ATTN 95X owners PL/F/L I DID IT!!!

[Mikes95XLT]

There's a couple of people down here at school that have Ex's and have given me weird looks when I only have the fogs on....

 

[Brian97V8]

Special tools

Instead of the wire nuts I think I might just use some sodder (sp) and that shrink wrap stuff. Got all the rest of the stuff. I think this project will take place after the OU-UT game this afternoon.

Wire nuts for 16 gauge wire, 16 gauge wire, tap splice, wire strippers, electrical tape, screwdriver

You should be good to go!

 

[Brian97V8]

Now what?

Took the wire loom apart, got the distribution box off so I can see underneath it, spent 30 min, and I cant find the dark blue wire with light green stripe anyware. PLEASE HELP

 

[Mikes95XLT]

Hey Brian... okay well, your wire might be in the relay box underneath your airbox. Cause the location changed but we're not sure what year yet, but it was between 96 and 98 so you might want to check there too. Take off your airbox, and you'll see a relay box under there. Take it off it's hook thing, and look there and you might find it there...... let me know what happens.

Try this thread too.... Dead Link Removed

 

[Brian97V8]

might not be ment to be

Ok tried to take the airbox off and it wont more so i think i am going to give up

 

[addkev]

The reason I said to disconnect the + side is that there are wires in the power distribution box that will still be live if you only take off the - side of the battery terminal.

You might want to study up on your basics of electricity. ALWAYS disconnect the neg. side of the battery. Having the pos. disconnected to keep it from being live doesn't make any sense, without a completed circuit there aren't any live wires. The biggest reason to disconnect the neg. is so when you are disconnecting or reconnecting the neg. cable and the wrench slips and touches the frame or any metal it doesn't spark. If the neg. is still connected and you are connecting the pos. and the wrench slips...you just made fire works. An easy way to remember is Black Boots(neg. cable is black) and Red Socks(pos cable is red). When you take your boots off you can't take your socks off first and vice versa when putting them on, you put your socks on first and then your boots.. Does that make sense?

Good job on your discovery.

 

[Brian97V8]

BLAM

I got it I FINALLY GOT IT!!!

Mission complete

 

[Mikes95XLT]

Nice..... did you find the wire in the relay box?

 

[Brian97V8]

Nope not in the relay box - it was by the airbox

 

[Mikes95XLT]

Yea that's what I meant..... the relay box, not the distribution box........

 

[Brian97V8]

Now i can be one of the cool kids too

 

[rydinhigh]

You might want to study up on your basics of electricity. ALWAYS disconnect the neg. side of the battery. Having the pos. disconnected to keep it from being live doesn't make any sense, without a completed circuit there aren't any live wires. The biggest reason to disconnect the neg. is so when you are disconnecting or reconnecting the neg. cable and the wrench slips and touches the frame or any metal it doesn't spark. If the neg. is still connected and you are connecting the pos. and the wrench slips...you just made fire works. An easy way to remember is Black Boots(neg. cable is black) and Red Socks(pos cable is red). When you take your boots off you can't take your socks off first and vice versa when putting them on, you put your socks on first and then your boots.. Does that make sense?

you might want to read a couple of posts before where someone else mentioned the same thing you just did. I know to take the - side off the battery first, it's just common sense, if others out there don't know to do it then they shouldn't be working on there cars.

 

[addkev]

Yeah it is amazing how that edit button works huh?

 

[IAmTodd]

One piece of advice if it hasn't already been mentioned, You HAVE to remove the Distribution box! Youc can't get to the other wires any way(in my case atleast). There are 8 tabs the have to be relesaed to remove it!

I'm in the process now of doing this mod! Just need to splice the wires in and i'll be set! Thanx for the info guys!
TODD

 

[scratched 95]

I just did this mod yesterday. I have some advice for those planning it. Instead of adding another wire and running to the parking light, use a hot wire in the cable bundle.

