Anyone used rubber hose to replace rotting section of trans cooler lines?

[sehaare]

Been under the 98 auto SOHC for a few days fixing various things. One of the things that I noticed while I was under there is that some sections of the transmission lines going to and from the tranny to the radiator and cooler have been rusting in sections. I bought the new lines but I can't get to the upper fitting on the transmission and because of the way the lines are bent you can't get the lower line out without taking the upper line at the same time.

So I was wondering if anyone has cut out bad section of these lines before and used rubber hose to connect the good sections? I know that rubber hose is used to connect the hard lines to the tranny cooler under the radiator. But I believe those hard lines have barbs on the end. If I cut out section of bad lines there will not be barbs there - could I still get a good seal with just hose clamps on the barbless lines? Not sure of the pressures involved.

Thanks again.

 

[koda2000]

You can use rubber hose, but make sure it's transmission cooler line rated. The pressure is quite low (12-15 psi). Double clamp it or use FI type clamps instead of the worm-drive style.

 

[sehaare]

You can use rubber hose, but make sure it's transmission cooler line rated. The pressure is quite low (12-15 psi). Double clamp it or use FI type clamps instead of the worm-drive style.

Since I already have the new pre-bent lines I'm thinking of just cutting out the rusted section, then cutting the same section out of the new line and using rubber hose at both ends. I think that would be better than a long run of rubber hose.

Thanks

 

[1997XLTRollover]

You can do it, just make sure it's not near the exhaust or going to rub through on anything. Also as said above make sure it's trans line. It's not really the pressure so much as it is the temperature and the fact that it's designed to resist breakdown from the ATF. Regular rubber hose will break down and you'll get little pieces of rubber in your trans fluid after time, which will clog up the valve body.

 

[koda2000]

Since I already have the new pre-bent lines I'm thinking of just cutting out the rusted section, then cutting the same section out of the new line and using rubber hose at both ends. I think that would be better than a long run of rubber hose.

Thanks

I agree.

 

[Maniak]

They sell rubber transmission "hose". It's 300 psi rated and rated for oil.

Almost all of my trans lines on my '92 are rubber now. There was no metal line available for my trans combo (700r4) and I didn't want to get into bending lines so more than 100k miles ago I went with rubber..

I have put some heater hose over the rubber lines as the run against/near the engine but otherwise they have no extra protection.

~Mark

 

[Flash]

Almost all of my trans lines on my '92 are rubber now. There was no metal line available for my trans combo (700r4) and I didn't want to get into bending lines so more than 100k miles ago I went with rubber..

They use 700R4s in Chevs don't they?

Grab your pitchforks!!!

 

[Maniak]

They use 700R4s in Chevs don't they?

Grab your pitchforks!!!

Yes, I replaced my failed multiple times a4ld transmission with a stronger 700r4. I think I was the 5th of 6th person on here to do it.. I don't know how many really have it anymore... The only other active member I know of with it is [MENTION=3817]BKennedy[/MENTION].

As for a Chevy part, well, I have parts from a few other vehicles plus lots of universal parts.. I'm not a parts snob.. I use what works best.

• Transmission - 700r4 from a 1991 s-10
• Trans fan - Geo Prism/Toyota corolla
• Front Trac Lok for Dana 35 (usually listed for jeep)
• Working on getting a set of Jeep (well, for jeep) hubs for a Dana 35 (37780)
• Ford Winstar shifter cable for my manual transfer case conversion (still working on installing that)
• f-150 springs (individual leaves) were mixed with my old Leaf spring...

~Mark

 

[Flash]

The 700r4 is a pretty good trans.
Was it just an adapter plate?

How did you go with the computer or didn't it have one?

 

[Mike65]

I have had to cut back the metal cooler lines where I have seen they usually rust where they are secured in the clips under the radiator. I did this on our last 99 Sport & my current 00 Ranger 4X4.

 

[sehaare]

Thanks all, I bought the hose and FI clamps tonight. I'm burned out on the XLT tonight hopefully get back to working on it tomorrow.

 

[sehaare]

as a follow up in case someone else has to do this in the future. I was able to replace 2 of the 3 lines completely. I never could get a wrench on the top fitting on the transmission. Maybe if I had a stubby flare nut wrench I might have gotten on it but I wasn't going to cut the $25 Snapon flare nut wrench that I own. When I got done and fired her up no leaks and no rust, so happy camper.

Some lessons learned:

1) To get at the bolt for the clip near the oil filter that bolts into the engine to support both of the lines going to the transmission I had to remove the oil filter. It was hard unscrewing and it looked like they had used thread lock when they original put it in.

2) For the longest line that goes from the bottom tranny fitting to the top radiator fitting, you are going to really have to bend this to get it in. I had to take the almost 90 degree bend that is near the bottom of the radiator and bend it almost straight. I felt pretty comfortable doing this as A) I had to bend the hell out of the old one to get it out and it wasn't damaged, B) the new line came bent almost in a U in its package for shipping. Worked out fine, just make the connection at the tranny first.

3) for the lines going to the radiator. They screw into another fitting that screw into the radiator. Get a wrench on the second fitting as you unscrew the first. I didn't at first and didn't realize that it was turning. I ended up crimping the old line, which was ok since I was able to replace it, but it would have been bad if I could get it out at the other end.

4) for the upper tranny fitting line that I couldn't remove I ended up cutting back the rusted part under the radiator and then replaced the rubber hose from the aux cooler with a longer one. Make sure it is a hose rated for tranny fluid and you need to support it. I used a real wide zip tie and split open some of the old hose and put it around the bottom of the new hose in case it rubbed. I used one Fuel injection hose clam - much more robust than regular hose clamps.

5) Anytime you do anything with small metal lines, whether it is tranny, brakes or anything else pony up the money for a good flare nut wrench. I didn't understand this when I was younger and have the rounded off fittings to prove it on my first few vehicles. This is one time it is worth spend $$ on a one or two use tool. And you will kick yourself in the ass if you think you are saving money on a cheap flare nut wrench and then round off the fitting anyway. (see the $24 snap on flare nut wrench mentioned above).