Auto Trans. Cooler Line Install on 2000 5.0L AWD

[GregonVI]

I need to replace the trans cooler lines on my Explorer. I have the two lines that Dorman offer but the long line that goes from the trans to the rad from what I can find was only ever available from Ford and is discontinued so I will probably have to make that one. My questions are does anyone know where I may be able to buy that line and how hard is it to disconnect and install the two lines from the transmission as from what I can remember there isn’t a lot of working room and I believe the exhaust is right there?

Thanks, Greg

 

[8TZX]

On my 99 5.0, I had a pin hole leak (rusted thru) on the line from the transmission to the top of the radiator. I was able to locate an OEM line by doing a search with the OEM Part number. You still might luck out. The challenge is access to the upper flare fitting on the transmission. There is very little room unless you remove the exhaust. I watched multiple videos on Youtube on Ford transmission line replacement. There were none on the Explorer, but it did give me some ideas. I didn't want to remove the exhaust so I tried just trying different combinations of socket/extensions and swivels. You do need to use a crowsfoot flare wrench. No luck. Another video was to use a dremel and cut the line at the fitting. Again limited access to maneuver the flexible shaft dremel cutting wheel.The other challenge is leverage to break torque. I attempted to remove the fitting with the front up on ramps. I couldn't loosen it. I probably could have if it was on a lift. After fighting it for a couple hours I decided to go to Plan B. I cut out the section that was leaking and replaced with about 1o inches of transmission hose with double fuel line clamps. Problem solved. That was two years ago. One word on the Dorman lines. I used a Dorman line that is from the transmission cooler to the lower radiator connector. The flare fitting thread pitch on the Dorman did not match the Ford OEM thread pitch. It took a while to figure that out. I ended up cutting off the Doman fitting and replacing it with the Ford fitting. That solved that problem.

 

[C420sailor]

I’ve replaced short sections of trans cooling line with sections of truck brake line I found at NAPA and compression fittings. Works great, strong, no leaks.

If it’s no kidding rotting and/or leaking in multiple spots, you should replace it.

There aren’t really any suppliers. Maybe you’ll get lucky on a NOS one at a dealer somewhere. Otherwise, your options are to bend up your own, or pull one out of a used truck that hasn’t spent much time in corrosion-prone areas.

 

[410Fortune]

Other option is to just run rubber hoses

Cut your stock lines so they are about 5” long, after the bends. A simple pipe cutter and simple flare tool, then double Clamp. Use 3/8 line rated for trans fluid and you are good to go. Zip tie them out of harms way maybe some heat shielding where they pass by the exhaust
I do many conversions this way

At the trans you can get both fittings with a 16mm or 5/8” wrench without dropping the exhaust
It’s not easy but it can be done. Remove the lower fitting first to get access to the top

 

[Pete Deering]

I need to replace the trans cooler lines on my Explorer. I have the two lines that Dorman offer but the long line that goes from the trans to the rad from what I can find was only ever available from Ford and is discontinued so I will probably have to make that one. My questions are does anyone know where I may be able to buy that line and how hard is it to disconnect and install the two lines from the transmission as from what I can remember there isn’t a lot of working room and I believe the exhaust is right there?

Thanks, Greg

Replace the lines with 3/8 " ni-copper brake line. Easy to bend and flare.
Purchase the line from thestopshop.com.
3/8 " steel tube is very hard to flare. Just like stainless steel.
Removing the lines from Radiator, uses two wrenches( flare wrench and one combination wrench).
On the tranny uses crows foot wrench.
Remove the inner fender liner. There is a strap for the line by oil filter.
Remove it as a assembly, then bent your new lines to the old.
See old post about this.
Things too know.
Radiator: I remove my battery, too give me more access too get in there with the two wrenches. Also the tube flares and fitting are different. Reuse the fittings. I believe they are a bubble.
Tranny I reuse the fittings.
Mark the lines with tape, tranny top connection, tranny bottom connection, also at the radiator ends same marking. Rad top, rad bottom.

 

[GregonVI]

Ok thanks guys! Nothing is leaking…..yet but I want to replace the lines on my time not when I have to, the two main lines are getting rather rusty especially the one that goes to the cooler. I had to recently replace the rad so I changed the line that goes from the lower port on the rad to the cooler, it threaded into the port ok. I will either use rubber hose or bend up a new line from copper-nickel tubing for the long line that goes to the top port on the rad. Thanks again.

 

[C420sailor]

If you use hose, make sure you take extra precautions to properly secure it and apply anti-chafe where it makes sense.

 

[410Fortune]

I’ve had rubber lines in my bii since 05 and setup several other trucks this way
I make a simple flare and double clamp. Carefully route the hoses and protect from heat

The big disadvantage to using rubber is it does not dissipate heat like a metal line would