auto hubs VS manually locking | Ford Explorer Forums

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auto hubs VS manually locking

tealtterror

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October 19, 2003
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City, State
Murfreesboro, North Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT
i need some help, my auto hubs have broken and i wanted to replace them with warn manually locking. is this a good move or should i buy some new ford auto hubs
 



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Definitely a good move, they're cheaper, and better. I believe you need manuals anyways if you ever decide to put a locker in the front.
 






Yea def get the manual hubs, they are a million times more reliable and stronger, and they are a heck of a lot cheaper!
 






Im in the same situation, damn it would be nice to have autohubs, but warn manuals would probably be better for me, now i just got to get the shift motor working right...
 






3 "94 xlt 4x4's" in one thread lol:D
 






With the manuals, how does it work exactly? Like.. you get out, twist, then push 4x4 switch?
 






Originally posted by huskyfan23
With the manuals, how does it work exactly? Like.. you get out, twist, then push 4x4 switch?

Yep, if your doing a trail or something, you can lock the hubs at the beginning, then push the 4WD button when ever you need it. You don't have to unlock the hubs until you know you won't need it 4WD anymore.
 






I had a 94 XLT and I replaced the @#$ "auto" hubs with Warn manuals - what an improvement!! I sold the rig to my friend and now he just putts around town.
 






Auto hubs like the name implies automatically lock when the front axle shaft turns (ie you pressed the 4x4 button).

Manual hubs only lock if you have physically locked them by hand. Pressing the 4x4 button sends power to the front axle, but if the hubs are not locked then the axle just spins freely.

Therefore as ahhjaws mentioned you could just lock the hubs when you think you will be using 4x4. When you need to use it then just push the button and you are instantly in 4x4 (no bumping or harsh noise).

You could drive around with the hubs locked and just push the 4x4 button and you would be in 4x4. But it isn't really fuel-efficient since when the front end is locked the front axles & drive shaft are turning creating unnecessary drag.
 






my question now,, how much are they, and can i get them easily in canada?
 






Are manual hubs better for traction? and since you are locking all four wheels, with manual hubs, does this mean you have a true 4x4? i know my auto hubs only have the front drivers side and rear pass side going when in 4 wheel drive. thanks
 






Originally posted by xposm
i know my auto hubs only have the front drivers side and rear pass side going when in 4 wheel drive. thanks
That has to be taken care of at the diffs (differential) with lockers. Most stock trucks have open diffs, only allowing one wheel to spin at a time. Or a limited slip in the rear. So most 4x4 are actually 4x2, one front tire and one rear.
 






Also there is someone here on the board who buys broken auto hubs. So if you get a some manuals, you can sell the autos and not have to pay the whole cost :D
 






Originally posted by Premier
there is someone here on the board who buys broken auto hubs
WHY, starting a collection?
 






No he rebuilds them. Lemme find the link for you...

EDIT: Ok, he will pay $25 for the PAIR, plus shipping. Here is the link: :D
 






Originally posted by xposm
Are manual hubs better for traction? and since you are locking all four wheels, with manual hubs, does this mean you have a true 4x4? i know my auto hubs only have the front drivers side and rear pass side going when in 4 wheel drive. thanks

As mentioned by lonestar your statement is not 100% correct. When you engage 4x4 your transfer case will send power (equally) to the front and rear differentials. It is the diiferentials that send power to the individual wheels. Open diffs will send power to the path of least resistance (exact opposite of what we want!). Therefore when you say your front driver's side is powered you are not 100% correct. If you where to driving off road and your passenger front wheel left the ground then the diff would send 100% to the wheel hanging in the air.
 






www.4wheelparts.com that is where I ordered my manual hubs. So much improvement. It cost @$200 for everything that you need. Not to mention that the tool for taking the manual hubs off is a hell of a lot cheaper then the rounded hex head socket for the auto hubs.
 






