Anybody think they can handle this difficult solve? Need some 2nd opinions with a crank over but no fire up

[Devan]

I have an Eaton M90 01 XPLR sport 2 dr 4.0 v6 sohc with a crank no fire problem. It turns over but does not fire, inertia switch is fine, pats system is fine and its def reading the keys transponder. The truck was running fine, I came home, parked it, came back to the truck a cpl hrs l8r to start it and it cranked but no fire. So i looked at my analog and digital fuel gauge and realized after priming the pump that the fuel pressure was bleeding off too quick. I built a hatch into the floor under the backseat for fuel pump access so I dont have to drop the tank everytime I wanna get to the dam pump. So I checked the pump assembly out and 1 of the 2 rubber lines had a crack in it and was just letting fuel squirt back into the tank so i replaced the rubber lines with much better line resistant to fuel, and I put more gas in it. The fuel pressure after priming stays constant now, but it still cranks and doesnt fire . I replaced the cam and crank sensors, i still have to test continuity between the cam and crank sensor connectors and the pcm connector, i also tried another coil pack. The coil pack is getting 12 volts on pin 1 or 4, i forget which one is power and the other 3 pins on the coil pack connector (which also go to the PCM connector) see nothing during crank(or I think I saw ground on those pins) which leads me to believe the pcm is not commanding the coil pack to spark, I also popped one of the spark plug wires off the coil and put it close to the coil plug to see if I could get a spark to go between the 2 and it didn't. If i have to replace the pcm that would be a big pita cuz i have diff injectors and a diff maf with a tune so if anybody has any ideas what kind of problem im dealing with besides a pcm replacement that would be great although the check engine light during Key On signifies that the PCM is good I think, ill have to dbl check that. During cranking but not firing, I think i saw power at the injector connectors. Im thinking maybe its a possibility the engine is flooded although their is no fuel on the dipstick and i still have to pull the plugs out to see if they are wet and stick a camera in each spark plug hole to see if fuel just sits in the chambers after crank no fire . The engine bay battery junction box relays and fuses and cabin fuse box fuses are fine although i should prolly test continuity from each relay female pin in the engine fuse box like for the pcm relay etc back to wherever they go, and I still have ignition wires to test under the steering column. I gotta check alldata wiring diagrams for that. Engine bay grounds are good, all fuses have power on both sides and at their female pins. I still have other pinpoint tests I have to do, and I should prolly check out the pcv system as well, maybe my catch can is full. Im just looking for a 2nd or 3rd opinions. thx a bunch

 

[DintDobbs]

Have you considered throwing a junk yard coil pack on it? A few months after I bought it, I drove my '99 to work one day and it ran like a deer, when it was time to leave it would crank all day but not start. Some random guy who had a coil pack came around (long story) and sold it off to me, and it's been running strong for 6 years since.

A few months after I bought it, I drove my 2000 about 60 miles at the start of a 400-ish mile trip and it ate the coil pack. Ran it home on 5 cylinders and threw a junk yard coil pack on it, and she ran the trip fine and has run beautifully for a year since.

The coil packs just blow up randomly with no prior sign of malfunction. Try replacing it.

 

[Devan]

Have you considered throwing a junk yard coil pack on it? A few months after I bought it, I drove my '99 to work one day and it ran like a deer, when it was time to leave it would crank all day but not start. Some random guy who had a coil pack came around (long story) and sold it off to me, and it's been running strong for 6 years since.

A few months after I bought it, I drove my 2000 about 60 miles at the start of a 400-ish mile trip and it ate the coil pack. Ran it home on 5 cylinders and threw a junk yard coil pack on it, and she ran the trip fine and has run beautifully for a year since.

The coil packs just blow up randomly with no prior sign of malfunction. Try replacing it.

From above-"I replaced the cam and crank sensors, i still have to test continuity between the cam and crank sensor connectors and the pcm connector, i also tried another coil pack. The coil pack is getting 12 volts on pin 1 or 4, i forget which one is power and the other 3 pins on the coil pack connector (which also go to the PCM connector) see nothing during crank(or I think I saw ground on those pins) which leads me to believe the pcm is not commanding the coil pack to spark, I also popped one of the spark plug wires off the coil and put it close to the coil plug to see if I could get a spark to go between the 2 and it didn't."

I have a really good coil pack on it, I think it's one of those screaming demon coil packs, like the best performance one I could find for the 4.0 sohc, however I also have 2 or 3 other coil packs laying around that I tried.

 

[DintDobbs]

If you've already tried an other known good coil pack, then that definitely checks that off the list...

Could well be the PCM. That wouldn't be fun.

Flooding and catch can are worth a shot; wait for others to hop in with suggestions.

@Fix4Dirt and @410Fortune and @vroomzoomboom might be able to give better pointers. C'mon over this way, boyos!

 

[Josh P]

The check engine light is a good sign. The last crank, no fire I had to troubleshoot it ended up being the square connector at the back of the engine with the 10mm bolt. Check your 5V reference voltage, something unrelated to the ignition can cause issues like a bad dpfe sensor, for example. I've seen it happen once.

 

[Devan]

The check engine light is a good sign. The last crank, no fire I had to troubleshoot it ended up being the square connector at the back of the engine with the 10mm bolt. Check your 5V reference voltage, something unrelated to the ignition can cause issues like a bad dpfe sensor, for example. I've seen it happen once.

Are u talking about the connector right by the metal vent hose tube for the trans, like right on top of the trans bell housing?
O na your talking about where the engine harness plugs into the rest of the harness right that 10 mili bolt?

 

[Josh P]

It's on the drivers side of the engine next to the relay/fuse panel

 

[410Fortune]

okay so no spark
How many miles?
Check wires going to the crank sensor for sure

Is it possible the engine has lost timing?
How does it sound when cranking? Healthy?

This thread maybe helpful

2011 4.0l crank no spark - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech - 2011 4.0l crank no spark - Hello out there. I have read many answers to this problem but have not come up with a solution for my problem. I have a 2011 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0l engine. I was headed to work and the truck just quit, no bang grinding or other telltale...

www.ranger-forums.com

And another

No start after timing chain replacement

I need some help. Back in July I purchased a 2011 Ranger Sport with the 4.0 SOHC, The truck had a blown head gasket. I briefly heard the truck run it started up but ran with a miss. There were codes for cylinder misfire on #5+6. I pulled the engine and sent the heads to a machine shop to be...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Devan]

It's on the drivers side of the engine next to the relay/fuse panel

You're talking about the engine harness main connector to body harness connector. On my version of the 4.0 sohc that connector is right in front of the coil pack on top of the driver's side valve cover. There are like three or four different intake manifolds for the various cologne 4.0 sohc engines and the older ones have metal valve covers while the newer ones have plastic valve covers, but because of all that, wiring could be routed just a little differently. And I think there might be very subtle differences within the engine internals as well, nothing substantial.
I might actually have three to five volts going to ground somewhere but that never stopped my XPLR from runnin. And my truck will run all day without a DPFE, as a matter of fact I have my DPFE plugged in but I don't have vacuum hoses on it at this time because I don't currently have my custom EGR tube installed.

 

[Devan]

okay so no spark
How many miles?
Check wires going to the crank sensor for sure

Is it possible the engine has lost timing?
How does it sound when cranking? Healthy?

This thread maybe helpful

2011 4.0l crank no spark - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech - 2011 4.0l crank no spark - Hello out there. I have read many answers to this problem but have not come up with a solution for my problem. I have a 2011 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0l engine. I was headed to work and the truck just quit, no bang grinding or other telltale...

www.ranger-forums.com

And another

No start after timing chain replacement

I need some help. Back in July I purchased a 2011 Ranger Sport with the 4.0 SOHC, The truck had a blown head gasket. I briefly heard the truck run it started up but ran with a miss. There were codes for cylinder misfire on #5+6. I pulled the engine and sent the heads to a machine shop to be...

