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Battery Cables

Blacksheep Josh

Slinky+Escalator=Fun
Joined
July 31, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Statesboro, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Ford Ranger, RIP 93 X
I've thought about going ahead and replacing my battery cables in the next few weeks... I've had occasional problems with them having bad corrosion, but have ignored it long enough.

Looking on autozone.com, I see they sell "harness kits", which look like overpriced cables I could manufacture myself.

I was wondering if anybody has used the Duralast Battery Cables they sell, like the links below... they would work wouldn't they? and about how long is the cable from the battery to the starter? I don't want to buy cable that is to long/short, even though the cables are pretty cheap.

battery cables

and i don't know why it says wagoneer turbo diesel... i saw it at the store, snapped a picture of it with my camera phone, and googled the part number..

thanks
 



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The positive battery cable connects to a starter relay on the fender so its not very long
 












Jesse your link didn't work it goes right to the vehicle selection.
 






The positive battery cable connects to a starter relay on the fender so its not very long

whenever i look at my battery cables, looks like another bigger cable (red in color vs. the black ones, not sure which is which from memory) is going down somewhere in the engine.
 






Jesse your link didn't work it goes right to the vehicle selection.

Hmmm....I went to fix it and mine went to the place his original link went to. After looking I realized that the two links are the same, not sure how to fix it.

Edit: It works for me now, don't know if it will work for anyone else.
 






The positive (red) coming off the battery should go to the fender then from that relay on the fender should go back behind the motor and down to the starter.
 


















The positive cable does go from the battery to the solenoid on the fender well. Then, from there, it goes down to the starter, so you need two positive cables and one negative one.

I almost always use generic cables -- just make sure that they actually have some wire inside them. Many cheaper cables are all insulation and no actual copper. The more, and thinner the wire, the better they perform.

No need to overkill, but using good stuff insures that you get the most fire to the starter motor.

I'd say that the battery to the solenoid cable will end up being around 12" long, while the one to the starter will be closer to 20". The negative needs to reach to the engine block, so probably 20" is good for that as well. Get good ends, and you'll need a small wire to splice into your system on the battery ends as well.

Here is a NAPA link for a 92 Explorer.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=11&SubCatId=7
 






you guys are going to LOVE these pictures.
i see the cable you're talking about going from the positive end of the battery to the solenoid, but THEN!, there's a regular cable goign to the starter. and when i replaced my starter, there was a thick positive cable, a thin positive cable, and a thick black cable.

this is what i'm thinking, you have the big cable supplying the power, and the thinner one telling the starter to fire, adn of course the ground wire.

s6ppqf.jpg

as you can see, i pulled the wire "up" from the positive terminal, to the solenoid. and then you can see the wire on the right going down to the start. i'm pretty sure this is normal, and it's just the main power source for the starter.


these are the new terminals i'm going to be using. i think they may be for marine use? but they were 6 dollars, and i like the way they have the butterfly nuts on them, so if i need to add an accessory, like an amp, or for lights, it'll be extremely easy to. package said they were polarized? who knows.
eq3s5w.jpg
 






The positive cable does go from the battery to the solenoid on the fender well. Then, from there, it goes down to the starter, so you need two positive cables and one negative one.

I almost always use generic cables -- just make sure that they actually have some wire inside them. Many cheaper cables are all insulation and no actual copper. The more, and thinner the wire, the better they perform.

No need to overkill, but using good stuff insures that you get the most fire to the starter motor.

I'd say that the battery to the solenoid cable will end up being around 12" long, while the one to the starter will be closer to 20". The negative needs to reach to the engine block, so probably 20" is good for that as well. Get good ends, and you'll need a small wire to splice into your system on the battery ends as well.

Here is a NAPA link for a 92 Explorer.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=11&SubCatId=7

yeah, like you said, can't i just get 4ga wire from homedepot or lowes? might be cheaper to buy it by the foot, and create my own ends and such... i'm almost positive it wouldn't be that hard... i mean, if i screw up, i can always put the old cable back on till i get it right.
 






yeah, like you said, can't i just get 4ga wire from homedepot or lowes? might be cheaper to buy it by the foot, and create my own ends and such... i'm almost positive it wouldn't be that hard... i mean, if i screw up, i can always put the old cable back on till i get it right.

The standard home wiring 4ga wire will NOT work for automotive use. It has far too few strands and the strands are WAY too big to carry the loads that an automotive starting and charging system see.

Remember, as you drop voltage, amperage increases. It takes a good wire to carry heavy amperage. In a home scenario, that heavy wire seldom has to carry a heavy amp load, 220 cuts 20 amps to 10 over 110 power.

Welding cable is what is needed for auto use. FYI, most MIG welders operate at 30 volts and over 100 amps. Stick is similar. You can weld with a car battery!
 






lol, i know you can weld with a car battery. i wanted to see what would happen when i touched a wire from the positive terminal, directly to the negative terminal. holy hell, it scared the bejesus out of me.

cool, i'll stick with welding cable then. where can i pick it up? regular hardware stores or you think probably an actual specialty shop?
 












Man, you are right-- that's some bad looking cables! See this thread:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203403

nice, i've actually read that thread many many many times. i think i'm gonna do a little research around town, and see what prices i come up with. if i can save a few dollars using welding cables, i'll go that route. it'll give me something to do one saturday afternoon.

how about those gas prices. 3.05 a gallon here in georgia. sheesh.
 












Dude do yourself a favor and just get the factory cables. They are well-made, stout, have all the right connectors, the right length, they FIT, etc. Been there and done that. The factory cables are the least hassle and BS factor.

You guys should count yourselves lucky that it's only 3.05 a gallon. I paid 3.20 this morning...
 






Dude do yourself a favor and just get the factory cables. They are well-made, stout, have all the right connectors, the right length, they FIT, etc. Been there and done that. The factory cables are the least hassle and BS factor.

You guys should count yourselves lucky that it's only 3.05 a gallon. I paid 3.20 this morning...

i'm going to go and research everything, if the factory cables are cheaper, i'll go with them, if not, i won't.

plus i like a little bs and problem solving. and if they're factory cables.
 



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I agree ^^^^^ Welding cables are best, but they will cost you more than factory-type cables. I use welding cable, because I have a roll of it. Otherwise, it is some high $$$ stuff.
 






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