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99 Exploder

I’m surprised it walked out at all. Removing those bolts has always been hell for me.
 



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^ Seems a little odd to me too, would make me take a close look at the U-bolts on the springs to see if it looks like someone has swapped the springs and didn't finish the job (U bolt threads look like the nuts were taken off not too long ago).

Is the left rear sagging? That typically happens when they get to that age and would be a reason someone might swap the springs.
 






^ Seems a little odd to me too, would make me take a close look at the U-bolts on the springs to see if it looks like someone has swapped the springs and didn't finish the job (U bolt threads look like the nuts were taken off not too long ago).

Is the left rear sagging? That typically happens when they get to that age and would be a reason someone might swap the springs.

Nope, no noticeable sag. I'm going to jack it up and get a closer look at everything soon. I tightened up the nut that was there and replaced the other.

I haven't gotten a good look at the back end yet. Control arms, stabilizer bars etc and about all the rubber bushings I could see up front are bad so the rear is probably in bad shape too considering I get a lot of noise from the rear .
 






Motorcraft ashv875 front shocks X2
Motorcraft ashv992 rear shocks X2
Moog k700542 stabilizer bar links X2
Moog rk8708 left upper 1 piece control arm
Moog rk8710 right upper 2 piece control arm
Moog rk620319 left lower control arm
Moog rk620320 right lower control arm
Mevotech gk80139 rear link X2
New bolt/nut for leaf springs x2

Total: 415 shipped.

Checked my VIN and it comes back as an Eddie Beuer edition. Does that change anything as far as these parts are concerned? I haven't ran across anything that specifies it's for EB editions except the Mevotech suspension kit105 in rockauto. But it doesn't seem to contain anything that's different from the parts I've picked out.

Anyway, I think this list is what I'll start with for the suspension overhual. If anyone would be kind enough to look over it and make any suggestions that would be great. All of these part numbers and different fitments etc are confusing sometimes but I think I've got the right parts.
 






The only way it’d effect the suspension parts would be if you had the factory air ride in the rear. I’m surprised it’s not obviously an Eddie Bauer. They are usually well badged.
 






Parts list looks good. Keep in mind Moog RK series control arm ball joints are not replaceable. (Post #8)
RK: MOOG R SERIES

The RK arms have OE fit and form geometry alignment, with pre-installed OE style bushings and most include the ball joints. However these ball joints are not serviceable like the CK arms.
Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com


Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8708T | eBay

Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8710T | eBay
 






The only way it’d effect the suspension parts would be if you had the factory air ride in the rear. I’m surprised it’s not obviously an Eddie Bauer. They are usually well badged.

I thought the same thing. No signs of Eddie Bauer anywhere inside and the outside has been debadged and (poorly) painted. But this is what I get when I run the vin on the site suggested by someone earlier in this thread. I take it as it is one of the 4 listed models and the one with the asterix would be my trim? :
73j5sm.jpg
 












Lower ball joints are more prone to failure because they are load bearing. Unfortunately complete lower control arms are more difficult to replace. Strange thing is the upper control arm bushings tend to wear faster. They BOTH suffer premature boot failures although Moog completely redesigned their K8695T (K & CK Series) LOWERS with an almost "bootless" seal.

 






My 2000 XLT was optioned very well and was almost identical to my '01 Eddie Bauer. (Leather seating, power seats, Mach radio w/amp & sub woofer, 16" wheels, 5.0L V8, dual sun visors with lighted mirrors and Homelink, full console, carpeted OE floor and cargo mats, privacy glass, rear defroster, Auto-Light auto dimming rear view mirror, chrome trim around fog/driving lights, molded running boards and wheel flares, puddle light exterior mirrors). The only differences were steering wheel mounted radio and automatic HVAC controls, driver's message center and chrome rear bumper. I don't know why anyone wouldn't have not just bought the EB trim level rather than optioning an XLT this way.

Ford's ETIS site would tell you how your vehicle was originally built.
 






My 2000 XLT was optioned very well and was almost identical to my '01 Eddie Bauer. (Leather seating, power seats, Mach radio w/amp & sub woofer, 16" wheels, 5.0L V8, dual sun visors with lighted mirrors and Homelink, full console, carpeted OE floor and cargo mats, privacy glass, rear defroster, Auto-Light auto dimming rear view mirror, chrome trim around fog/driving lights, molded running boards and wheel flares, puddle light exterior mirrors). The only differences were steering wheel mounted radio and automatic HVAC controls, driver's message center and chrome rear bumper. I don't know why anyone wouldn't have not just bought the EB trim level rather than optioning an XLT this way.

Ford's ETIS site would tell you how your vehicle was originally built.

I must be totally misunderstanding that VIN website because my Explorer isn't well optioned. Cloth intererior etc etc... Didn't think it was an EB but that website made it seem like that's what what the VIN was pointing to.

The ETIS website says it's down and the only thing it did display is: Explorer/Mountaineer, 4.0 V6 OHV 12V EFI, Amazon Green.

The truck is currently white and I've seen no signs of green anywhere. Haha
 






If I had to guess I'd say you have an XLT. They typically don't come with many/any of the higher end options, but have more amenities than the lowly XLS and XL.
 






