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Ball joint replacement

GeorgeR

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 10, 2007
Messages
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City, State
SE FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT
Ok, my Haynes manual says that the lower ball joints are not replaceable on my '96 and that I have to replace the whole lower control arm.(and upper for that matter) Is that true?? I have read and viewed Evans "how to" on ball joints which is great, but apparently his truck is a '2001. Is there a significant difference in the trucks, or is this outdated info??
Thanks
GR
 



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god...i had to change the entire control arm for my firefly too...cost me like 180 bucks for a part that could have been changed for 30 bucks if it was replaceable... im not sure if thats the way with your Ex, but i know its a big ball sucker if you have to change the whole control arm.... x|
 






95 to 01 = same thing. Technically you are supposed to replace the whole lower arm but no one actually does.

His is a 4X4 truck, your 2wd will be easier. This link may be helpful for your 2wd, you can use Evan's link along with this...
http://www.haroh.com/explorer/ball_joint.html
 






Great, how about the upper? Can I press a new ball joint into that control arm? I've noticed that I have a 2 piece arm on one side, and a 1 piece on the other. Is that normal? Or has someone changed one side?
Thanks '96eb for the link and the info. I've seen the same situation in regard to other parts. Makes more money for the dealers in the long run.
Thanks
GR
 






On your '96, you can (relatively) easily replace the lower balljoints without having to replace the control arms. The uppers do require you to replace the control arms. And having the 2 piece on one side and one piece on the other is the stock style.
 






Great, how about the upper? Can I press a new ball joint into that control arm? I've noticed that I have a 2 piece arm on one side, and a 1 piece on the other. Is that normal? Or has someone changed one side?
Thanks '96eb for the link and the info. I've seen the same situation in regard to other parts. Makes more money for the dealers in the long run.
Thanks
GR

Like JDraper said you must replace the entire upper control arms. There are one and 2 piece passenger control arms, really does not matter. I would suggest a Tier 1 brand name like Moog, or motorcraft if you are doing this job. I'm a member of a Lincoln mark 8 board and I know members had terrible results in a short time using cheap front end parts.
 






DO NOT buy the factory ball joints. They are pure junk. Go for a greaseable balljoint from TRW or Moog.
 






DO NOT buy the factory ball joints. They are pure junk. Go for a greaseable balljoint from TRW or Moog.

TRW is and isn't greasable. For the Thunderbirds the Motorcraft part and the TRW parts have the same exact non greasable design(Guess who makes it for M/C...its very obvious). I did buy it though because of the Advance lifetime warranty and if it goes bad its pretty ez to swap.

Probably Moog is your best bet because they have a greasable problem solver design. If TRW is greaseable its probably a good part.
 






I've had horrible results with the factory balljoints in more than one Gen II Explorer. My '01 needed new ones at roughly 25k and again at 40k. I've replaced factory joints in other Explorers at the 20-25k range more than once.
 






I only recommend Moog suspension parts, I have learned my lesson the hard way. Other brands just don't hold up. Most have a decent warranty, but then you have the trouble of replacing the bad part, then another alignment after you replace it.

I also did a write up on the upper ball joint if you want to replace them.
 






I've had horrible results with the factory balljoints in more than one Gen II Explorer. My '01 needed new ones at roughly 25k and again at 40k. I've replaced factory joints in other Explorers at the 20-25k range more than once.

Wow..no more factory suspension parts for me. I would only consider moog now.

Also, I'm curious about how did these ball joints failed so early. I hope they weren't implicated with the up down crowbar test. Up down play is completely normal for Ford Truck ball joints.
 






Wow..no more factory suspension parts for me. I would only consider moog now.

Also, I'm curious about how did these ball joints failed so early. I hope they weren't implicated with the up down crowbar test. Up down play is completely normal for Ford Truck ball joints.

Nope..lots of slop in 'em. I know the stock Fords have about 1/16" up and down movement when new. The ones I've done were far worse than that.

Ford got balljoints as cheaply as they could. Lower quality components, no greasability, crappy boots.
 






Great information! I agree that Moog are the best front end components on the market and that's what I used on my Bronco. However, this truck won't be used for off road running and I'm thinking that I will put moog lowers in and TRW uppers. I've had good success with TRW parts in the past and for the uppers I think they will do and they are considerably cheaper.
Does anyone off hand have the part # for the lower moog joints. Some of these web sites are a little confusing in how they list parts.
Thanks
GR
 






i am having trouble finding the moog lower parts too. I never know if its the right part because like you said, the sites are confusing
 






Moog lower ball joint # K-8695T.
 












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