Anyone who has replaced the RH Cassette

[Midwest Kid]

Anyone who wants\has replaced the RH Cassette UPDATED PICS!

Can anyone please tell me a part number for that Rear Jackshaft Plug?? I couldnt find it on microfishce and neither myself or the dealer could find it on the dealers computer either. Thanks in advance!


03/08/08 - Finally found some time and got the parts in to do the RH Cassette. It can definately be done without removing the engine! Obviously the trans needs to come out along with the Left lower exhaust. Its a little tedious and kind of a PIA but it can be done. The hard part isnt whether or not the guide will fit in while the engine is still in the truck. The tricky part is setting the lower gear and chain down there. It didnt want to slide all the way down to the jackshaft. I had to give the chain some slack around the lower gear and work in down there but i got it. Its hard to explain but it can be done without fear of breaking the guide. The guide fits in fine without having to wedge it or anything else. Im posting pics too. I also found the part number for correct part number for that rear plug that goes over the jackshaft. Now i just gotta get the broken stud out of the exh manifold. lol :

Beware... this trans is one heavy SOB!

I cat to cut the bolt bc the little bugger just wouldnt break loose.

I found that the spring was missing keeping no tension what so ever.

Somehow, the Rt side was all broken up versus the left side which is typically the culprit!

 

[Midwest Kid]

updated!

 

[ITConsultant1996]

Here's what I've found on how to do this:

How to strip intake manifold off:
Dead Link Removed

Procedures to pull engine (very detailed checklist):
http://sohcreplace.blogspot.com/2008/06/1997-2005-4.html Plus his link to the photos:
Dead Link Removed

Tools to keep cam in place:
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-6488.html

Parts list from forums from guy who actually did it:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=227038
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Writeup from a guy selling the oilway restrictor valve on Ebay:

"Does your Ford Explorer's engine rattle at start up? This can be caused by lack of oil in the LH hydraulic chain tensioner on start up, the oil having run back into the sump when the engine is rested. This writeup is from his ebay ad, which is an offer to supply an oilway restrictor valve, designed to retain the oil in the tensioner, to help the hydraulic tensioner to work correctly on engine start up. His kit also includes a new hydraulic chain tensioner - so if you buy similar items at more than this price, you are paying a lot for a oil galley plug, (which is reusable anyway)!

The kit comes with fitting instructions and should take 1-2 hours to fit, depending on your level of skills and your toolkit.

This is applicable to Ford Explorers sold in this country (UK) from around 1996 to 2001 (P to Y reg). Models include Ford Explorer, Ford Explorer L, Ford Explorer XLT and Ford Explorer North Face. If your engine cover has 'SOHC 4.0L' moulded into it, or your engine is a V6 with aluminium heads, then this is applicable.

This part is designed to be a preventative measure, rather than a cure for the serious rattle and possible engine failure which can occur when the timing chain guides fail.

A note about these engines

When Ford (USA) wanted a replacement to their 4.0 OHV engine, they decided on a cam-in-head OHC design. They designated this engine the SOHC, even though it has 2 camshafts.

The camshafts are driven by chains which run in plastic guides. The problem arises when the plastic in the guides starts to break up, or the spring-steel in the 2 lower chain tensioners sets itself free. The chains then rattle against the side of the head or block and the broken pieces of plastic or steel mill aound in the engine voids. When the parts are broken in to small enough pieces, they make their way into the sump and can be drawn into the oil pickup, where the fragments settle in the strainer, causing slow build up of oil pressure and restricted oil flow.

The LH chain is scurfing the outside of the head and block, bringing metal and plastic particles up into the the cam case, where they congeal into a black mush, which eventually makes its way into the hydraulic tappets' oil reservoirs, causing sticky tappets. Meanwhile, the RH chain is slowly destroying the upper cassette retaining bolt and, on its way down, scurfing the block and depositing fine particles into the sump.

These engines may go on for many miles in this condition, the only clue being a rattle from the chains on start up, a rattle on idle, and, perhaps, the occasional fault indication on the dashboard (low oil pressure, engine management light). The rattle sounds a bit like tappets and it will come and go, and can become too loud to ignore. Ignore these warnings at your risk, because the engine is preparing to surprise you in one of the following ways...
The chain breaks through the left hand cam cover, allowing oil to spill over the exhaust manifold.
1. The jackshaft chain breaks through the timing cover
2. The valve timing slips, causing loss of power and, possibly, bent valves.
3. A chain breaks, causing untold damage.
4. Prevention would be better than cure and a check on the condition of the chains and guides, followed by appropriate remedial work, might save some expensive repair work later.

Ford (UK) made these engines the subject of a warranty extension and redesigned the timing components to provide a long lasting solution. Most Explorers in the UK slipped through the net and therefore still have the original parts fitted.

As far as he can ascertain, there is no service interval for replacing these parts, unlike most cars where the 'cam belt service interval' is well documented.

As a result, most Explorers are still running on the original equipment, which is a design fault.

Ford now supply a re-designed assembly, which is much more robust and does appear to have addressed the design flaws in the original fitment.

He has have seen these engines with problems at 40k miles and others which are still serviceable at 110k miles. Typically, 60000-80000 miles is the danger zone.
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If you have any questions, he gives his UK phone number as 07949 158239. He is located in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire."
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[SuperGordo]

I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have any other info on doing this with the motor in the car? I have to pull the tranny from my 2000 4wd explorer, And I'd love to change the rear casette assembly with the motor in the vehicle..