AOD question

[cculter]

I recently got a 302 with and AOD and full wireharness out of an 88 Mustang for free! Well I was wondering if there is a way to change the tailshaft to be able to make the AOD bolt to the AA adapter for my BM1354 transfer case.

 

[Glacier991]

I cannot answer this one... anyone else know ?

 

[cculter]

Thats ok thanks anyway. I hope I don't need to buy a 4x4 AOD.

 

[Glacier991]

As a general rule you can swap extension housings between 2x4 and 4x4 on most transmissions - BUT... the output shafts have to be changed, which requires complete tranny disassembly.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, and transfer case for the older transmissions will require the 4WD output shaft and tail housing. If that is for a truck like the Explorer, then you would be better off finding a 99-01 4R70W. The internals are much better, either for the guts into the AOD, or better yet to use the whole Explorer operating system. Good luck,

 

[cculter]

Thanks glacier and Don. I am new to the different transmissions and how to control them. I wouldn't know how to control the 4R70W.

 

[CDW6212R]

The whole operating system for the Explorer 302's, and trans, is far superior to the previous system. The EECIV PCM etc. is in all 86-95 Mustangs, you likely have a lot of those parts now.

The 96-01 Explorer uses a EECV PCM, called OBDII also. That PCM is much better, it can handle almost any high performance changes that you could add. You would not need some expensive aftermarket ignition(MSD, retard box etc.) or an FMU(alters fuel pressure).

The EECIV PCM cannot handle any significant changes, or the driveability drops, or the engine doesn't run.

If you plan for absolutely no changes from bone stock, use the PCM etc which is easiest for you to install. For heavy duty use, the Mustang AOD's are not near as good as the internals of the Explorer 4R70W's. The AODE of the 54/95 Mustang is better, but a few upgrades still occurred till about 1999. The improved guts of those later AODE's and 4R70W's all go right into an AOD.

You should be able to find a 4WD AOD very cheap for a core price. Good luck,

 

[cculter]

Thanks for all the great info. How hard is the OBD II system to wire? I am hoping 410 will jump in and give me some of his advice I know he has wired OBDII.I had considered this option and getting a 4R70W. I know they are stronger. I am trying to collect some info right now before I go too far and waste money. Thanks again.

 

[cculter]

Anyone know about OBD-II in a first generation. I really would like to do this but don't know very much about the wiring.

 

[Glacier991]

Why bother, when you can stay with your old AOD and put the 4R70W guts in it?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, if you keep the 302 very near stock, the best choice will be the one which is easiest for you to find the wiring etc. for. If you do anything at all non stock to the engine, the 1996 and 1997 Explorer system would be well worth the trouble to use. A donor vehicle is best to find for all of the parts. Regards,

 

[cculter]

Ok. Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

[offroader_69_me]

I am also looking at a 86 t-bird 5.0 and aod swap, so I am jumping on to see what you find and I will let you know what I find out good luck

 

[CDW6212R]

I have done the 86-95 Mustang type swap. That swap of an entire operating system, wiring and all sensors etc, it is no easier than doing the same with a 96 or 97 Explorer 302 system.

I installed an 86 Mustang GT engine into an 86 Crown Vic(351W). That car isn't as complicated as some now, but if the current 302 Explorer's existed back then(1993), I would have rather had it. That 88 302 was stock and I never changed it. It ran great for the last 80-90,000 miles of its life.

The point I suggest is that how few people will swap in a stock 302 like that, and leave it stock? Those EECIV computers cannot handle more than the most mild changes in air flow or fuel flow. If you ask too much of it, the engine will run rich and/or lean at many points in the rpm band. Thousands of modified 86-95 Mustangs are the proof.

If you can keep yourself from making big changes from stock, then the old Mustang, Thunderbird, and F150 are cheap engines to use(any FMS camshaft is too big for an EECIV computer). Also, note that the AOD has a required TV(throttle valve) cable which is critical to the trans, not adjusted properly immediately to start with, that will toast the AOD. Good luck,

 

[cculter]

Also, note that the AOD has a required TV(throttle valve) cable which is critical to the trans, not adjusted properly immediately to start with, that will toast the AOD. Good luck,

How should I find out about adjusting the TV cable properly?

 

[CDW6212R]

If you use OEM throttle brackets, or carburetor, and the cables, then it is a simple adjustment to make with the proper manual. So if you used 92 Mustang parts, then it would be easy to look at a shop manual for that car.

It usually amounts to setting the cable at a starting reference point, and then inserting a spacer tool to be able to set the adjustment. The spacer is just that, and shop manuals usually tell you what the thickness is, so you grab a drill bit that size etc.

I made the point about the adjustment because it should be done before starting the engine, and especially before driving it. The needed idle pressure is about 5psi, but that must increase immediately with more throttle. The adjustment (spacer) pressure is something like 33psi. If there is no pressure just over idle(driving), the TV pressure in the valve body will be too low, and clutch slippage will kill the trans very fast.

If you do go that route with an AOD, make sure to check the TV cable bushings. They are plastic and unless the mileage is low, they are worn out or will be soon. When they get loose, the cable falls off and the TV pressure drops to zero. I love the old AOD's but there are some things that will be forgotten over the years. Regards,

 

[Mickelsons]

Try this:

https://eshop.advanceadapters.com/commerce/ccc1258-aod-automatic.htm