acts like the fuel pump, must be the fuel pump, right?

[3xowner]

well I made it through the winter barely this time as many times I had to bang on the tank with with rubber mallet... and parked inclined each time

I am not too savvy when it comes down to electronic diagnostics, but everything is pointing to a fuel pump from what I read..

background...
2000 EB with 4.0 SOHC, option of 21 gal tank, and 4.10 axle tow package... never had a starting / runability issue (other than IAC needing cleaned years earlier) until I ran empty parked on a decline in late Oct 2014 and then 2 days I let it sit for 2 months... all within 63 days during the winter (lows of 45 in SoCAL in Jan)...

I came back in Jan 2015 and it would not start... (charged the battery and system up) then had a Ford guy came by it hooked up an advanced scanner and "sent 14 volts to the pump"... it started and really did not have an issue really again until the next time again 10 months later as I left the country for 2 months In Oct 2015 ... again during winter (lows of only 35-40). Again after returning in Jan 2016 charged up but still crank no start....no fuel pump sounds. Had a few intermediate issues, maybe 3 until it got warm again and it ran like a champ for 8 more months...

however now during the 3rd winter time frame... I did not leave the country in the fall of 2016 yet as it started to dip below 55 degrees, i had constant yet intermittent issues. never knew if the thing would start... it was a constant fear each time I walked out to the SUV if it would start or not... chances were 25% of the time it would... else it was a pound the tank... then listen

now things are getting warmer... above 55 all day I have not had an issue in about 7 weeks

 

[koda2000]

Replace your fuel pump. It's worn out.

 

[3xowner]

So in doing the pump, i guess you mean the whole assembly?
I do see various ideas of replacing the whole sending unit / pump assembly yet I do see some ideas of just the pump alone.

I appreciate staying with OEM parts, but via Ford, the price is outrageous.... however fordparts online just sucks.
seems the assembly is part number xl2z9h307a which is $491 at fordparts. My dealer says that most likely includes the top wide ring gasket (fuel pump mounting gasket). Seems the assembly details show that the Part Description: (Fuel Pump And Sender Asy. - Tank Unit - Gas) 112'' WB without Flex Fuel FROM 2/1/2000 and later

Rockauto has it for $290... MOTORCRAFT PFS1005 {#XL2Z9H307A}

but still, does it seem like I can get away with just replacing the pump motor itself based on my description? My sending unit/ gauge has always been exact on. Being I have the larger tank option, 21 gallons, i dont want to get the gauge change at all on me. I had seen issues on gauges with a Carter made FPS assembly, that is just plan wrong of 1/4 showing yet it was near empty.

I'd just rather save like $240 and buy one for under $50 that is really great quality and put that $240 towards a new set of tires that I will need later this year.

If so, is what is the best alternative pump only manufacturer and part for this? I dont want to crimp wire, just hope to remove old, plug in the new, replace the sock filter, mounting gasket, and fuel filter, and reassemble.

Thanks !

 

[koda2000]

If there's nothing wrong with your fuel gauge readings, or in-tank fuel pressure regulator (which typically there isn't) there's no point in changing the entire assembly, you may do more harm than good if the quality or calibration of the new fuel gauge sender is not as good as your OE sender.

Also, if you just replace the pump part of the assembly it will also cost you much less than replacing the complete assembly and you don't need to disconnect the fuel line from the assembly. Which can be very difficult to release.

I typically buy Bosch fuel pumps off eBay along with a new filter and strainer sock. Everything usually runs around $80 or so. I've replaced 6 of these fuel pumps on 6 different Explorers/Mountaineers over the past 3 years. I've been totally satisfied with the results. No issues whatsoever.

IIRC the Bosch part number for your truck is 68128 (same as most of mine). It comes with everything you need except the fuel filter and strainer sock. New hoses, hose clamps, plug and play jumper wire to convert from thin to thick electrical terminals and a pump insulator (you will not need the large o-ring gaskets). The pump kit alone runs around $50-$60. A new fuel filter and strainer sock, around $20-$25.

Here's a link. Prices and shipping vary. Look for the best price with free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fu...m4b0bd2ba6b:m:mDyjvkKxZV_O6_K1FpYiOGg&vxp=mtr

 

[3xowner]

so some work is need to fit the bosch into the old assembly...
know if theres a real simple one that is out of box ready for a plug in and go?


oh and what issues can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause? symptoms?

 

[koda2000]

so some work is need to fit the bosch into the old assembly...
know if theres a real simple one that is out of box ready for a plug in and go?

oh and what issues can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause? symptoms?

Yeah it's a little work, but it's really easy to do. If you include the problem you'll likely have disconnecting the fuel line from the assembly, I'd say it's easier to replace just the pump. On the in-tank fuel pressure regulators the only issue I've ever heard of someone having is that the plastic housing of the regulator had broken. Only ever read about one person having this problem. His symptom would have been low or high fuel pressure. Either way, you're going to have to pull the assembly from the tank to see the regulator. All 6 of mine were fine.

