banging under acceleration

[enyego]

My 97 mounty AWD started making a bang sound when I floored it a couple years back, and now I can only give about 20% throttle off of the line or else it'll make this sound repeatedly 'till it gets up to speed. Strangely, though, if I accelerate and the kick-down is engaged it doesn't do it, presumably because it's not as much load. It never happened until I had the Torque converter replaced, but my mechanic thinks it is the transfer case. I think it could be a universal, but of course they pulled the driveshaft to change the torque converter so they should've replaced the u-joints then.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Check your front driveshaft. The cv joint near the t case will make a banging noise until up to speed. You may want to lift the front end, when mine was parked on an angle the front shaft felt tight, unloaded it has over a 1/4 inch deflection.

 

[JoeMahma]

My 97 mounty AWD started making a bang sound when I floored it a couple years back, and now I can only give about 20% throttle off of the line or else it'll make this sound repeatedly 'till it gets up to speed. Strangely, though, if I accelerate and the kick-down is engaged it doesn't do it, presumably because it's not as much load. It never happened until I had the Torque converter replaced, but my mechanic thinks it is the transfer case. I think it could be a universal, but of course they pulled the driveshaft to change the torque converter so they should've replaced the u-joints then.

Mine was the exact same symptoms. It was the Transfer case. Sounds like yours is getting worse.

 

[Turdle]

No u joints to replace on your front shaft-so they probably just re installed it.

I second the front drive shaft as the culprit for your noise.
Also
grease the slip yoke for the rear drive shaft-

 

[Mbrooks420]

Isn't there a U Joint on the diff side of the shaft?

 

[Turdle]

Isn't there a U Joint on the diff side of the shaft?

yes
But if you remove the shaft, I will bet you find this-
you do need to remove it completely to inspect the rubber dust boot. If it is torn at all the joint is bad.

The design is poor-
the cv joint acts like a cup to catch debris and rocks-
Once a rock is in there it just chews the whole thing up

 

[antimony51]

I just swapped out that front driveshaft today on my 97X. The part only lasted a year. Thank goodness I had a lifetime warranty on the part. jtsmith mentioned it was a bad design (and I agree), but is there anything else that could cause them to go bad prematurely? If this remanned shaft I just put in lasts as long as the previous one, I'm afraid that the parts store I got it from will start to claim that it's something else or that it is installed improperly.

 

[Turdle]

I just swapped out that front driveshaft today on my 97X. The part only lasted a year. Thank goodness I had a lifetime warranty on the part. jtsmith mentioned it was a bad design (and I agree), but is there anything else that could cause them to go bad prematurely? If this remanned shaft I just put in lasts as long as the previous one, I'm afraid that the parts store I got it from will start to claim that it's something else or that it is installed improperly.

We just replaced Bryan's again on Saturday. It was about 3 months old.
The boot was all torn up, and the joint was all chewed out. The shaft was able to move in and out about 1.5"

 

[gavin]

I never bought a remanu'ed one, I got all mine from the junkyard, and greased the hell out of 'em before I installed it (there is a tiny pin-hole at the center of the cup, you can use a needle-point end on a grease gun to fill 'er up).

I'm currently on shaft #4 which is a custom built that has a double-cardan joint at the t-case. I got tired of replacing the POS poorly-designed ball-and-cage cv style shafts.

 

[Turdle]

I never bought a remanu'ed one, I got all mine from the junkyard, and greased the hell out of 'em before I installed it (there is a tiny pin-hole at the center of the cup, you can use a needle-point end on a grease gun to fill 'er up).

I'm currently on shaft #4 which is a custom built that has a double-cardan joint at the t-case. I got tired of replacing the POS poorly-designed ball-and-cage cv style shafts.

I did find a local business which makes driveshafts, however they can't balance them.--
I guess they mainly work on tractors and PTO shafts.

So, what to do?

 

[gavin]

FYI, NeapCo makes the correct double-cardan style flange to bolt to the 6-bolt hole flange (aka, cup) on the t-case.

NeapCo Part # N2-83-287X


N2-83-287X note:

Converts GKN 6 Ball plunge style joint to double cardan u-joint. Fits some Ford, Mercury, and Mazda applications.

You could most likely purchase this flange, and a 96 Sploder OEM double-cardan shaft, and save on the labor for shortening a driveline. I've heard a Jeep Cherokee front shaft and this flange would work also.

I posted this in the RCD FAQ too.

although, going the route of buying a 96 Sploder shaft and swapping the double-carden flanges out may (but may not) require balancing, still.

I know Six States Distributors (www.sixstates.com) can purchase these flanges (their the ones that got me this info, and rebuilt my shaft for me), and the dc flange itself was about $80.

 

[Turdle]

I posted this in the RCD FAQ too.

although, going the route of buying a 96 Sploder shaft and swapping the double-carden flanges out may (but may not) require balancing, still.

I know Six States Distributors (www.sixstates.com) can purchase these flanges (their the ones that got me this info, and rebuilt my shaft for me), and the dc flange itself was about $80.

Ok
I have this thing. It came with Bryans lift kit, attached to the transfer case.

From what I remember it adapts a toyota drive shaft , or is it u joint ?????

 

[gavin]

that's just a spacer, so you can re-use the OEM driveshaft with one of the suspension lifts. definately NOT recommended.

what you want is this:

 

[Turdle]

I'm almost certain I was told by danderson this adapts a different drive shaft-
notice the 6 bolt to 4 bolt conversion--
Also notice the black residue fron the u joint flange riding on it.

I think the 4 black bolts are facing the wrong direction.

 

[gavin]

I'm almost certain I was told by danderson this adapts a different drive shaft-
notice the 6 bolt to 4 bolt conversion--
Also notice the black residue fron the u joint flange riding on it.

I think the 4 black bolts are facing the wrong direction.

shoot.
you're right.
I missed that

so it looks like with that, you can just swap in a 96-97.5 Sploder double-cardan shaft.

and nope, the bolts are facing the correct way.

 

[sallion]

banging noise when taking off

Hey I'm new I have a 97 ford exp awd 5.0 v8 my ford was towed recently now I get a banging noise when I take of to fast please help

 

[Mbrooks420]

Welcome to the site. Why was the Ex towed? What kind of truck? If it was a wheel lift, did he dolly the end on the ground? the first thing I would do is crawl under the truck and try and wiggle the front drive shaft. If that seems nice and snug, I'd try wiggling the rear.

 

[sallion]

i have a 97 ford ex awd 5.0 v8 i dont know how they towed it they must of drag it untill they put it on the flat bed i guess? know i hear a lound bang noise sounds like the front end could it be my u joint is bad please help thank you:exp: