Axles keep breaking

[unclemeat]

The little bit of research I did, did not give me a number for increased strength. I am definately curious as to what the real world effect will be to the axle.

 

[bigbzc]

Well, with the research I did within my club, Club 4x4 upstate SC, the D44 looks like a good one. Alot of the guys are running them in their buggies and crawlers. I know that my truck weighs more than a buggy but if these things can hold up to the full-size trucks they come on then there should be no reason they can't work on mine. The weak point on them is the ujoints and with stronger ones it should do just fine. As for now, I'm just gonna replace my stock axles so it can roll and do a little light wheelin until I get around to the axle swap. Not gonna waste anymore money on the stock axles cuz I just know I will break them again

 

[little x]

Well, with the research I did within my club, Club 4x4 upstate SC, the D44 looks like a good one.

If you read the tech article posted by Meat you would have read that a D-44's Maximum Output Torque is 240 ft lbs weaker then a D-35's MOT. What makes you think you won't be breaking the D-44 more often then you break the 35? Which is why mostly everyone in this thread has told you to skip the D-44 and go straight to a 60.

 

[bigbzc]

Well the solid axles my buddies are holding up pretty good. Maybe its just the TTB that makes it bind the axles and break them. Anyway, if I got a D60, what truck shoud I getit out of?

 

[FROADER]

I never broke a d35 axle with 35s. I broke 2 inner (short side) axles with a d44 and 35s.

 

[bigbzc]

I never broke a d35 axle with 35s. I broke 2 inner (short side) axles with a d44 and 35s.[/QUOT


Tat's interesting. I am running an auto locker though. Before I do anything, I am going to ge new axles and put stronger u-joints and see how far that gets me

 

[Slowlyvverot]

also remember that your friends' buggies are probably a LOT lighter than your explorer. and that has a big effect on the stress on the axles and their components. the same bulletproof d44 under a buggy may not be very bulletproof under your heavy ass SUV.

 

[FROADER]

Tat's interesting. I am running an auto locker though. Before I do anything, I am going to ge new axles and put stronger u-joints and see how far that gets me

I had the Detroit L/S in both axles. I still preferred the solid axle to the TTB for wheelin' purposes though.

 

[LBarr2002]

Anyway, if I got a D60, what truck shoud I getit out of?

You could get it from this one: http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105267&highlight=explorer

He's decided to part it.

Do you go to Gulches often?

 

[Elessar65]

I would definitely go with the D60. Do it right the first time. 35s and a heavy rig like an X is about the limit for a D44 IMO. Bouncing and mashing the gas with the wheel locked to one side will snap shafts even in a 1 ton axle, seen it happen plenty of times.

Finesse is the name of the game. If your style is to go balls out, skinny pedal to the floor, thats fine. But build your rig accordingly. Rockwells anyone?

 

[LBarr2002]

I would definitely go with the D60. Do it right the first time. 35s and a heavy rig like an X is about the limit for a D44 IMO. Bouncing and mashing the gas with the wheel locked to one side will snap shafts even in a 1 ton axle, seen it happen plenty of times.

Finesse is the name of the game. If your style is to go balls out, skinny pedal to the floor, thats fine. But build your rig accordingly. Rockwells anyone?

Oh yeah, after wheeling my samurai with D44's and the way my driving style has changed... if I ever build another explorer it would have to be chromo 60s or rocks....

 

[4x4junkie]

Well the solid axles my buddies are holding up pretty good. Maybe its just the TTB that makes it bind the axles and break them. Anyway, if I got a D60, what truck shoud I getit out of?

Ummm...

The D60 front you'd want to look for would be in the following vehicles (avoid duallie versions):

'78,'79 F-350 (F-250 w/Snowfighter package)
'86-'97 F-350
'05-current F-250, F-350

And if you think your axle might be binding, places to check would be the beam window where the shaft goes through on the passengerside, as well as the ends of the radius arm bolts on that side hitting against the axle shaft while flexed (you'd have to have a pretty good amount of travel for this to happen, but it's not completely unheadof with some typical bolt-on setups).

 

[bigbzc]

What truck (stock) can I find the D60???? ( for the front) It has to be reverse rotating gears so I can use my stock T case

 

[whitetrashfab]

What truck (stock) can I find the D60???? ( for the front) It has to be reverse rotating gears so I can use my stock T case

You mean reverse spiral cut gears (they turn the same direction as low pinion's)

I destroy something on my 44 with chromo's, 300m joints, locked with 36's about every other trip or so. The problem? my rig weighs a ton and I drive it way to hard... Im building a set of dana 60's right now... my front is a cut down 60 out of an 89' f350 (hp kp) and the rear is out of a 00' econoline e350.

Here's a good place to start your research on dana 60's
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
Another good one on dana 44's and dana 60's
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

 

[bigbzc]

You mean reverse spiral cut gears (they turn the same direction as low pinion's)

I destroy something on my 44 with chromo's, 300m joints, locked with 36's about every other trip or so. The problem? my rig weighs a ton and I drive it way to hard... Im building a set of dana 60's right now... my front is a cut down 60 out of an 89' f350 (hp kp) and the rear is out of a 00' econoline e350.

Here's a good place to start your research on dana 60's
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
Another good one on dana 44's and dana 60's
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

Ok, so you are saying that I can run high or low pinion? The drive still turns the same way? And what do you mean by "cut down"

 

[Elessar65]

As long as the differential is on the drivers side you are good. All Fords, and some Dodge trucks have drivers drop diffs. The Dodge years I'm not sure of, its a little tricky cause they kind of bounce back and forth from driver to passenger drop. The Ford axles are preferred anyways. Ideally you would want a 78/79 Ford 1 ton truck, or F250 Snowfighter.

Here's some "light" reading for you....

Dana 60 Bible

 

[whitetrashfab]

The dana 60 has a 69.25 WMS, my early bronco dana 44 has a 59.25 wms. Our trails here in WA are narrow and I want to keep my tires under my rig so I cut my axles down to match what I already have. The Forrest Service is trying to make 80"s outside to outside of the tire the "legal" size so Im just trying to build within our stupid rules. You can stay under 80 with offset rims like Hummer ones but you will run into steering/radius arm problems in a hurry. The only "big" reason why the 78'-79' fronts are so popular is the diff offset alows you to mount your radius arms or leaf springs farther inboard alowing you more steering and rim options. You can make the newer dana 60's work with radius arms with a little cutting like Im doing.

http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304600

 

[Elessar65]

Another option, depending on your budget and or fab skills, is to buy a fabricated housing. They are pretty reasonable (as far as things like that go) if you are just getting the housing, and just welding on your own perches, brackets, etc. That way you can get the exact length and everything you need. Plus then you'll be able to roll around pimpin' your sweet custom ****.

 

[Elessar65]

Enough Said.

 

[pauley]

i used chromly axles in my dana 44 with a detroit locker and spicer u joints it took every thing i threw at it and i threw alot of **** at it.