So on my 98 sport, i have open diffs and limited slip in the rear.... how exactly does the limited slip work? (i see we have some experts here so i figured nows a good time to chime in)..

and also.. from my understanding (which is probably going to be wrong now).. my years explorer i have a 2" TT up front, because if i went higher i would chew my CVs up... this implies to me that my hubs are always engaged and my axels are always spinning- so therefore i dont even have auto-hubs, they're just always engaged?

However (my dad noticed this the first time he took it for inspection) the idiots there tried to put it on the rollers.. it took em 4 tries to realize 4x4 was kicking in- but the back tires would spin first AND THEN the front tires would kick in... insnt the Tcase supposed to be sending some percentage of power to the front tires at all time??

Im baffled ! :confused:
 






I didn't either before I came here. I knew about how they worked and that's about it.

Basically a limited slip, (ie, Posi, Trac-Lock, or the clutchless Torsen) all work on the same principle. There is a torque biasing between each wheel. To make things simple, say the torque bias is 2. So that means one wheel can supply 2 times the torque (grip) of the other. So if one wheel is on a less firm (traction) surface the other wheel can supply up to 2 times the amount of torque to the other wheel before it begins to spin.

Simple examples.

1) Both wheels on same surface.
Duh, they will both grip equally and spin together, no need for any torque biasing.

2) One wheel on solid ground, one wheel on soft or slick ground.
This where it gets tricky. Suppose the slick tire is able to provide 100 ft lbs of torque before it spins, then the other tire is able to provide 200 ft lbs of torque before any slippage in the diff occurs, giving a total of 300 ft lbs available to move the vehicle. OK. So then, if 300 ft lbs is enough to move the truck then everthing is good.

But if your in a ditch, deep mud or trying to climb, than the 300 ft lbs may not be enough to move the vehicle. OK, So what happens. Basically as you provide more torque with the throttle, the slick wheel increases to its maximam traction torque provide by the surface, the other wheel biases to its maximum of twice the slick wheel and then the L/S breaks free allowing the slick wheel to spin like an open diff. This demonstrates how a limited slip is beneficial, but is limited in its capability.

3) One wheel on the ground, one in the air or barely touching
So your suspension is flexed to the max and one wheel is surrounded by air, or barely touching. Well, air doesn;t provide much traction, I would say approx 0. So, the other wheel provides twice that, = 0. And now you have one wheel spinning in the air, just like an open diff.


Lockers.
Three basic types. Full, Selectable, Auto.

1) Full
Also known as a spool, locks both wheels together all the time, like a solid axle on a go-kart. Not recommende for street use.

2) Selectable
Allows driver to switch between full lock and open diff. Most common is ARB.

3) Auto
Provides full lock capability while automatically disengaging. It's kinda hard to explain. It is usually fully locked, but automatically disengages when different tire sppeds are encountered while cornering, however it will lock up if additional torque is supplied to accelerate through corner. Most common is PowerTrax.

Most of this information can be found searching for PowerTrax, and Torsen.
 



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Originally posted by sk1er17
and also.. from my understanding (which is probably going to be wrong now).. my years explorer i have a 2" TT up front, because if i went higher i would chew my CVs up... this implies to me that my hubs are always engaged and my axels are always spinning- so therefore i dont even have auto-hubs, they're just always engaged?

correct, your disco is at the transfer case

However (my dad noticed this the first time he took it for inspection) the idiots there tried to put it on the rollers.. it took em 4 tries to realize 4x4 was kicking in- but the back tires would spin first AND THEN the front tires would kick in... insnt the Tcase supposed to be sending some percentage of power to the front tires at all time??

I'm guessing you have control trac with auto 4x4: auto, 4hi, and 4lo. Thus no true 2wd. If it was in auto it will only engage the front if it detects slippage in the rear. Time to do the "brown wire" mod for true 2wd!

Im baffled ! :confused:

BTW, Kris G. is the one buying broken auto hubs. He then rebuilds them and sells them much cheaper than Ford. Some still like the auto hubs, especially in cold weather.

One more thing: if you have an auto locker or LS in the front it is a bad idea to leave both hubs locked and be in 2wd. Your traction aid will still engage and make turning difficult and maybe break parts. You could leave one hub locked and only have one to lock and unlock.
 






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