Anybody know what this part is???

[billard3]

It’s right to the right of the air intake, as you can see. It keeps engaging and disengaging and it’s causing the vehicle to surge quite strongly! Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

[koda2000]

A/C compressor. It's doing its thing.

 

[poker4me007]

That's your ac compressor. It will change your idle when it engages.

 

[billard3]

@koda2000 @poker4me007 its more than just changing the idle. Every time it engages it causes the truck to surge so strongly that I have to brake as hard as possible to keep from moving. So it’s most annoying at lights. I don’t really feel it while going over 15. Is that something that’s easy to replace?

 

[poker4me007]

It shouldn't surge that high. You can shut it off with your heater knob in the off position or where the yellow arrow is. Try that and see if it helps.

 

[billard3]

It shouldn't surge that high. You can shut it off with your heater knob in the off position or where the yellow arrow is. Try that and see if it helps.View attachment 164935

Wow that worked! Cool! Thanks! Is that something I should fix you think? I guess just if I want A/C?

 

[koda2000]

The A/C compressor may engage in any HVAC setting, except OFF, VENT and FLOOR. It should not cause much of a surge when it engages, though the idle will increase slightly to compensate for the extra load of the compressor running.

If your compressor is causing much of a surge, something is wrong, but IDK if the issue is with your compressor, IAC or something else. I'm leaning toward the compressor, but I could be mistaken. Your could try cleaning/replacing your IAC. On a vehicle as old as your's (24 years) things go wrong. Turning off the compressor is one way around it I guess.

 

[poker4me007]

If you want ac you'll have to figure out whats wrong with it, I really don't have a clue why it would surge so high.Maybe someone else on here who knows more about ac's will chime in.
In the mean time if you want all your heater controls unhook the wire where it goes into your accumulator,(becareful as not to break it) pictured with the yellow X.It's located under the hood on passenger side.You could probably pull a fuse, or unhook it at the ac compressor, (just my preference).

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome.

The AC clutch signals the PCM(computer) to alter the rpm's of the engine, it raises it on purpose to compensate for the clutch load. If the engine is struggling from the change, then something else is wrong, but not the AC compressor.

The clutch runs in all positions except OFF and VENT.

I suggest cleaning the IAC first, that needs a cleaning every year or two. They almost never fail, so first clean it well and be sure to not spray much carb cleaner up into the diaphragm side(the rubber can be damaged).

Give the truck a tune up, change plugs and wires etc, all fluids, filters. It's much easier to diagnose issues if the tuneup stuff is caught up.

 

[1998Exp]

Wow that worked! Cool! Thanks! Is that something I should fix you think? I guess just if I want A/C?

I would not recommend disabling the A/C. Even if you don't need cooling, it's there to dry the air. Unless you live in the desert, with no A/C your windshield will fog up very easily.
As for the surge, I agree with those who said it's an engine problem and suggested to start with the basics -- including cleaning the idle air control (IAC).

 

[Moogles can't dance]

I had to find an emergency replacement for front left stabilizer bar link bushings. All 4 had completely dicentegrated.i used the thick EVA foam from an old pair of crocks. Ill find out if it improves the ride tomorrow.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I had to find an emergency replacement for front left stabilizer bar link bushings. All 4 had completely dicentegrated.i used the thick EVA foam from an old pair of crocks. Ill find out if it improves the ride tomorrow.

Wrong thread. No need to crock your bushings, the truck will drive a day or two with no bar at all, and the parts are available in stock at just about every auto store. The crock material will not be resilient or stiff enough.

 

[koda2000]

I believe the PCM monitors en

I had to find an emergency replacement for front left stabilizer bar link bushings. All 4 had completely dicentegrated.i used the thick EVA foam from an old pair of crocks. Ill find out if it improves the ride tomorrow.

Front sway bar end-links are cheap. Replace them. The foam from and old pair of crocks wont work. The stabilizer bars are there for cornering control and don't effect the straight-line ride.

 

[410Fortune]

"I had to find an emergency replacement for front left stabilizer bar link bushings. All 4 had completely dicentegrated.i used the thick EVA foam from an old pair of crocks. Ill find out if it improves the ride tomorrow."

Woweeeeee this is my new favorite thing in the whole world, I have not seen a post like this in years! Congrats
Yes please do let us know how this works out, I own stock in Crocs so its good to see their products are being used!
I do not expect crocs foam to hold up well on a stabilizer link. I am mostly surprised that you were able to un thread the stock link and put it back together! Usually they break by now. A new Stabilizer link is about $20 for the good ones.

 

[swshawaii]

I had to find an emergency replacement for front left stabilizer bar link bushings. All 4 had completely dicentegrated.i used the thick EVA foam from an old pair of crocks. Ill find out if it improves the ride tomorrow.

Let's make it easy. Many choices. Replace both sides and don't over tighten. Threadjack done.
2002 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Stabilizer Bar Link | RockAuto

 

[Brian Middleton]

Maybe try a new Idle Air Control (IAC) because the computer adjusts the idle with the IAC when the compressor comes on.