Bad rag joint 92 xlt

[dirtnap]

I've noticed that the rag joint is closer to the firewall than I'm used to, will a universal ford rag joint work? Or do I have to get the whole lower shaft assembly from ford(that's all they offer), any help would be appreciated on this, as there's no rag joint left on this thing, and it's a bit of a challenge to keep in a straight line.

thanks in advance.

 

[Maniak]

There was a recent thread in the ranger forum about this..

RangerX has replaced his before.. and he used the replacment rag joint from the Help section. Its not exactly a bolt in (whichis why I didn't do that).. You have to drill out your old rag joint mounts and then bolt the new rag joint in.. OR buy a new intermediant shaft (which is what I did.. from an Az junkyard)

~Mark

 

[dirtnap]

Looks like I'll be buying an intermediate shaft on payday, good thing my Jeep got me used to emptying out my wallet every time I have money. :

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

can someone explain what a "rag joint" is?

 

[Maniak]

Here are a couple pics of mine when it was going bad (cracking)

from the top

from the drivers wheel well

 

[dirtnap]

update

took it into a shop that I deal with, he's going to see about a used intermediate shaft, as both rag joints are toast,and he gets a discount at the wreckers, wish me luck on them having one for me.

 

[410Fortune]

both rag joints????? holey moley more then one of those nasty bastages?

hope they fix you up for cheap, they are easily fixed and or cheap at the junk yard. I can remove my intermediate shaft in about 10 minutes

 

[Maniak]

Both? Where's the other one.. I only know of one on the intermediate shaft.

~Mark

 

[dirtnap]

There's one at the top, about 6 inches from the firewall, and one on the bottom, about 3 inches above the steering box.

 

[RangerX]

Mine has two, one at each end. Maybe not all do?

 

[Maniak]

Sure enough.. there are two.. I just went outside and looked.. For some reason it never registered that there were two.

~Mark

 

[dirtnap]

this is the first thing I've run into with two, I'm used to a u joint up top

 

[hollywood.mike]

so both my rag joints are all gone! lol anyway do i need to buy an intermediate shaft that fits just my 92 explorer sport 4x4 or what other models can i go with from the junk yard???

 

[92exp4x4]

I think my 94 has a u joint at the top? I guess it changed somewhere along the way. Any 88-91 ranger, bronco II, or 91-94 explorer will work, earlier rangers and BIIs might. I would assume that 92-97 rangers would work because they still have the twin traction beam front end. You may even be able to use a full size F series or Bronco shaft as they use the same steering box. Newer explorers may be different because of the rack and pinion steering.

 

[hollywood.mike]

ok hit the local junk yard here in chandler (well kinda local lol) anyway got what i needed and got it fixed all up and works sweet! also got an inst cluster and that fixed the bad engine temp guage but like i figured the fuel guage problem is probably the float so im gonna do the whole fuel pump soon and just get it done. anyway thanks for all the help so far its been very helpful!

 

[earthsafe]

The solution to a bad rag joint, the 2, reinforced rubber discs in the shaft between the lower end of the steering column and the steering gear box, is the universal Chrysler, GM & Ford kit, available at almost all auto parts stores for $10 to $20. Ford no longer services the shaft.

There are two diameters, the larger one is for pick up trucks. The small on works on Explorers.

Each disc is attached with rivets to the shaft. These must be cut, I used a saws-all. The rivets had to be knocked out of their holes with a punch, be careful not to bend the fail safe bracket. Each rivet had a spacer tube around the outside to support the structure while the rivet was set. The new disc has smaller holes, the space is obsolete when the new disc is installed.

None of the hardware with the universal disc was applicable.

We bought 4, 5/16" by 1 1/2", fine thread bolts, with 4 nuts and 2 washers at the hardware store. We also bought 8 faucet washers to make the make the bumps seen in RangerXs' photo above, the center of these was drilled with a 5/16" drill. Two of the bolt heads had to be ground down to fit against the radius on the hub of the adapter to the bottom of the steering column. Two of the bolts were cut by about 4 threads to fit under the fail safe bracket.

Put red Locktite on the bolts, thread on the nuts and tighten them snugly, pinching the rubber disc, but not too tight. Actual labor time is about 1 hour.

This took all the play out of the steering wheel.

This should suffice for another decade or so. Unless I must do the other end.

 

[earthsafe]

The faucet washers did not work out. They shrank and the 5/16" bolts wobbled in the 3/8" holes in the rag joint introducing significant play in the steering.

We procured a new rag joint. We stacked steel washers in place of the neoprene washers. The space in between the 5/16" bolt and the 3/8 " rag joint hole was filled with 3/8" OD poly tubing, reamed with a 5/16" drill bit. Red Loctite was used on the fasteners.

Hopefully, we get more than 21 months out of it.

 

[BKennedy]

If anyone has a blown up intermediate shaft they are going to throw away, please send it to me. I have a project I have wanted to do with a Jeep XJ, 91-94 Explorer hybrid shaft. XJ shafts have two u-joints. My shaft is still in good condition so I don't want to cut it up. I will pay shipping.

 

[gmbroy]

there are threads on here on how to put 2 universals in place of the rag joints & end the problem forever . I think fr425 knows what size to get . Im thinking a 3/4 double d . but cant be sure . but if you search the threads on here I know you will find it . .