98 Explorer. very sad =[

[fordkid417]

i have a 98 ford explorer 4x4 XLT. i took it for a wheel alignment today, and asked the mechanic for an estimate on why the front end shook/ vibrated so bad. he drove out right out of the parking lot, and came back within 2 min. and specific words " im too scared to drive this thing".... come to find out i need

1. new front hub bearings x2. at 208.99 a wheel. 228 labor
2. new front lower ball joints 41.99 per side. 274 labor
3. cam kit 27.99.. 95 labor
4. Rack and pinion 132.99.. 294,50 labor


im pretty sure i can do the hub bearings myself. and possibly the ball joints but not quite sure because the have to pressed in.

he had my X on the lift, and you could literaly move the front wheels side to side and back and forth. he told me i could be driving home tonight and the front wheels could fall right off.

any input on what i should do? im 16 and make close to 400.00 every 2 weeks. so im looking around for the cheapest parts i can find. any help would be greatly greatlyyyyy appreciated

 

[$100horse]

i have a 98 ford explorer 4x4 XLT. i took it for a wheel alignment today, and asked the mechanic for an estimate on why the front end shook/ vibrated so bad. he drove out right out of the parking lot, and came back within 2 min. and specific words " im too scared to drive this thing".... come to find out i need

1. new front hub bearings x2. at 208.99 a wheel. 228 labor
2. new front lower ball joints 41.99 per side. 274 labor
3. cam kit 27.99.. 95 labor
4. Rack and pinion 132.99.. 294,50 labor


im pretty sure i can do the hub bearings myself. and possibly the ball joints but not quite sure because the have to pressed in.

he had my X on the lift, and you could literaly move the front wheels side to side and back and forth. he told me i could be driving home tonight and the front wheels could fall right off.

any input on what i should do? im 16 and make close to 400.00 every 2 weeks. so im looking around for the cheapest parts i can find. any help would be greatly greatlyyyyy appreciated

Get some tools, get a friend, get some money together, find a "U-Pull-It" type junk yard. Find out which years will match yours (1995-01?) and pull them off of one at a salvage yard.

This takes a little bit of know how and a decent, but not huge, set of tools. For specialty tools, like a ball joint separator, you can rent them at your local auto parts store.

I just did this on my Mustang and saved myself about $500 in parts and labor.

Take the entire hub/spindle. After you pull them off, have the bearings replaced. They're cheap and it's a good safety move.

 

[coonerboy]

I wouldn't go to a junkyard for those type of parts. They are normal wear type parts that should be replace with new ones.

Shop around at your local auto parts stores or search online if you want to do the work yourself. The wheel bearings a pretty easy job. I changed one side out in mine in around an hour.

The rack and pinion is not something I would want to tackle. From what I have heard its a Bit%$.

Do a search for ball joint replacement. There should be plenty of info on that here.

 

[my pos mounty]

I agree with coonerboy. These are not the type of parts to get at the junkyard. In all actuallity, these are not the kind of parts to find the "cheap ones" either. I suggest Moog suspension products and Timken bearings. I have purchased the "cheap" ones at Autozone and had them last a few WEEKS. (That was lower balljoints and tierod ends, 2 weeks and they were junk) I know it isnt easy to swallow, but spend to save applies here.
The steering rack may only be the inner tierod ends, way cheaper than a rack.

 

[96eb96]

I agree with coonerboy. These are not the type of parts to get at the junkyard. In all actuallity, these are not the kind of parts to find the "cheap ones" either. I suggest Moog suspension products and Timken bearings. I have purchased the "cheap" ones at Autozone and had them last a few WEEKS. (That was lower balljoints and tierod ends, 2 weeks and they were junk) I know it isnt easy to swallow, but spend to save applies here.
The steering rack may only be the inner tierod ends, way cheaper than a rack.

Yep, don't cheap out on suspension parts. Lots of people buy cheap suspension parts on ebay or whatever and then end up regretting it. In other fourms too people are always asking about ebay or cheap parts and a few weeks later they are posting DO NOT BUY <insert cheap parts>. Even if they give a lifetime warranty, do you want to reinstall that junk and do the work again?

Only Moog or Motorcraft parts for suspension.