99 Exploder

[danno2944]

Any thoughts on the motocraft ball joint info on rock auto? The oversized bit..

 

[Mbrooks420]

They are a slightly larger OD to fit a worn control arm hole.

 

[danno2944]

You guys got me all paranoid about cheap parts. I cancelled the mevotek outer TRE's from rock, hopefully It works out. I will go with the proforged since they look good.

After reading a bit about rock auto and moog I am also skeptical of the qaulity of Moog parts and rock autos service. I always thought moog was well respected, after zooming on pictures the upper control arms the bushings do look really cheap...

Why is there two types solid/2 piece of right upper control arm?

Also it is Unreal there could be so many negative reviews on rock auto. I have ordered many times without an issue, but reading about knockoffs in name brand boxes and such is scary.

 

[danno2944]

Also the oe cam bolts on oe upper control arms... are they to be reused or are new ones to be purchased?

Read about these moog uppers causing issues with re alignment?

 

[danno2944]

I assumed the difference between the two moog control arms(k and t series I believe) was just the fact that the ball joint was replaceable, but there is clearly a difference in qaulity.

 

[swshawaii]

Parts list looks good. Keep in mind Moog RK series control arm ball joints are not replaceable. (Post #8)

Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com


Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8708T | eBay

Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8710T | eBay

There are only TWO Moog product lines for control arms. RK (service grade) and CK (premium aka Problem Solver which replaced the earlier "K" series. "T" is only a part number designation.

Tenneco (Federal-Mogul) who owns Moog also offers a lower priced "budget" or "economy" grade line known as the Quick Steer brand that RockAuto carries.

 

[danno2944]

Well I'm not overthinking it, I am worried about the economy parts failing obviously. I will see what they look like when they arrive, but I may be making my first return on these UCA's for the premiums...

Thanks for the info though, I have always been thourogh in specific parts to order through Rock which is why I guess I have never had a problem.

 

[swshawaii]

Any reservations ordering the Moog Problem Solvers from eBay I linked above? Not sure if you wanted the passenger side two piece K8710T or one piece K80068. $25.50 each including shipping is a fraction of the prices I've found. Seller also has a 100% eBay rating. I bought both Moog PS UCA's from eBay from different sellers about two years ago for around $50 each.

 

[J_C]

^ The price difference... makes me wonder. Maybe just old stock or surplus if it's a small time seller who sold their vehicle, but otherwise I wonder if it's just that generic K8710 designation where sometimes the Quick Steer, Ultra Power or Mevotech low end parts copy the partial Moog part #.

I know the listing reads Moog Problem Solver but it would be one of those deliberate-ignorance mistakes on the part of the seller.

Here's the same seller, showing a pic of a different Moog Problem Solver part with a blue grease boot and AFAIK, Moog has never offered a blue boot on their Problem Solver parts:

Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly - K-8710T | eBay

Here is a different seller using the same pic for the ebay K8710, for an Ultra Power version:
Meseta Superior Izq Explorer 1995-2003 K8708t Ultra Power - Bs. 19.547,45

One thing's for sure, the parts jungle is very annoying.

 

[swshawaii]

True, must be careful, especially on eBay. Both Moog UCA's I received were genuine Moog products. One included the original box, the other didn't but both included boots and hardware in sealed bags. IIRC, black dust boots were included with the OLDER "K" designated uppers.

moog k8710t - Google Search

 

[danno2944]

If it is too good to be true...you know the rest..

I try to stay away from eBay for that exact reasons shown above, I have been on eBay for some Toyota parts and have been bent over plenty of times.

The upsetting part is there is limited parts supply's in Canada, and all of the stores carry jobber brands completely inflated, grrr this world....

Basically the only good parts locally Is if I go to napa for premium, but very expensive here..and the napa jobber line is the same price as rock auto premium.

If I'm getting an alignment should I just get the one piece right UCA? Not understanding how this 1vs2 piece works?

 

[danno2944]

K8708T Control Arm from China manufacturer - Komins Auto Spare Parts Co.,Ltd.

That is I am sure just one of many suppliers of knock-offs that was easy to find in your basic google search.

 

[koda2000]

Whatever you buy, I would stick with the 2-piece RH upper control arm unless your UCA bushings are shot. The purpose for the 2-piece RH UCA is to provide additional adjustment for wheel alignment. A plus is that it's easy to change the outer part.

 

[swshawaii]

If it is too good to be true...you know the rest..

I try to stay away from eBay for that exact reasons shown above, I have been on eBay for some Toyota parts and have been bent over plenty of times.

The upsetting part is there is limited parts supply's in Canada, and all of the stores carry jobber brands completely inflated, grrr this world....

Basically the only good parts locally Is if I go to napa for premium, but very expensive here..and the napa jobber line is the same price as rock auto premium.

If I'm getting an alignment should I just get the one piece right UCA? Not understanding how this 1vs2 piece works?

You never mentioned living in Canada. Now I get it. 10 pages of opinions and info that may be useful below. Good luck.
Google Custom Search

 

[danno2944]

1999 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Tie Rod End | RockAuto

Just noticed the moog inner and outer tie rods on rock both have a different image of the part on the first 2 pages than on the 3rd photo, is this an example of bait n switch?

Moog also doesn't have economy parts in the tie rod ends, but they have the moog/quick steer brand for these parts and the pics look the same...interesting...

 

[CDW6212R]

I've only installed the one piece right UCA's. Ford made those to be sure a good alignment could be achieved. From what I've read, nobody has trouble getting a good caster amount with the one piece arms. I think that two piece was a built in poor manufacturing variances deal, just in case. When you go measuring the height of each fender, compare to others, different trucks, then do the same with chassis points, it's obvious they all vary a lot. I worry about being sure the chassis is square, I set the height of the LCA front bolts exactly the same side to side. I care about the fender height, but I do not adjust the torsion bars to fix that.

 

[danno2944]

Are the cam/castor bolts for the upper control arms usually reusable? I would assume so, I see the moog cam/castor bolt set has a zerk to grease the bolt.. is this bolt kit recommended for the use of the moog UCA as well?

Is a set of these bolts needed when replacing the two piece UCA to a one piece UCA?

 

[CDW6212R]

The OEM hardware is reusable, and very high quality. The camber bolts and washers etc, available from several brands, are only needed when the ride height is changed from stock. It's not related to the two piece UCA, that is only for additional caster.

I just got another Moog camber bolt/washer kit to try in my 99. The kit I used the first time didn't help me to get the ride height lowered. I had to let the alignment shop raise the truck enough to achieve enough camber, it's near stock height.

 

[danno2944]

Ok, thanks, now I just have to read some more about this passenger UCA and make a decision on which one to order. I will try and get a good look at the bushings.

I like the idea of a little less work in the two piece and the fact that it will keep the alignment proper (in theory) sounds better.
But changing the main bushings on one side only seems counterintuitive.

 

[CDW6212R]

The two piece design is helpful if you only need the BJ, due to say a split boot and the BJ dying young. If the truck seems to not eat tires and has no frame damage up front, I'd bet an alignment is no problem.

I was worried about my "new" 98 truck when I first got it, it had evidence of minor front radiator support damage. I got an alignment after only changing the differential and hubs. The control arms and TRE's weren't OEM, but well used. I didn't want to spend the money then knowing how I'd use the truck to begin with. 60k miles later. I have the parts ready to put on, the other parts have worked fine aside from one bad TRE.