A/C trouble...

[toughguy]

2000 EB, 5.0 195687miles last Sunday road trip to Vero beach, a/c running great...had truck up to 95mph and was smooth sailing, then noticed a/c cut out figured it was the WOT cut out. ok it was. left party started truck, my son said it was making a "funny" noise, got home and under the hood I hear "screaming" from the engine. open hood and I cannot place the noise....sounds like metal to metal grinding and it stunk real bad. I replace the idle pulley, and it was a bad bearing. but the noise was still there. I then noticed the a/c was off and the clutch was trying engage with the EATC off...as the engine was running it was trying to spin, I can spin the clutch with my hand with the engine off. what the hell happened ? now as I drive the noise it terrible, what do I do? thanks.

 

[SoHK_alumni]

Prolly time for a new a/c compressor, or at least maybe just a new a/c clutch and bearing assembly.

 

[koda2000]

Guessing the bearing in the A/C clutch is shot. I'd try replacing the clutch assembly before replacing the entire compressor. I've done two A/C clutches now, both at around 200k . The last one disintegrated in my hand once removed. They're pretty easy to change and run around $100. I bought my replacements from Advance, ordered on-line and used their discount code then picked up at store for around $80. Link below: It's a different clutch design than the OE assembly (a better design IMO).

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-new-ford-fs10-clutch-assembly-w-coil-47881/18891068-P?searchTerm=a/c+clutch

Tip: If you to install a new clutch assembly, remove the spacer washers from the old hub and install them in the new hub to avoid having to fiddle with the "air gap" adjustment.

 

[MAS Tequila]

The ac clutch is toast.

They cost about $75 from Discount Auto, and aren't too terribly difficult to replace.

Check out the archives for a write up or two.

 

[MAS Tequila]

I just changed my compressor, condenser, drier, o-tube, and lines.

Everything but the evaporator.

I was leaking refrigerant and when the clutch went....

It seamed like a good excuse.

Now I have ice cold AC and no leaks, it held 27" of vacuum for over 30 minutes.

Try just changing the clutch, it's a lot less involved, I've just about lost all of the bruises from trying to get into places we aren't supposed to fit into.

 

[toughguy]

thanks everybody.

 

[toughguy]

do I need any special tools for this job?

 

[koda2000]

You may need the tool to hold the clutch hub so you can remove the 8mm bolt in the center. I borrowed the tool from AutoZone to change the first one I replaced. The last one I replaced I did not need this tool. Other than that simple hand tools (snap ring/C-clip remover, pry bar/large screw driver, hammer, wrenches are all that's needed).

I can walk you through the job, but it's pretty simple. I just did the second one about 2 months ago.

 

[toughguy]

thank you Koda2000, I just ordered the part from advance, and will be doing the job tomorrow evening. is it safe to drive with it making all this noise? I need the truck for work, cant take the wife's 1999 EB, she going to go to doc.

 

[koda2000]

thank you Koda2000, I just ordered the part from advance, and will be doing the job tomorrow evening. is it safe to drive with it making all this noise? I need the truck for work, cant take the wife's 1999 EB, she going to go to doc.

It's hard to say if it leave you stranded. If possible, I'd drive something else tomorrow.

 

[toughguy]

gotcha, thank you.

 

[MAS Tequila]

I was able to hold the clutch with a long screwdriver.

The 8 mm bolt came loose very easily .

 

[koda2000]

I was able to hold the clutch with a long screwdriver.

The 8 mm bolt came loose very easily .

Oh, I was thinking it was a 10mm, but it is an 8mm. Ford loves those 8mm bolt heads. That bolt isn't very tight at all. It's just hard to hold the hub from turning. When reinstalling the bolt I like to put a little blue Loctite on it just for my peace of mind.

When I changed my last A/C clutch I was amazed that my A/C still worked, although noisily. The pulley bearing had spun in the pulley, melted the bearing seals, flung out its grease and the balls were falling out of it.

 

[MAS Tequila]

Sounds like mine.

 

[koda2000]

Sounds like mine.

Yeah, I knew the A/C clutch was making noise, but the OE clutches rattle when they get old because the rubber insulators on the 3 clutch posts disintegrate and fall out (that's what I don't like about the OE style clutch). I also replaced all my idler pulleys as the bearings all felt dry and some had a little lateral play. When I was all done I was dismayed that I still had a small squeak when the engine was first started and ended up having to replace the water pump too. Now all is quiet.

 

[toughguy]

update, just finished the job, the clutch was SHOT to Sh*T, the bearings inside the pulley were flying out when I pulled off the pulley. the coil was severely damaged. it was a PITA but its done and the a/c is friggin cold and I am happy. thank you everybody for your help, and thank you Koda2000 for your wisdom and knowledge. here's a pic of what I took out.

 

[koda2000]

Yup, that's about the way the last one I did looked. Your's is actually a bit worse. Just goes to show you that often everything is fine, until it ain't. Glad everything worked out for you.

 

[toughguy]

thank you.

 

[koda2000]

thank you.

You're welcome. Glad to help.