Any Recommendations on Front Rotors?

[Folken]

Greetings All:

Well, I replaced one rotor and had another remachined at 50k miles. I guess my mistake there was taking it to the Ford dealer in the first place. Now, it's just over a year later (at 70k miles) and one of my front ROTORS is warped again! This is just nuts! My pads are worn out and I'm replacing everything again (This time on my own and under instruction from an experienced mechanic friend).

I'm curious if anyone has any recommendations on rotor companies. I see some online and the manufacturer isn't always listed. It just states if it is to "OEM Specification" or not. I'm thinking about using drilled rotors if I can find them cheap enough.

Also, what are the major differences between pad types? Ceramic vs. Kevlar metallic, etc.? Is there a combination where I can have good stopping distance, yet not have noisy brakes? My friend recommended purchasing ceramic pads, but I'm just hoping to have all the options in my head before I make a purchase. Thanks in advance.


Folken

 

[holptj]

Check out this info on seasoning the rotors and bedding the pads.
http://www.oregonviperclub.org/bedding_rotors.htm
A few months back I replaced the fronts using Bendix rotors and pads and following the above procedure. The brakes still feel great.
BTW - I always thought that pedal-pulsation was due to warped rotors until I read this: http://www.bendixbrakes.com/tech/Pedal-Pulsation_How-and-Why-it-Happens.pdf
After the success on my X, I did the fronts on my Crown Vic and the difference is like night and day. Used Bendix on both and I am very happy.

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

I work at an O'Reilly Auto Parts store. From my experience, buying new rotors and pads from Wagner is the best bet unless you want to go with something really expensive. Wagner rotors go for around $45 each and a set of pads is around $40. I can't remember off hand if ceramic pads are available for an 01 sport, I know Wagner doesn't make them for my '97 XLT. Its pretty cheap to get rotors resurfaced, we charge $7.50. Just find a parts store around...skip the dealer.

 

[dalefanatic38]

dont get drilled rotors, they crack to easy cause of the heat. if you want better rotors get slotted. i work at advance auto and i think ceramic pads are better. less friction than semi metalic. which gives you better stopping power. for rotors our bendix ones are good.

 

[Folken]

Drilled AND Slotted?

In regards to the rotors, would drilled AND slotted ones be ok? I've seen some of those at decent prices online and I was really curious. Thanks

 

[holptj]

Don't mean to steal the thread, but perhaps someone can answer 3 questions from personal experience or technical knowledge. 1) Unless you get your brakes super hot (red hot) is there any advantage to running slotted/drilled for street use. 2) On the street or even mild off-road, how hot do your brakes get? 3) If you run slotted/drilled on the street, do you loose braking capacity due to the loss of rotor mass? The last question is important to me because I like the look of slotted and would consider them for appearance purposes if the braking capability wasn't diminished.

 

[97BlackX5.0]

my opinion on brakes.... go find the least expensive rotors you can get and the best semi-metallic pads you can get.... the pads tend to keep the rotor flat and unwarped... by slowing wearing it away...i could never justify buying 200 dollar rotors when the semi mettalic pads that stop the best eat the **** out of them.. then when its time for a new set of pads.... about 60k or so later... you can go out and get your pads exchanged for new ones.... cause they will have a lifetime warranty on them and see if your rotors are worn beyond use...if so buy new ones..if not put the new pads on and check them again in 20k or so.... no resurfacing and you start the process all over again for about 70 bucks ... which is what i paid for both my rotors... The bendix pads at advance auto are great for doing this... although i think i got the rotors at carquest cause they were cheaper.... i heard to stay away from ceramic for around town duty because before they heat up they dont grab as well and that in the rain and snow you have very little braking till they get up to operating temperature which is higher for ceramic than semi mettalic.... i always bleed the lines when putting new pads on also to get fresh fluid in there.....


oh and MY NO 1 rule of brakes is to always do things in pairs..... whatever you do to the left side you do to the right.... if one caliper is froze they both get replaced.... if one rotor is shot the other is close....

 

[stubborn1]

On the ceramic pad issue, I've heard if you do any towing to stay away from ceramic pads and stick to semi-metallic. The ceramic pads can fade under a heavy brake load.

 

[Folken]

my opinion on brakes.... go find the least expensive rotors you can get and the best semi-metallic pads you can get.... the pads tend to keep the rotor flat and unwarped... by slowing wearing it away...i could never justify buying 200 dollar rotors when the semi mettalic pads that stop the best eat the **** out of them.. then when its time for a new set of pads.... about 60k or so later... you can go out and get your pads exchanged for new ones.... cause they will have a lifetime warranty on them and see if your rotors are worn beyond use...if so buy new ones..if not put the new pads on and check them again in 20k or so.... no resurfacing and you start the process all over again for about 70 bucks ... which is what i paid for both my rotors... The bendix pads at advance auto are great for doing this... although i think i got the rotors at carquest cause they were cheaper.... i heard to stay away from ceramic for around town duty because before they heat up they dont grab as well and that in the rain and snow you have very little braking till they get up to operating temperature which is higher for ceramic than semi mettalic.... i always bleed the lines when putting new pads on also to get fresh fluid in there.....

Thanks for the info! Also, everyone thank you for the info on the ceramic brakes. My life has changed from when I originally bought the vehicle and I now do a lot of city driving. From everyone's recommendations, I guess I'll skip the ceramic brakes.

 

[Oversquare]

Answers.

1) Brakes on the street rarely see temps above 500F. However, on a heavy vehicle such as the X, and towing (downhill), the brakes can easily reach temps over 700F.

2) There is no advantage to using slotted or drilled rotors in street applications, unless you were using some rare, extremely cheap, brake pad. Today's brake pads do NOT degass, and do not need the holes/slots to allow gasses to escape. Yes, drilled/slotted rotors are more prone to cracking and warping.

3) Using slotted/drilled rotors will not increase (or decrease) your braking distance in street applications.

My advice? Brembo makes good-quality OEM replacements, and Performance Friction makes very good Carbon Metallic pads. If your truck is more than 5 years old, you can benefit from replacing the flexable brake hoses for better pedal feel, and replace the brake fluid. My recommendation for brake fluid is Castrol LMA.

Hope this helps.

-B

 

[mabulok]

holptj's post is probably the best bit of advice I have seen on brakes. The important points to remember: Do bearings when doing brakes, torque everything to specs, lube the caliper mounting bolts to keep the caliper and pads from sticking, and never use air tools on your lug nuts. Metalic pads...cheap rotors, keep your bearings adjusted and you can avoid the 2,000 mile brake jobs.