98 SOHC runs for 3 sec. and dies. OBD codes included.

[Compucents]

My 98 Explorer seems to have a fuel problem. It has 175K miles and has been a super reliable car for the last 4 years. It started running very rough on the way home from work, I barely got the last 10 miles out of her to get to my driveway.

I took the easy route first and replaced the fuel filter, no results. I decided to change the spark plugs, wire set and air filter mostly because it was time anyway. What a nasty job to get the rear 2 plugs on the passenger side...uhg! After everything is installed now the truck starts right up and runs smoothly for about 3 seconds then dies out. Turn the key off and it will start right back up again for 3 seconds.

I bought an OBD 2 reader and below are the codes. These were stored form the "rough" ride home. I cleared the computer and now it runs and stalls, but no codes get stored.

DTC Codes:
P0442 - EVAP Control System Small Leak (0.040") Detected
P0301 thru P0306 - Misfire cylinder 1 thru 6

Pending Codes:
P0174 - Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 2)
P1151 - Lack of HO2S-21 Switching. HO2S Signal Low Input
P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switching. HO2S Signal Low Input


Freeze Frame Information:
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 42.19%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.0%
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 42.19%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.0%
Engine RPM 2,686 RPM
Vehicle Speed Sensor 30.45 MPH


I try not to do too much vehicle repair if I can help it so I don't have very many specialty tools (like a fuel pressure guage). I just wanted to see if this information meant anything specific towards the fuel pump, or fuel regulator? I read the voltage level is critical so I'm replacing both battery terminals tomorrow, maybe that will help?

Any help in deciphering these codes would be greatly appeciated.
Thanks

 

[Hunz]

It is most likely the fuel pump. Buy yourself a voltmeter and check the power to the fuel pump. The wiring harness is located on the driver side rear wheel well. reach up underneath the wheel well, helps if the tire is removed and car jacked up slighty, and you should feel where a connector is on the backside of the wheel well, undo do it probably will be stubborn from being in sam e position so long. the harness will have 3 holes on top and 4 on bottom. The top three are for the fuel gauge dont worry about them the bottom are for the fuel pump. With the three holes on top(facing the sky) the furthest one to your right is +(#4 hole) and #2 hole is your negative. shove the voltmeter ends in them with ignition turned. You should get 13.5v to 14.0. If not then you have a short form ECM(unlikely) or a bad ground. To check this run a continuity test with voltmeter to see if it is a complete circuit.
If you have power to wiring harness then your fuel pump is bad. I will almost guarantee this because I had the exact same probmlem(OBD codes and all)

 

[Turdle]

Check ALL OF YOUR FUSES!!!

especially fuse 13 in the power distribution panel under the hood--it's right there by the ac relay in the picture linked--

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180814&highlight=power+layout

 

[aldive]

Be sure to test the fuel presure.

Good luck .......

 

[Compucents]

Thanks for the suggestions, a voltmeter a do have and the fuse checks are simple enough. I'm still going to try and located a cheap fuel pressure gauge and verify the pressure before dropping the gas tank.

Thanks!!

 

[Hunz]

All fuel pumps will work when you take them out, but unless there isn't at least 35psi coming out of the test port on fuel rail test port then the injectors won't open up allowing the car to start. If you have restarted the car since then and it stumbles for a little bit then dies that's because when the ignition was on it built up enough pressure just to open the injectors up, but once the car requires more gas to keep running the bad fuel pump cant keep up.

 

[brewman]

if it's not the fuel pump/fuel restriction
normally vacuum leaks or a bad maf sensor could shoot those codes If the vehicle has anti thief there is also a relay that supplies the voltage to the fuel pump if you don't have voltage but the fuses are good.

Just for the heck of it, disconnect your negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes then hook it back up. See if it will start then?

 

[french-jeremy]

Hello,

I'am french, and i have an 98 SOHC it have 92 000miles / 148 000kms.

At cold start, it run fine.


But when the motor is hot, it start, go to 1500trs/min, and stop !

Only when the motor is hot !

And now, the check engine ligth is ON !

What can i do ??

Thank you.

( I have change, my 6 sparks, the IAC valve, the air filter )