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- February 2, 2002
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 Mountaineer AWD
I’m surprised it walked out at all. Removing those bolts has always been hell for me.
^ Seems a little odd to me too, would make me take a close look at the U-bolts on the springs to see if it looks like someone has swapped the springs and didn't finish the job (U bolt threads look like the nuts were taken off not too long ago).
Is the left rear sagging? That typically happens when they get to that age and would be a reason someone might swap the springs.
Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.comRK: MOOG R SERIES
The RK arms have OE fit and form geometry alignment, with pre-installed OE style bushings and most include the ball joints. However these ball joints are not serviceable like the CK arms.
The only way it’d effect the suspension parts would be if you had the factory air ride in the rear. I’m surprised it’s not obviously an Eddie Bauer. They are usually well badged.
Parts list looks good. Keep in mind Moog RK series control arm ball joints are not replaceable. (Post #8)
Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com
Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8708T | eBay
Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8710T | eBay
My 2000 XLT was optioned very well and was almost identical to my '01 Eddie Bauer. (Leather seating, power seats, Mach radio w/amp & sub woofer, 16" wheels, 5.0L V8, dual sun visors with lighted mirrors and Homelink, full console, carpeted OE floor and cargo mats, privacy glass, rear defroster, Auto-Light auto dimming rear view mirror, chrome trim around fog/driving lights, molded running boards and wheel flares, puddle light exterior mirrors). The only differences were steering wheel mounted radio and automatic HVAC controls, driver's message center and chrome rear bumper. I don't know why anyone wouldn't have not just bought the EB trim level rather than optioning an XLT this way.
Ford's ETIS site would tell you how your vehicle was originally built.
As far as alignment goes, "IF" the replacement parts have exactly the same geometry (which it might not be safe to assume if they are generic /Chinese made?), then there are only two components which require an alignment.
Left upper control arm, replacement will require an alignment.
Right upper control arm, if you get the entire one-piece replacement it will require alignment. If you get the smaller piece containing only the ball joint (not the main arm and no bushings) and mark the position of the old arm (note where the adjustment screw is positioned) then you should have (close enough to) the same caster angle which is all it adjusts. Again this depends on whether the replacement is geometrically identical to the stock part.
I'd just wait until you get the new tires, do the uppers, or both upper and lower, right before the drive to get them unless your ball joints are worn enough to be dangerous... don't want to lose a wheel+ from that.
@donaldsThe pebbles on the road
When I put anymore than thirty five pounds of pressure on the tires my wife tells me she can feel the road
When we put new tires on it it got way better
New oem shocks and now it rides like a new suv
All my suspension parts are new front and rear
Never did body mounts bc mine were fine
All that said she can still feel the road it is a suv ...one of the old good well built ones...