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AC Blower Problem

flyncasafo

Member
Joined
April 20, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Syracuse, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 EB
I have a 2000 EB with the electronic AC/Heater controls. The blower will only blow high or not at all. What has failed and what do I need to fix it?

Thanks
 



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Go look about 4 o:clock on the blower housing under hood-passenger side.
The plug you see there is attatched with 2 screws. Unplug connector, remove the screws and pull the blower motor resistor out, bet it is bad-maybe burned?
 






I purchased the resistor from the local Ford house and could not find where it should go. I will start with your suggestion. Thanks
 






Go back to the dealership and purchase the pig-tail also. The resistor pack connector is exposed to the elements. Moisture gets in there and corrodes the terminals. The corrosion causes a hot-spot, and can melt the connector and burn the insulation off the wires.

542998.jpg


542997.jpg


543038.jpg


543039.jpg


The replacement just splices in, and the resistor pack only has two screws holding it into the blower housing.

590088.jpg


It's easier to remove the resistors if you remove the screw holding the cruise control servo and lay it out of the way. Cut the wires back to where you have a good connection, then splice, solder, and shrink-tube the connections to keep them weather-tight. (I had to cut back 9" of wire to get to good copper thanks to the corrosion that had oxidized the copper up inside the insulation).

Then, before you reinstall everything, I sealed-up the outside of the plug with some copious amounts of silicone, and applied a liberal coating of dielectric grease to the face of the connector and the pins on the resistor pack. It should out-last the vehicle now. :)

-Joe
 






Go back to the dealership and purchase the pig-tail also. The resistor pack connector is exposed to the elements. Moisture gets in there and corrodes the terminals. The corrosion causes a hot-spot, and can melt the connector and burn the insulation off the wires.

542998.jpg


542997.jpg


543038.jpg


543039.jpg


The replacement just splices in, and the resistor pack only has two screws holding it into the blower housing.

590088.jpg


It's easier to remove the resistors if you remove the screw holding the cruise control servo and lay it out of the way. Cut the wires back to where you have a good connection, then splice, solder, and shrink-tube the connections to keep them weather-tight. (I had to cut back 9" of wire to get to good copper thanks to the corrosion that had oxidized the copper up inside the insulation).

Then, before you reinstall everything, I sealed-up the outside of the plug with some copious amounts of silicone, and applied a liberal coating of dielectric grease to the face of the connector and the pins on the resistor pack. It should out-last the vehicle now. :)

-Joe
Can you please upload the pictures again, I have the same issue.
 






The automatic electronic temp control (EATC) HVAC system uses a blower motor module to control fan speed. It's an electronic version of a blower resistor. It's located in the same place as the blower resistor (as said at 4:00 position of the blower motor housing, under the hood). It could be the module is burned out, but start by unplugging it and checking the electrical contacts on the plug and module. They can get burned/pitted.
 






Can you please upload the pictures again, I have the same issue.
Heh, that was 14 years ago... gijoecam hasn't posted in 4 years so unless he's subscribed to this topic, you might have better luck sending him a PM (if he has email notifications set).

Wait. A little sleuthing and I found the pics. They're all on this album page, 6 pics #5 through 10:
fordtruckworld.com Forums, Social Media Community, Photos, and News
Edit: These are the same pics I've added to my next post.

When you unplug the connector to the resistor/transistor module, you can use a flashlight to look in the connector to see if it looks bad, and if you're ambitious there is probably a plastic lock-insert that if pulled out, will release the contacts so you can examine them, and the ends of the wires where they connect, more closely.

Back when my resistor module went out, the wires and connectors didn't have any trace of a problem and are (AFAIK, it still works...) still fine several years later. For that reason I would assume the transistor module is bad and replace that, only looking at the wiring (more than a casual glance, as you should see if there is anything molten or charred like in the pictures) if it continues to be an issue.

Note I've used both the words resistor and transistor. As Koda mentioned, these are two different modules depending on whether you have EATC and need the transistor version or manual climate control with the resistor version. gijoecam had, and pictured (based on the F57H19A706BA part # stamped on it) the manual climate control, resistor version.
 






Since gijoecam originally posted these pics for us, and they're only failing to load due to site changes at fordtruckworld.com, I'm taking the liberty of reposting them in case further changes cause them to be lost forever...

1072788.jpg
1072789.jpg
1072790.jpg
1072791.jpg
1072792.jpg
1072793.jpg
 






Yeah, if you modules electrical connections look like these... I'd say you'd have found your problem.
1597257010757.png
 






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