A4LD shifting issue

[Naasau]

Alright, this is as simple as it sounds, my tranny decided earlier today that it no longer likes 3rd gear, and refuses to shift up. Switching from drive to overdrive makes no difference, and I need my truck for work.

I think the transmission is the original and has 298,000 miles, and counting.

 

[Naasau]

Well, I was able to finally get her home, and post on a real computer. Turns out that it wasn't just the 2nd to 3rd shift that was going, but anything above 1st gear. Here's the odd part, if I stomp on the gas, then let off the throttle, it will shift -only- after I reapply the gas, gently.

Since I was searching earlier for a more specific issue, I didn't find anything, but now that I know that it is a all gears above 1 issue, I have a feeling that the search button will be a bit more friendly with me.

 

[wood1]

Hmmm, sounds like the governor is acting up. Can you manually shift up through the gears? Have you ever done any work to your transmission?

 

[arco777]

I agree with Wood1, sounds like the governor. Also the vacuum modulator has to be working properly to shift at the right time out of 1st.

Like Wood1 asked, can you manually engage 2nd?

Check fluid level, check vac modulator, and it couldn't hurt to re-adjust your bands. Sometimes they break and you'd notice during the adjustment procedure if a band was broken.

 

[wood1]

Good advice there. I would (and did) rebuild the valve body too. If you don't have any real problems you can keep the old beast running for a while longer. Besides, if you do have to rebuild you will want to rebuild the VB anyway. I also installed an inline filter to catch the smaller particles the transmission filter won't catch. Also only use the Fram Dacron filter.

 

[Naasau]

Nope, I haven't ever worked on my auto tranny... until this last week. I did pull the pan and do another flush, replaced the filter and added a drain plug as well as a temp gauge. I actually ended up dropping the pan twice, so the fluid is nice and clean now. I also checked the vacuum modulator, and oddly enough replacing it did help somewhat, and the vacuum is at 16 at idle, is that good?

As for manually shifting, please pretend that I'm very, very stupid (shouldn't be too hard) and explain what you might mean. I've used the manual selector to downshift, but it seems like it isn't a 'hard' selector, meaning that it limits the top gear that the auto can use, but not the bottom. Is that in any way correct?

 

[arco777]

Nope, I haven't ever worked on my auto tranny... until this last week. I did pull the pan and do another flush, replaced the filter and added a drain plug as well as a temp gauge. I actually ended up dropping the pan twice, so the fluid is nice and clean now. I also checked the vacuum modulator, and oddly enough replacing it did help somewhat, and the vacuum is at 16 at idle, is that good?

As for manually shifting, please pretend that I'm very, very stupid (shouldn't be too hard) and explain what you might mean. I've used the manual selector to downshift, but it seems like it isn't a 'hard' selector, meaning that it limits the top gear that the auto can use, but not the bottom. Is that in any way correct?

The vac mod and governor work together; sounds like your governor is definitely sticking. A new or properly working vac mod will help alleviate a governor issue but not solve it completely. A sticking governor tends to stick more when the fluid is cold. But if yours is seized it may not want to shift at all. You should still be able to manually select 2nd gear though, and then shift to Drive to allow automatic upshift to third after winding it up.

Governors can be replaced on a 2WD without too much trouble, but on a 4WD you'd probably need to drop the t-case.

When putting the shifter in 1 or in 2, it should start in that gear and stay in that gear. If you're in 2, it should never leave 2nd gear from a standing stop to bouncing off the rev limiter.

Have to tried recalibrating your shift linkage? I can send you an email with pictures I took and instructions on how to do it; it's real easy and takes about 5 minutes.

 

[wood1]

So, start out in 1st gear (select 1 with the shifter), when you get moving shift it into 2nd gear, then third after another few moments. If it shifts fine when you move the shifter then you likely need to replace the governor. Easy to do, remove the transfer case, two 10mm bolts with a 1/4 extention, Bob's your uncle. Get the heavier governor weight from Sonnax, makes it shift a little earlier, I like it.

Glacier has a how-to, I strongly suggest it. As all of his threads, it rocks.

 

[Naasau]

Well, that is strange. I've had my X since 2004 and the manual selection works like you described for engine breaking, but when in '2' from a stop she's always auto-shifted to 1st then back up. I'm now guessing that this is a bad thing?

 

[Naasau]

Awesome, I did look up the how to. And yes, glacier is amazing.

 

[Naasau]

One thing that I've noticed while wandering around with her pseudo-normal shifting and new temp gauge is that unlike TBars report, my temp keeps climbing towards and up and over 200*... so now I'm wondering if my radiator is blocked, and fluid pressure is all screwed up because of it.