If you want super easy, take it to someone, have them install the assembly and fork over $500-$750. If you want to save a bunch if money, do it yourself. You'll learn as you go.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do just the pump, since you are happy with the fuel gauge function, don't change that. I've got a HPF brand pump to install into my 99 soon, they have a Ford kit that comes with the little items included, and a few strainers which are likely not identical to the stock one(they are trying but those aren't expensive anyway(typically $7 or so)). My kit was $70 because it's the 255lt/hr version, the stock replacement version they make is about $53, on Amazon. Those are quieter than stock, and with a lifetime warrantee.

I'll make a thread showing the pump install process. As mentioned, the removal of the fuel lines from the tank assembly is the hardest part. Using the right tool to make those let go is critical, plus plenty of patience. Regards,

 

[3xowner]

thanks.... yea, I am just trying to plan ahead being a back yard grease monkey... summer is coming and I feel this will survive and behave during the nice weather, i.e. up to 85-90'F max... I have a feeling its going to take a dive at 100+ day after day. I'd like to do it in a day with everything I think I will need on my shelf, but think right now, its going to be better to give myself a week to drop the tank a bit, attempt to free up assembly from the tank, than attempt to detached from lines, and finally remove pump. Then I can fully consider my options... seems involved, but for me the slower and more carefully I go I think I am going to benefit in damage control

Well I got a 1500 mile round trip this coming week, crossing my fingers and hopefully garage it afterwards.... I better not forget the flat block of wood, rubber mallet, and 12v booster pack.

 

[field]

thanks.... yea, I am just trying to plan ahead being a back yard grease monkey... summer is coming and I feel this will survive and behave during the nice weather, i.e. up to 85-90'F max... I have a feeling its going to take a dive at 100+ day after day. I'd like to do it in a day with everything I think I will need on my shelf, but think right now, its going to be better to give myself a week to drop the tank a bit, attempt to free up assembly from the tank, than attempt to detached from lines, and finally remove pump. Then I can fully consider my options... seems involved, but for me the slower and more carefully I go I think I am going to benefit in damage control

Well I got a 1500 mile round trip this coming week, crossing my fingers and hopefully garage it afterwards.... I better not forget the flat block of wood, rubber mallet, and 12v booster pack.

 

[field]

I replaced my fuel pump twice. Both pumps cost about $100, first one from Auto zone that failed, second one from O'Reilly. The first one lasted one year. The second has gone about 3 years now. I didn't even drain the almost full tank the second time. Just Houdinied it in.

You should know that parking on an incline facing downhill causes the pump to overheat when sucking air when only a little fuel rest in the forward part of the tank.

 

[Justinwht]

So in doing the pump, i guess you mean the whole assembly?
I do see various ideas of replacing the whole sending unit / pump assembly yet I do see some ideas of just the pump alone.

Three different items.
Fuel pump only - two inch long cylinder for $80 (as I recall).
Fuel pump replacement kit - includes the bracket, crimp connectors, and nylon sock for $110.
Entire assemble for - includes complete bracket, and float and level sensor for $400 from Ford.

I bought the fuel pump only but didn't want to deal with any unknowns, so took it back and bought the fuel pump replacement kit.

 

[Justinwht]

Found this.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/fuel-pump-access-door.324891/
Post #13
Pic of fuel pump only and of complete assembly.

 

[Justinwht]

I'll make a thread showing the pump install process

Been meaning to do this with step by steps pictures I took along the way.

 

[3xowner]

well I started this today.... needed to stop and ask the forum, what is the best way to disconnect the vapor line?

in all the videos and write ups I have found, it seems everyone skips getting to the actual method on this connector.

I cannot add the photo... is adding media only for paid subscriptions?

ANyway this is a 2000 and the vapor neck in the tank is green and the black vapor line has a gray connector to the neck. I can see one side of the connector and it looks like it is like a T that you press on both sides to release.... Is that correct? or should I be using the quick line disconnect tool?

I really do not want to break this.... I only have the SUV up about 9" inches off the ground on jack stands... truly not a job to be done with little clearance and laying on my back. I already have the fuel line off, hoses off, and have disconnected the electrical harness from its frame mounted connection join. Just this last vapor line needs off and I can lower the tank down and out

Thanks !

 

[Justinwht]

The only connectors I needed the special tool were the two fuel lines next to each other. Are talking about the single line on the passenger side? I forget if it's a squize to release to screwdriver insert. Don't remember if I used needle nose pliers or screwdriver.

Let me look for my pics of that connector.

 

[3xowner]

I uploaded it to my expedition forum account and now have the pic linked above.

I only have one fuel line from the sending unit and then a separate vapor line nearer to passenger side.

This is a 21 gallon tank for the 4.0 SOHC

 

[Justinwht]

My bad...There are five lines and two electrical connectors.

Gas cap line and vapor return (?)
Fuel lines with quick-disconnect fittings.
Low pressure line on passenger side your just push on.

 

[3xowner]

looks the same vapor neck.... prob the same connector... so is it that you simply squeeze the connector tabs? or use quick disconnect tool?

 

[Justinwht]

The black rubber hose just pulls off with a tug, no tool needed.
I forget how the electrical cable pulls off but it was easy to figure it out - pliers or screwdriver, don't remember.

 

[SupaSwope]

That black 3 wire connector is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, its part of the evap system.