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"Audiophile" Stereo?

Roveer: Some of the above is over my head, but I can confirm that the stock HU powers the door speakers and the Ford amp (in the rear right quarter panel) only powers the stock amp.

I am not using line level inputs on my setup. I hated the stock HU (extremely "colored" frequencies, don't think I could have ever got a flat frequency out of it), so Im installed an old Alpine HU I had.

I use the Alpine HU to power my rear speakers and I use the JL Audio amp to power my front speakers as well as my sub.

Good luck!
 



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Crizz said:
I don?t know any hidden tweeters, I only know the doorspeakers and the sub. Size of mounts are the same on all Explorer-Modells, so any speaker that fits to any other Explorer will fit the 2006.

w/o cutting larger systems won?t fit, and you have to take care for the deep of the systems because of the windows. Easiest way : Remove one of the panels of the rear doors and dismount a factory equipped speaker. Run the window down and look for all sizes, mounting diameter etc.

Will only take 15 min?s, not a big deal. How to get the panels off I posted w/ pics.

Crizz, I got the speakers, but they are Infinity Kappa 682.7 CF 2-Way Speakers. I lost my nerve and got the local electronics chain to install them for around $40.00. Now I can hear the crossovers occasionally rattling in the door so I guess I couldn't do worse. Anyway, all the people in the back seat can hear are the front speakers and the subwoofer. The difference is like night and day. I guess I better hurry up and get the back doors done, I'll do it myself this time.

Thanks again!
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huuh, doesn´t sound good to me. What´s the difference to the 682 ? And , why the heck does the crossover rattles ? Didn´t they fix it`? It´s so ever easy, just need a piece of double sided tape and place it right beneath the speaker-mount. WIll help get rid of any rattles. But, use a good tape, like those from "3M".
 






Infinity Kappa 572.5:
Size: 5 x 7
Sensitivity: 90 dB
Frequency Response: 40-21,000 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 100W
Peak Power Handling: 300W
Impedance: 4 ohms
Shipping: 7lbs
Warranty: 3 years

Infinity Kappa 682.7:
Size: 5 x 7
Sensitivity: 94 dB
Frequency Response: 75-25,000 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 100W
Peak Power Handling: 300W
Impedance: 2 ohms
Shipping: 3.04lbs
Warranty: 3 years

The 572's are showing up as "not available" at the mail order places I tried. I am guessing the 682's are their replacement. The 572's has greater low-frequency response but the 682's have greater high frequency response. The one thing that bothers me is that the 682s have 2 ohm impedance versus the 4 ohm impedance of the 572s and the original speakers. I have no idea what that means. I figured for $100.00 a pair its not that much of a risk.
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The lo impedance of 2 ohms some manufacturers are following. It´s only caused by the newer generation of power-amps that are most combined with a 1 ohm / 2 ohm stable output to realize maximum power with the same power-supply. To get the maximum power the load must have the same impedance like the output-stage, otherwise you only have voltage-adaption or current-adaption and power loss. Normaly it doesn´t matter to the HU, shouldn´t cause any damage as long as it´s amp-impedance isn´t higher than 4 ohms ( i only know car equipment from the 90´s with those 8-ohm-amps, and only GE-models ).
 






Crizz said:
The lo impedance of 2 ohms some manufacturers are following. It?s only caused by the newer generation of power-amps that are most combined with a 1 ohm / 2 ohm stable output to realize maximum power with the same power-supply. To get the maximum power the load must have the same impedance like the output-stage, otherwise you only have voltage-adaption or current-adaption and power loss. Normaly it doesn?t matter to the HU, shouldn?t cause any damage as long as it?s amp-impedance isn?t higher than 4 ohms ( i only know car equipment from the 90?s with those 8-ohm-amps, and only GE-models ).

Well, you certainly know much more than I about this. Do you think it matters if I use the same speakers for the back doors or should I find a 4 ohm solution? Thanks again.
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Shouldn´t be a big deal using the same speakers in the rear doors, too - I don´t know any modern car-system ( radio / tuner / HU ) w/o 4-CH-Amp, so it´s no prob for the Amp´s. ( If you would use a 2-Ch.-HU it would be different. But haven´t heared that so old equipment would be still in use ;) )
 






Well, I just finished taping the crossovers with double-sided tape. Besides the dangling crossovers, the guy did a pretty decent job! Instead of cutting the old plugs off (since no one seems to sell a matching harness), he spliced the wires in behind the plug so the plug is still there if I want to put the old speakers back.
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Ok, got a question for everyone here. I just replaced my head unit and used the 70-5520 harness. Now my stereo shuts off as soon as I turn the vehicle off instead of when I open the door. Any way to fix that? Also, when I pulled out my old radio, it had two connectors plugged into it. What was the other one for? Do I need to splice into one of those wires to get a different power wire?
 












I can´t - have sold the Ford-HU because it does not work correctly in GE, so I have no way to check if it is depending on the HU. Cannot remember that mine shut off when I closed the door.

And : I never mind about that. When I leave the car, the music is OFF. When I wan´t to party I make a boom-car out of it, and in this case the HU or any other equipment would NEVEREVER run over the ignition switch.

Why is it so important to you that it shut off when you open the door instead of turning off the key ? Can you explain ?
 






I'm just used to sitting in my car if there is something good on the radio for a few minutes without it running. It's just a convience thing. Wasn't sure is there was just a different power wire I needed to connect to.
 






Normaly "no". If I turn of the engine with turning the key just as far as needed to switch off, the radio stays "on". Only when turning the key to "ign.off" the radio shuts off. Are you sure you tried this way ?
 






Yea, the radio still works that way. I'm just used to being able to take my keys out and listen for a few mins. Not a huge deal though, just one of those annoying things. Especially since I can't figure out how to fix it. :)
 






Subwoofer Size

What is the size of the factory subwoofer? I am attempting to perform a replacement of the sound system so that everything looks somewhat "factory". I have heard that the sub is a 6" and also an 8"? Does anyone have an accurate size as well as mounting depths, etc.?

Thank you!
 






What is the size of the factory subwoofer? I am attempting to perform a replacement of the sound system so that everything looks somewhat "factory". I have heard that the sub is a 6" and also an 8"? Does anyone have an accurate size as well as mounting depths, etc.?

Thank you!

I think its an 8", but how to get to it, I have no idea. Anyone feel like posting a picture walk through of how to get the panel off and get to the sub and the amp in the back? Does the stock hole fit a 10"?

Also, does anyone know what the stock wiring setup is altogether? From what I can gather, its this... (the lines represent wires.... sorta)

HU==front and rear speakers on 4 different channels
\___low frequency line to the amp which powers the sub.

Am i right?
 






I can't seem to follow a couple of install notes here, but do any of you have the stock "audiophile" system with upgraded speakers? Does this system have enough power to drive aftermarket speakers?
 






Don´t worry about the factory HU´s output - it´s powerful enough to drive most of the available aftermarket-speakers. Just take care not to get 2-ohms-speakers, they could be a little problematically to some integrated amps.
 






Don´t worry about the factory HU´s output - it´s powerful enough to drive most of the available aftermarket-speakers. Just take care not to get 2-ohms-speakers, they could be a little problematically to some integrated amps.


Actually, I was looking for those fancy Kappa's that you have. It should be ok to drive those?
 



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Don´t worry about the factory HU´s output - it´s powerful enough to drive most of the available aftermarket-speakers. Just take care not to get 2-ohms-speakers, they could be a little problematically to some integrated amps.

Now I'm worried Crizz! I've been running with the 2 ohm Kappas for about 4 months. What kind of problems did you see with them?
 






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