So, step one I think will be to pull that thing (I had to replace it a month or so ago as my old one started bleeding) and do a better flush and clean. When I pulled it from the yard the fluid looked good, and to be sure I did a gravity flush with new ATF before installation, but now I'm paranoid. I figure that is an easier diagnostic step before I get a new governor and drop the transfer case.

 

[Naasau]

I'm also guessing that recalibrating the shift linkage is more than just checking cable tension? But when I had the pan dropped I did cycle the lever repeatedly to insure proper temp probe placement, I didn't see anything funny or loose while doing so, so I'm working under the assumption that the linkage is operating properly.

 

[wood1]

Sorry for not responding earlier, internet has been out for a couple days...

If you want to keep this transmission and aren't planning on a 5 sp swap, you should do the following (my opinion mind you...)
- rebuild or replace your VB with a Central Valve Bodies rebuild. They do all the Sonnax upgrades and warranty their stuff. I rebuilt mine, which I enjoyed, but if that is a bit much for you go with the rebuilt one. Easy.
- adjust your bands. Sooner the better. Higher temps means there is some amount of slippage or your cooler is plugged up. Mind you, I am not sure how a cooler would plug up on you if you haven't had a trans blow up on you and you didn't replace the cooler etc...
- get a large aftermarket cooler (can't remember if you already did this). I have two stacked plate type coolers, in series with the factory cooler (in the rad) I also installed an external filter. This is a great idea to increase the life span of the A4LD as small particles are very bad for this transmission.
- adjust the kickdown cable. There is an adjuster on the firewall, push in the button on it, you may have to spray some WD40 or something similar to free it up, keep playing with it. Push in, pull the cable slightly, get inside and floor the skinny pedal (engine off he he) and you are done.

That's what comes to mind. There are two shift kits that Glacier used in his rebuild and I follow it to the letter. There are a couple holes drilled a little larger to increase line pressure, a spring you add to the governor to help prevent it from sticking, lots of little improvements. Not sure if CVB uses those kits so you could check with them if you want to go that way.

I'm probably missing something but will reread this on my days off, I am basically walking out the door to work again, so if you don't hear from me for a couple days that's why.

Good luck!

 

[Naasau]

Well wood, I'm actually quite torn. I like the A4LD, and despite it's reputation I've never had a complaint until now. I also find that towing with it is much easier than with my wife's manual, and it seems to absorb the new tire size much better than a manual would (I assume... and by that I mean I still haven't regeared from my stock 3.73 open diffs.).

So those are the pro's. The cons would be that I can't afford the downtime that a full frankentranny rebuild would require (though I like the challenge) and I don't possess the funds to have someone else do it. So, it looks like if doing a governor swap doesn't do the trick, I might be forced to start hunting down a junkyard manual simply because of the cost. I can yank one myself with all the requisite componentry for under 200$.

What thinks ye of the experience and wisdom?

 

[gmanpaint]

Sounds like a busted band to me. Have you attempted to adjust them yet? If you feel no resistance at all in the bolts, it be broke-ed to shizz.

They like to break at the clips, and sometimes the clips fall into the pan when you turn the adjuster bolts. Listen carefully for a plop plop fizz fizz when doing so

 

[Naasau]

Just pray with me that it is the governor ... cause I've not yet figured out how to even adjust the bands. :-(

 

[wood1]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158160

A thread by both BB and Glacier. Very informative and easy to follow. You can literally do a band adjustment in 5 minutes. Just be sure to not unscrew the adjuster stud. Very important! Hold the stud stationary while you back off the locknut, screw the adjuster stud all the way in, tighten to 10 foot lbs, (wrist tight with a wrench) then out 2 full turns. Tighten the locknut and that is it for that band. Repeat one more time and you are done. You should replace the locknuts with new but I didn't as I did not tear the seals on the nuts. If you tear them and do not have new nuts you can probably get away with some sillycone... A good quality black RTV silicone would probably do it.

 

[wood1]

Should say also that changing the VB is not a big deal either. But (big but) your transmission has a best before date. With that kind of mileage it's days are numbered. If you want to do the stuff I listed you should probably be getting a core ready to rebuild to have for when yours dies. If you have a broken band (easily diagnosed by doing the band adjustment) it will require a rebuild.

When you adjust your bands (your next logical move) if when you screw the adjustment studs in, they keep on turning forever, your band has broken, or the anchor has dropped into the pan. Really either situation requires a tear down.

And 16 inches of vacuum is good.

Good luck dude.

 

[Naasau]

I was just looking things over after work and realized that I never closed this out. The band was indeed blown, in the worst way.

Since I don't have the time or money to do the frankentranny rebuild, I've opted for the conversion to the M5OD. I'm sure that this decision will cost me more than i think, and that afterwards I'll need to push up my regear timetable, but such is life.

 

[Naasau]

Thanks guys for all the advice, patience, and help! I really appreciate it.