attempted to change brakes for the first time today

[Cduncan133]

And I ran into a couple problems.

1st problem: My wheels were way overtorqued. They were at least 150 ft/lbs. The last time they were messed with was when I got a rotation and inspection done 6 months ago. Will this harm my wheel/lugs/studs at all?

2nd problem: My brake pads didn't fit. They barely fit with the old clips and didn't fit with the new clips. I took them back and they said it was a match for my vehicle, and 4WD/AWD use the same pads/rotors Now, since I was strapped for time, I didn't particularly do any cleaning, and it was pretty rusted. I will clean it when I give it another go. My main question is, can I file the ears a little bit to get them to fit?

The last problem I had was, when I removed the caliper, I had two lines that were attached to it. Obviously one was the brake line, but the second one looked like a wire and even had some plastic tubing around it. My guess is that it may (or may not) be the wheel hub wire. I just don't know how to remove that wire, because with it on the caliper I can't even tuck up caliper inside the wheel well like most videos I've watched have suggested.

thanks for any help!

 

[LMHmedchem]

1st problem: My wheels were way overtorqued. They were at least 150 ft/lbs. The last time they were messed with was when I got a rotation and inspection done 6 months ago. Will this harm my wheel/lugs/studs at all?

Do you mean your lugnuts were too tight? It is not uncommon for garages to not pay attention when tightening lug nuts. They should be hand torqued to 100lbs but this takes time and doesn't always happen. All that said, it is not unusual for rust to build up over time and even properly torqued lug nuts can be hard to get off. As far as I know, this will not cause any issues other than the difficulty in getting them off. I test my lug nuts after I have work done. If I can't get them off, I take my truck back and have them fix the issue.

2nd problem: My brake pads didn't fit. They barely fit with the old clips and didn't fit with the new clips. I took them back and they said it was a match for my vehicle, and 4WD/AWD use the same pads/rotors Now, since I was strapped for time, I didn't particularly do any cleaning, and it was pretty rusted. I will clean it when I give it another go. My main question is, can I file the ears a little bit to get them to fit?

I have also had this issue, as has my mechanic. Brakes are manufactured for many different vehicles. The brake pads are usually cast overly large and then run on an auto-cad milling machine to the specs for whatever vehicles the part is intended for. I don't know if there are times when the milling gets skipped, or of the wrong g-code program is run, etc. When parts come from China, it's hard to tell. My mechanic keeps a bench grinder just for the purpose of fixing this kind of problem.

I had to do this on my last brake job. I use a dremel, I don't think you will get very far with a file. If you do this, it helps to measure the pads with a caliper to make sure you get all of the ears the same size. I find the width to be more of a problem then the length. Make sure that the ear seats all the way down into the grove. If it won't, you may have to narrow the ears a bit. Once they seat, make sure that all of the ears are the same width, then work on the length.

Also make sure you are using a thin layer of brake grease in the grove and on the ears. The pads should slide reasonable freely in the groves once the caliper mounting bracket has been reinstalled. They should not be loose but you should be able to move them by hand.

The last problem I had was, when I removed the caliper, I had two lines that were attached to it. Obviously one was the brake line, but the second one looked like a wire and even had some plastic tubing around it. My guess is that it may (or may not) be the wheel hub wire. I just don't know how to remove that wire, because with it on the caliper I can't even tuck up caliper inside the wheel well like most videos I've watched have suggested.

This is likely the ABS wire and you should not have to remove it unless you are replacing the caliper.

LMHmedchem

 

[Joe in NY]

We have always had the pad fit issue with our suburban. Just take the pads to a bench grinder till they fit. We used to buy wagner thermo quiets and every pad had to be ground... This summer we bought the OEM Akebono pads, perfect fit, great break, and no dust compared to the wagner!... So maybe if use are using wagner too, they might just suck

 

[LMHmedchem]

We have always had the pad fit issue with our suburban. Just take the pads to a bench grinder till they fit. We used to buy wagner thermo quiets and every pad had to be ground... This summer we bought the OEM Akebono pads, perfect fit, great break, and no dust compared to the wagner!... So maybe if use are using wagner too, they might just suck

I have also had to grind wagner thermo quiet pads. The back pair fit just fine out of the box but the front were a mess. Every ear was a different dimension.

They have performed very well once I got them on.

LMHmedchem

 

[drdoom]

I just ran into this on my '97...they did eventually fit though.

 

[Number4]

The clips can be hard to navigate. Once the pad is inserted on one end, the part of the clip on the other end (closest to the rotor) hangs down a bit and catches the pad ear. You almost need to use a tiny screw driver to pry the lip up so the pad ear can get past it.

It will occur opposite which ever side you insert first. Pad in top first, bottom snags and vs.

Also, I've noticed the clips that come with pads can sometimes be too thick. If you picked up a clip set sold separately and compared the two, you'd physically see the difference.


IMO, you should NEVER, grind anything on a set of brake pads. You need to find another supplier if this occurs as their quality assurance program is ineffective.

The ABS wire is just held in place to the brake line by tonged clips. You should be able to use your fingers to simply pop it out.

BTW, where did you get your pads?

I use NAPA, they have an 'Application Engineered' brand, AE-xxxx, this brand utilizes the friction material from the actual OE supplier. Domestic and import.
They have a 'newer' ADO brand which utilizes different material on the inboard and outboard to reflect the difference in heat dissipation. (Not too hip on this one.)

I know that repair shops use their SS brand all day long.
Finally, their cheapest set, TS, I use when I need to slap a set on while reusing rotors etc, just to get another year. I usually go with their AE brand. Though over the last decade, I've used them all. Just put the TS brand on my '05 to 'buy a year.'

Edit: in all, what you are looking for is a good stopping distance. Dusting is annoying surely, but when it counts, you need to stop in time. Bad pads will feel like butter and your stopping distance will be increased.

 

[fordysenior]

I'm a firm believer that if you have a shop work on a vehicle and they remove any tires, then when you get it home, you should check the lugnuts to make they can be removed. It would be bad to be somewhere rural and you can't remove them. The anger meter would go way up. I've had to stand on a tool to remove them before, and then actually break the socket, or break the lugbolt. And ps, when checking tire pressure, check your spare tire now and then also.

 

[Cduncan133]

I got my front brakes and rotors from autozone. They're both duralast brands and the brakes are ceramic. The current set of brakes that are in here are some duralast metalic pads with the horrendous brake dust.

It's pretty cold here in Indy so I'm waiting until the last "warm" day which is Tuesday to give it another go at the brake job.

 

[Number4]

The cheap NAPA TS brand I just put on, are ceramic as well. Definitely takes me longer to stop.

I'll see if I can't dig up a brand comparison sheet I found once.

 

[TechGuru]

Ceramic brakes need to warm up before they stop well.

For that reason I don't like them. I have Duralast Gold Ceramic on the front of my Ford Probe which does not have ABS and I can put full force on the brake pedal and they won't lock up. I have some Wagner QuickStops (Semi-Metallic) on the shelf to be installed when I have time.

Stick with Semi-Metallic or Organic.

I'd give these a try, I plan on going with these when it comes time for my Explorer to get new pads (don't forget to have the rotors resurfaced at least every other pad change):

MOTORCRAFT BRSD833 Superduty - Integrally Molded Organic
Front; 4WD; Heavy Duty - D833

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1149913&cc=1414493&jnid=547&jpid=124

and

MOTORCRAFT BRSD881 Superduty - Integrally Molded Organic
Rear; 4WD; Heavy Duty - D881

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1149914&cc=1414493&jnid=547&jpid=121