www.therangerstation.com

Technically this is the fifth engine I've had but only the third engine to go into the truck and I'm on my second transmission and third rear axle with LSD, factory axle didn't have LSD. I got a motor from a junkyard that was like the only one I could find that delivered (cuz my truck was down) and offered guaranteed replacement warranty, the first two motors they sent me, the timing drive was destroyed on both of them and they let me keep the first and second one and they sent me a third one and the timing drive was destroyed on that one too so I picked the best candidate of the three and rebuilt it myself. As far as timing drive components for the 4.0 sohc, the only way to go is Official Ford parts, I've done extensive research on this and you can see the lack of quality clearly if you put ford timing drive components next to aftermarket timing drive components for the 4.0. I just wish there was an aftermarket performance kit that was better. So no the engine is healthy and it didn't jump timing. I think my odometer is around 365k, and the motor prolly has around 150k, I bought the truck for 1800 at 160k on the odo, roughly 15 yrs ago and I've never been this stumped about a problem with it lol. Well I'm not stumped I'll figure it out eventually, I hope .
I'll check those links out tho.
But I'm thinking the PCM is not commanding the coil pack to spark. Ok so at the coil pack connector, pin 1 is power supplied in run/start and the other 3 pins are for the pcm to command spark at the coil. What should I be seeing on coil pack pins 2,3,4 during cranking or running? Should I be seeing a constant or intermittent 5 or 12 volts or should I just be seeing a constant or intermittent ground or what? And what should I be reading at the injector connectors? Unless you needed an oscilloscope or something to properly measure that LOL. I also still need to test the ignition switch more under the steering column. I'm pretty damn sure the PCM is good, I think it has a reason as to why it's not commanding spark. In order to rule out the PCM I could just get another PCM and put the factory injectors and factory mass air flow back on there and see if it starts cuz it should at that point. However right after key on the check engine light lights up and then fades out which means the PCM is good I think. But the same thing will most likely happen to another pcm, the PCM won't command spark. If anybody has any ideas as to why the PCM won't command spark besides anything I already said above that would be great if anybody else has any ideas I'm about to go to work I'll update l8r. I'm also going to check to see if voltage is going through the inertia switch, and I have to look into the wiring for the ignition switch under the column. And test continuity from Cam and crank connectors back to PCM connector and check out the engine harness connector to body harness connector and take a look at the catch can and see if the spark plugs get wet. I'm going to spray some starter fluid in there and see what happens, amost surely nothing. I've left the PCM disconnected for a few days, how great would it be if I put it back together and it cranked over and fired because I disconnected the battery for a while . it would prolly die out 500 ft down the road

 

[Devan]

okay so no spark
How many miles?
Check wires going to the crank sensor for sure

Is it possible the engine has lost timing?
How does it sound when cranking? Healthy?

This thread maybe helpful

2011 4.0l crank no spark - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech - 2011 4.0l crank no spark - Hello out there. I have read many answers to this problem but have not come up with a solution for my problem. I have a 2011 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0l engine. I was headed to work and the truck just quit, no bang grinding or other telltale...

www.ranger-forums.com

And another

No start after timing chain replacement

I need some help. Back in July I purchased a 2011 Ranger Sport with the 4.0 SOHC, The truck had a blown head gasket. I briefly heard the truck run it started up but ran with a miss. There were codes for cylinder misfire on #5+6. I pulled the engine and sent the heads to a machine shop to be...

www.therangerstation.com

That first thread about the crank no spark is pretty helpful, it actually answered a few of my questions that I had just posted previously lol thx.

What else guys lol

 

[410Fortune]

Well you are going to need spark before it’s going to run
So we gotta sort that out
Confirm no spark on two cylinders then start checking wiring
I suggest the wiggle test and a good look at all relay, fuse, battery and ground connections.

Theft Light should go out while cranking
A problem with the key and pcm pats can result in a no start

Your 01’sport do you know the build date? They switched from pats b to pats e halfway through 01

If wiring checks to and from coil pack, crank sensor is good cam sensor is good we have to start to suspect the pcm
If you have a friend with a 98-02 sport or explorer or ranger you can swap the pcm pats module and ignition tumbler over to yours just to see if it will fire
We should confirm the pcm relay is distributing power check for battery + at red wire at an injector w key in start/run

compression test after this
Physical inspection of entire drivetrain exhaust power box fuses? I have fixed trucks in the past by cleaning the blades on all fuses and relays, inspect power box for any corrosion

Spitballing here