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Another head gasket thread

Correct me if I'm wrong, but as long as I didn't crack into the timing set, one CAN'T mess up the valve train, right? Even if I rotated the crank without heads on?
 



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I think you have a vacuum leak and a collapse lifter is all..that motor does not sound like its running a cylinder down..also have you ever check the wiring on the injectors??do they all share a ground on one side??
 






Correct me if I'm wrong, but as long as I didn't crack into the timing set, one CAN'T mess up the valve train, right? Even if I rotated the crank without heads on?

Correct
 






I think you have a vacuum leak and a collapse lifter is all..that motor does not sound like its running a cylinder down..also have you ever check the wiring on the injectors??do they all share a ground on one side??

I should be able to check that with my voltmeter, right?
 






I think you have a vacuum leak and a collapse lifter is all..that motor does not sound like its running a cylinder down..

Please don't take this as arguing, I'm just trying to wrap my head around this. If I have a vacuum leak, that means too much air. Plug leak, less air, runs better.

My situation is the opposite (to my understanding). When I MAKE a vacuum leak, it gets more air, and runs better.

I'll put them both back together tomorrow. I'm gonna test for a vacuum leak, and I should have a compression tester tomorrow.

For the collapsed lifter, the sound is only there off-idle. Will it do enough harm to warrant pulling the intake to replace that one lifter?

Just for the record, I've got PLENTY of oil pressure. The entire rocker assemblies and the underside of the valve covers very well covered in oil.
 






I've read that to do the lifters, the heads have to come off. It would have been a good idea to do them when you had heads off IF they were in your budget, they're expensive little buggers.

In my opinion, replace all the vacuum lines with silicone hose. The plastic lines are thin and easily rub holes into the sides. The boots also crack and loosen up. Straight silicone hose eliminates all of that junk with thick and super flexible walls. See my signature for more.

That said, I doubt a vacuum leak is your issue. When I got my Ex, I didn't know it at the time but there were oodles of vacuum leaks. The boots were all cracking, there were 3 holes in the plastic lines and the brake boost grommet was crumbling. Plenty of hissing going on in the engine bay but it drove just fine. The computer can compensate for that pretty easily.

Your issue is pretty severe. Something that you can do for free might be to unplug various sensors to see if one makes the engine run better. Start with the MAF then TPS then ECT, IAT, maybe even the O2 sensor if you can get to it (above the bell housing). Normally when unplugging these things, the engine will run much worse but if one of these sensors is faulty, the default information in the computer might make the engine run better.
 






So far, I've already unplugged all the sensors. The only ones that didn't make a noticeable difference were the MAF and TPS. All the others made the thing run worse, almost stall. The only way (so far) that I've been able to make it run ANY better is to CREATE a vacuum leak...and by that I mean I disconnect the brake booster AND the charcoal canister (the two biggest ones on the tree). This whole thing is screaming too much fuel...WAY too much fuel. Like, oops, didn't mean to put that Dominator carb on my 4-cyl, my bad. Not sure if I can get to the O2 sensor while it's running. I have read a few threads on here talking about an air pocket behind the thermostat that messes with one of the temp sensors there...the one to the right of the thermostat...possibility? What else would/could make these pump too much fuel in? Anything on the fuel pump/filter side of things?

You saying something about the plastic lines clicked something in my head. I remember pulling the FPR line off the FPR while it was running (still connected to vacuum tree) and there wasn't NEAR the vacuum at the FPR end of the hose as there is at the tree. I just went out there and pulled the line completely off (UIM, valve covers, alt, rad hose still off) sucked on one end and held my finger over the other. Tried to blow into it as well. No leaks either way. It was REAL hard to move air through it. Just didn't seem right that there'd be that much vacuum at the tree and not at the other end....might try and find a chunk of vacuum line on my Sammi that I could borrow just for testing purposes.

So you don't think I could have a hunk of crap holding a valve open? I know some tiny bits of old head gasket might have gotten between piston and wall, but nothing 'big' was left in cylinder when I put heads on. I rotated the engine by hand a few times and wiped the walls clean before the heads went on...thinking about it a bit more, if I did have a valve hanging open, the rockers 'should' be a bit loose and tapping like mad, but they're not, so...
 






The charcoal canister connects to the tb..if a valve was stuck open you would hear backfiring somewhere. .
 






The charcoal canister connects to the tb..if a valve was stuck open you would hear backfiring somewhere. .

You're right. The other big hose goes to the cruise control.

Also true about the valve hanging open.

Any thoughts on what might make this thing dump too much fuel? Thought about pulling the MAF and TPS from the '93...maybe even that temp sensor...
 






You're right. The other big hose goes to the cruise control.

Also true about the valve hanging open.

Any thoughts on what might make this thing dump too much fuel? Thought about pulling the MAF and TPS from the '93...maybe even that temp sensor...

A lot of things dictate the fuel ratio. O2 sensor, IAT sensor, ECT sensor, MAF sensor, TPS...

The IAT and ECT you can test with a voltmeter, it's outlined in the Chilton book. If you need the specs let me know.

Swap the MAF & TPS over just for giggles if you get bored. Unplugging the MAF & TPS should make the engine performance take a huge dive since the computer has no idea how much air is coming in and how much throttle you're giving it.
 






Unplugging the MAF & TPS should make the engine performance take a huge dive since the computer has no idea how much air is coming in and how much throttle you're giving it.

The only ones that didn't make a noticeable difference were the MAF and TPS. I was able to test the TPS with my voltmeter and it tested good. I'm gonna put the '93 back together so at least she'll have her rig back. When I do that, I'm gonna put the MAF from the '92 onto the '93 and see what happens.

Should have a compression tester today, so we'll see what comes from that too. If all cylinders are good, should I still squirt some oil in and run test again?
 






'93 back together with TPS, MAF, coil, wires, injectors, FPR, and plugs from '92. Starts and runs perfectly. Did ohm test on ECT. Both rigs same so I didn't swap those.
 






How ahout the iac? Think we are all just grabbing for straws now..
 






Or hell switch ecms..maybe its been bad whole time.idk
 






How ahout the iac? Think we are all just grabbing for straws now..

If that's the one closer to the firewall on the intake, I pulled the connector while it was running and it about died (the '92). Now that I know all these external components between both rigs are good, I'm not pulling the '93 apart, at all, again. Now my focus is on the compression test.

I've been grabbing for straws from the first time I fired up the '92 after the heads!!! Lol. My head hurts from all the banging and now I'm bald.
 






Its a bigger thing near the tb..unplugging it definitely will effect idle..

20141012_132829_zpse7rcyexf.jpg
 






Or hell switch ecms..maybe its been bad whole time.idk

Where exactly IS the ECM? What about the ICM? I was reading another post this morning where dude had an engine running on two cyl. Turned out he had a failed ICM...
 






If compression checks out good I would switch ecm..very easy to do, in the passenger kick panel. He probably meant ecm..not icm.
 









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Switch ecm..its easier than compression check..lol
 






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