Once you open the bundle of wires from the relay box, the needed wire (blue/green) was right on top. Just under this were 3 red wires. Two were hot when the ignition is on, one was always hot. I cut the blue/green wire and stripped 1/4" from the end going to the box. I carefully removed about 1/4" of insulation from one of the ignition-switched wires, then wrapped the end of the blue/green wire around this and soldered it. I insulated the splice using some 'Tool Dip'. If you don't have any, get some, makes for easy weatherproofing/insulating. After it dried, I closed up the cable bundle and wrapped it in electrical tape. I now have my fog lights available whenever the ignition is on and can use them with any other lights, or none at all. It also offers the advantage of all wiring being in the original cable bundle, and there are no extra wires going anywhere under the hood.

 

[Fish Man]

it's just common sense, if others out there don't know to do it then they shouldn't be working on there cars.

hey, watch it!! every time i want to disconnect the power i have to ask my dad cause i can never remember. and yes, i have done all the work on my car.

 

[hydroxy]

Originally posted by scratched 95
I just did this mod yesterday. I have some advice for those planning it. Instead of adding another wire and running to the parking light, use a hot wire in the cable bundle.

Once you open the bundle of wires from the relay box, the needed wire (blue/green) was right on top. Just under this were 3 red wires. Two were hot when the ignition is on, one was always hot. I cut the blue/green wire and stripped 1/4" from the end going to the box. I carefully removed about 1/4" of insulation from one of the ignition-switched wires, then wrapped the end of the blue/green wire around this and soldered it. I insulated the splice using some 'Tool Dip'. If you don't have any, get some, makes for easy weatherproofing/insulating. After it dried, I closed up the cable bundle and wrapped it in electrical tape. I now have my fog lights available whenever the ignition is on and can use them with any other lights, or none at all. It also offers the advantage of all wiring being in the original cable bundle, and there are no extra wires going anywhere under the hood.

How can I tell which red wire to use? I dont have access to any electrical equipement to tell which one is always hot. (unless I strip some of the insulation off each wire and test that way - which I DONT want to do)


Thanks
patrick

 

[zzimzimma]

For $5 bucks...you can get a test light. Its the one that looks like an ice pick on one end with a light and has a wire with an alligator clip on the other end. put the clip end to ground and use the pick end to pierce the wire insulation...when it lights...you have juice running through that wire. Best part is when you pull the pick out of the wire, the hole is so small that it will seal itself back up.

 

[scratched 95]

Originally posted by hydroxy
How can I tell which red wire to use? I dont have access to any electrical equipement to tell which one is always hot. (unless I strip some of the insulation off each wire and test that way - which I DONT want to do)

I would agree with zzimzimma, either get a test probe, or a meter. You will need one anyway at some point. I would also check the blue/green stripe wire before cutting it - I wouldn't put it past Ford to have two of this color in the same bundle, and you wouldn't want to end up with something like your brakes only working with your parking lights on!

 

[baker7598]

I just did this mod yesterday. I have some advice for those planning it. Instead of adding another wire and running to the parking light, use a hot wire in the cable bundle.

Once you open the bundle of wires from the relay box, the needed wire (blue/green) was right on top. Just under this were 3 red wires. Two were hot when the ignition is on, one was always hot. I cut the blue/green wire and stripped 1/4" from the end going to the box. I carefully removed about 1/4" of insulation from one of the ignition-switched wires, then wrapped the end of the blue/green wire around this and soldered it. I insulated the splice using some 'Tool Dip'. If you don't have any, get some, makes for easy weatherproofing/insulating. After it dried, I closed up the cable bundle and wrapped it in electrical tape. I now have my fog lights available whenever the ignition is on and can use them with any other lights, or none at all. It also offers the advantage of all wiring being in the original cable bundle, and there are no extra wires going anywhere under the hood.

Right on the money scratched 95. This worked perfectly on my 95 and I love it!!
Would recommend to anyone with an explorer to do this mod...