I got tired of the rattles and bad shocks so I let them bend me over at the local Autozone instead of ordering parts online... But I ended up with all 4 shocks, stabilizer bars, upper control arms and lower ball joints.

I got the shocks and stabilizer bars on. It was a pain but not terrible. My old shocks could be completely compressed by hand and had little to no spring back. Takes bumps better and generally a better ride.

Next up is the ball joints/control arms. Question is, is it absolutely necessary for a professional alignment after replacing these or can I get it back to where it's at by marking the positions of the control arm etc? Not too worried about tire wear as the tires are pretty worn as is and I'll be getting new tires soon and I'll make sure everything is up to par before putting the new tires on.
 






As far as alignment goes, "IF" the replacement parts have exactly the same geometry (which it might not be safe to assume if they are generic /Chinese made?), then there are only two components which require an alignment. Well, "only two" because you didn't mention replacing the tie rods which obviously would need a toe-in set correctly.

Left upper control arm, replacement will require an alignment. Both upper arms have bolts with offset washers on them which get positioned to set the alignment, no way to remove the arm without disturbing alignment.

Right upper control arm, if you get the entire one-piece replacement it will require alignment. If you get the smaller piece containing only the ball joint (not the main arm and no bushings) and mark the position of the old piece coming off (note where the adjustment screw is positioned) then you should have (close enough to) the same caster angle which is all it adjusts. Again this depends on whether the replacement is geometrically identical to the stock part.

I'd just wait until you get the new tires, do the uppers, or wait on the lowers too so you can do them both at the same time, right before the drive to get tires and the alignment, unless your ball joints are worn enough to be dangerous... don't want to lose a wheel+ from that.
 






As far as alignment goes, "IF" the replacement parts have exactly the same geometry (which it might not be safe to assume if they are generic /Chinese made?), then there are only two components which require an alignment.

Left upper control arm, replacement will require an alignment.

Right upper control arm, if you get the entire one-piece replacement it will require alignment. If you get the smaller piece containing only the ball joint (not the main arm and no bushings) and mark the position of the old arm (note where the adjustment screw is positioned) then you should have (close enough to) the same caster angle which is all it adjusts. Again this depends on whether the replacement is geometrically identical to the stock part.

I'd just wait until you get the new tires, do the uppers, or both upper and lower, right before the drive to get them unless your ball joints are worn enough to be dangerous... don't want to lose a wheel+ from that.

Thanks for the reply.

Well, the ball joints are terrible...that's why I was wondering if I could possibly get away with not getting an immediate alignment.

Would it be OK to replace the lower ball joints and wait for the upper control arms? Could that cause excessive wear on the new parts? I do have the smaller arm piece for the right side upper.

I know the uppers are pretty bad. I read or heard about the need for an alignment after buying all the parts but hoping maybe I could get things replaced this weekend and I won't be able to get an alignment immediately. But I guess if it's going to be dangerous, I have no choice but to wait.
 






Yes you can replace the lower BJs then wait, but since lower control arms come with BJs already in them, if you replace the lower arms later you are paying twice for BJs. Or you could just replace the bushings later if you have a press or excess elbow grease to do it without one.

I guess you could even get the lower control arms, press the BJs out and put them in the old lower control arms for now, but personally I would not do that because each time you swap the BJs you may end up enlarging the control arm hole they sit in.

It might depend on your (or prior owner's) environment and driving style, but IMO the bushings should normally last longer than the BJs.

Arguably with all the other parts old, it will move the lower BJs around a little more, but not enough to worry about. Impacts like potholes and speed bumps wear them out faster than anything else and would regardless of the rest being old or new.
 






Your alignment is sure to be off.
 






The pebbles on the road
When I put anymore than thirty five pounds of pressure on the tires my wife tells me she can feel the road
When we put new tires on it it got way better
New oem shocks and now it rides like a new suv

All my suspension parts are new front and rear
Never did body mounts bc mine were fine

All that said she can still feel the road it is a suv ...one of the old good well built ones...
@donalds
Gen 2s ride rather rough, no way around it. The torsion bars do not allow wide range of suspension travel and are stiff to begin with. Have had 2, a '96 and '99, both rode rough. IMO. imp
 






Like I said new tires and oem shocks

And a huge difference on dirt roads and highways not perfect but way better

Certainly better than old hard rubber and basically no shocks

But I did replace all. The rubber bushings upper control arms and lower control arms sway bar bushings and links
In the back leaf spring bushings shocks. damper sway bar bushing and end links all factory rubber style
All the rubber with the exception of body mounts they are still really soft

May be it's just the smooth nc roads but my ant has a chevy captiva and our truck is a better ride

I'm not saying it's a catty but it's like it was new and I will agree short suspension and torsion bars but a penny on the road don't make the suspension move that much that's where the shocks come in and oem is the best way to smooth out the pebbles in the road

Please correct me if I am wrong and explain why
 



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I think for the most part a shock is a shock, ride wise. They can be slightly softer, or slightly stiffer, but have to all be in the sae basic range or else the suspension would clap, or the shock would be too stiff and resist the suspensions movement.

I think the torsion bars are the ride limiting factor.
 






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