 2 screws hold the actuator in place just fine.

 

[Don Bohannon]

Yes, swapping the stripped gear is an option, perhaps a better option than using the Dorman actuator, but so far my Dorman actuator is working fine despite the minor fitment issues. For $12 vs $56 for a Motorcraft actuator I wouldn't have I problem with stealing the gear out of the Dorman unit.

I'm planning on taking the removable Dorman-supplied plastic actuator base and try installing a reconditioned Motorcraft actuator I have on it and then try installing it into my daughter's Mountaineer to see if there's any advantage to using it. I don't believe there will be but who knows.

OP, the 3 small machine screws holding the actuator on are 5/16" socket or open end wrench. The one in the back is a real PITA to get out and almost impossible to reinstall with losing it. I don't bother with it any more. The front 2 screws hold the actuator in place just fine.

Thanks

Ive been looking for answer to “click click “ under right dash when trying to adjust heat from AC. Seems forum says likely the air blender door. Hopefully pretty easy fix for my mechanic.

Bought this EB new, 98, has 5 liter V8 AWD. Has been well maintained. Took air ride out of service, replaced w normal running gear. Runs great . Recently had the symptoms of air blender door issue, heater only runs on full hot, despite attempt to adjust temperature. AC will not come on....blows full hot.

Anyway, looking around the forum seems opinions about this model, year and V8 engine is favorable as a keeper. I need to refurb the dimmer(have the forum post for that) and get my mechanic to look at Air blender door. I tend to buy new and drive’em w proper maintenance. I’m 20years in on this “unit” but circumspect about too many$ as it ages. Over the years it’s had plugs, wires, serpentine belt, new shocks struts and headlights. Seems like Air blender door is a worthwhile fix?

Interested in y’all opinion of this 20 year old Explorer.

BTW STILL have a 78 E150 Chatau full size van, that starts every time and runs well.... which I bought new. Stays in my barn....covered pick up truck w 3rd seat out. Not worth much but still goes to feed n seed stores ease

Thanks

Don

t

 

[Don Bohannon]

Thanks to all especially about test& reset
Of the autosystem.
If it takes removal of dash to fix ...well that’s an economic killer . The AC/HTR systems have worked so well for so long I’m hoping the reset w give codes and will recover
Just can’t drive it in FL and W GA in hot weather w/o AC
The car is st my farm right now
Have top notch shop here in GNV that will give me honest opinion on the fix, if reset doesn’t take

Thanks again everyone

Don

 

[410Fortune]

I have fixed many blend doors in the truck, only two we have replaced the entire HVAC box by removing the dash
The rest of the time we use mcgyver style fixes or cut the box open and install the new Dorman door

I use a multi tool to cut the box under the glove box just enough to slide the old door out, pry down on the lower pivot point to remove the stock broken door. Install the new dorman door from the bottom/new hole. Then file the edges of the cut plastic so its smooth and patch it back together with sheet plastic, silicon and duct tape (you can use epoxy) I like to be able to go back in there in the future if needed so silicon and duct tape work well for that.

Doing this has kept us from having to pull the dash and replace the HVAC box

 

[koda2000]

OP - Your mechanic may be "top notch" but he may not be an expert in the nuances of Gen II Explorer repairs. That's what this forum has to offer. Whatever he tells you, please run it by us before proceeding. As I said earlier, from your description of what you are experiencing, it sounds to me like you have a stripped blend door actuator, which if true is a relatively easy and inexpensive repair, of course we don't have the luxury of seeing exactly what's wrong, but I doubt there are many mechanics who have as much experience working on Explorers than you'll find in the collective knowledge you'll find here.

BTW - Dealing with auto mechanics can be tricky, because they have huge egos and hate being told that they're wrong, so thread lightly.

 

[fast_dave]

^^^^ and just saying - if they'r "slow" when you bring in your EX, accept the work for low $ value so as to keep working, and then suddenly become busy with high dollar value work, your Ex becomes a case of "lets get this outta' here"...

Many times your Ex comes back with more problems than it went in with - read it all the time on this forum (again - just saying...).

 

[Don Bohannon]

I’ll get on my head light, get upside down and “explore “ the area next weekend at farm.
I’ll report back

I’m always able to get something apart however returning it to service ....can be a problem

I really appreciate the replies and advice.
I’ll refer back to the thread

Thanks

 

[koda2000]

To see the actuator, empty your glove box, squeeze the sides in and you will be able to get the glove box to swing to the floor out of your way.

With the glove box down you will see the large black heater box clearly. On top of the box (in the center) you will see the blend door actuator. It is a small 'ish black plastic device (maybe 2.5" wide by 3/4" tall) with a wiring connector plugged into the front of it. Without removing and taking the actuator apart there really isn't anything more to see, but if you raise/lower the temp setting perhaps you can hear and feel where the clicking is coming from, If the actuator is making the clicking noise, there's a 98% chance the small worm gear inside has stripped. This is a super common issue. The actuator has a shaft that goes into a hole in the top of the heater box and the shaft connects to the heater blend door. When the blend door is rotated counter-clockwise you get heat. When the blend door is rotated clockwise you don't get heat (if the A/C is on) you get cold.

Sometimes the part of the blend door that the actuator connects to breaks, but when that happens you usually don't get a clicking sound, you just loose the ability to regulate heat and/or A/C.

Hears a link to the "5-min blend door replacement thread":
How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

 

[masospaghetti]

All three of my Explorers ended up with broken blend doors and i cut an access hole in the bottom of the heater box in all three.

It's not a fun job, space is limited and working semi-upside down is awkward. But it's way better than removing the whole dashboard (or throwing the truck away). I used a "hot knife" (basically a soldering iron with a blade attachment) that easily cut through the plastic. Eventually the door will fall out. I used RTV to glue the access door back into place. Six years later the blend door still works and the box doesn't leak.

But as others have said, its probably just the actuator - no cutting required.

Every time I go to the mechanic, it reminds me why I got handy and work on my own stuff, the prices are insane and I'm often unhappy with the results. Labor rates here are $160/hr now and part prices are often marked up 3-4x what you can get them for on Amazon...

 

[410Fortune]

I use a long high clearance 1/4" ratchet from Harbor freight with a shallow 5/16" socket and I can get the 3rd screw much much easier
1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Dual Head Ratchet

This one:

its slim design and length allow you to reach the head of the back screw more easily

 

[Don Bohannon]

OK guys, help me learn where the heAter box is. The car is not here so I’m handicapped in that can’t go look at it.

Again I’ll reread all this before I start getting surgical under the dash!
Like I said I’ll do the reset procedure first.

Again thanks for all the interest and support, especially last post about Harbor freight tool

Don