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BBK TB Install Stalled - Need Part Info/Pic

BuffaloXplorer

The X had to go!
Joined
April 5, 2004
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City, State
Buffalo, New York
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Impala SS
Hey guys - i still haven't gotten around to installing the BBK Throttle Body yet, mainly b/c i don't have the "vacuum coupler" (Ford hasn't been much help - even when provided with the p/n - #N802484-5100).

I'm going to attempt to find the part at Autozone or Carquest, but was wondering if anyone has a pic of what i am looking for. If you do and cannot post it here, please eMail it to me at home

Thanks Much
 



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Vacuum coupler? I know of no such thing for the BBK TB, its a direct bolt on..so I assume you are missing a part? Try using regular rubber vacuum line, should work.
 






According to the BBK instructions for my model year, the part # listed above is needed, as well as a section of 5/32" vacuum tubing, to complete the install. From what i can see, my vacuum valve on the OEM TB is much larger OD than the BBK, which is y these are necessary. I just don't want to get into drilling out the existing TPS screws, installing the new TB, only to find out that it won't work w/o this part.

Thanks

Chris
 






is it maybe a little plastic adaptor? I dont know what it is that your talking about, but I needed a plastic adaptor for something a little while back and pep boys had it, by the EGR, vaccuum lines and stuff.
 






Yes, the OEM spout is bigger than the BBK. I found a piece of line that fits the BBK, then shoved it onto the factory spout. It takes a little pushing but works fine. You'll also need to adjust the bolt on the BBK so that you're idling at around 800.
 






My BBK TB came with a plastic adapter and bit of hose to adapt the stock hose to the BBK's smaller one.
 






Also the idel set screw should be set from BBK, I never had to touch mine.
 






I too am not sure what "vac coupler" is; All I did with my BBK was put a gasket between the TB and the upper intake manifold. I don't recall having any problems with the vac line. Your idle setting ought to be about 650 rpm-700 rpm on a warm engine when you get the TPS and idle set screw right on the money. Have fun with it..
 






how does one adjust the idle set screw? where's it located? do i need to do the tps "mod" to allow for this ideal setting? thanks guys
 






the p/n - #N802484-5100 is not correct. I'm sure it was a typo, but the p/n is
n802484-s100 not 5100. i'm sure they told you that. I work for ford, a parts manager.
I can probably get one. I live in jersey. I try not to let people know what I do. Now everyone is going to be my best friend.I don't mix work and play, but sometimes I like to help on little things. AND NO NOTHING LEAVES OUT THE BACKDOOR AT MY PLACE.....
 






yeah, it was a typo - none of the dealers around here can find it in the system (i think it's a load of ****) - let me know if you've got it and how much the dealer charges for the part - i'll keep looking here.
 






The screw is on the plate that the throttle cable is attached to. Your instructions should have something about that. If I remember correctly mine had me disconnect the IAC and adjust so that it wouldn't die with the IAC unplugged.
 






Alright. You disconnect the TPS and adjust the screw until you're idling at 500RPM.
 






Just wondering - why would you want to idle so low?

I'll look at my "edelbrock" (bbk) instructions later and see what it says about the adjustment. Thanks guys!

If you care, there's more to the story/problem: My "New" throttle body
 












That's with the IAC disconnected. I guess disconnected it should read 500 at stock.
 






BuffaloXplorer said:
Just wondering - why would you want to idle so low?
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For calibrating the throttle set screw. That's why.

Your truck won't always idle at 500 rpm. It should only do that with the IAC disconnected. Once you hook everything up, you want to idle at 650-700 rpm. 500 rpm with IAC disconnected EQUALS 650-700 rpm with IAC connected...IF you have throttle set screw in the right position. That's the whole goal of disco'ing the IAC--you're trying to get the throttle set screw in the right place...

If your truck stalls with IAC disconnected, you need to open up the throttle plate (using the set screw). Get it to idle at 500 rpm with IAC disconnected, make sure your TPS is at what, (0.96? can't remember) volts at idle and you should be in clover.

You'll need a multitester/voltmeter to test the TPS voltage...
chances are you won't need to mess with the TPS...but if all else fails, you will know that the TPS could be misaligned.
 






For the IAC, by disconnected do you mean electrically or physically removed from the intake plenum?

The "throttle plate hard stop screw' that is to be adjusted is the circled part, correct?

2524325243BBKTB2004_1230AB_1.jpg


One more Q: I'm missing the "Black Plastic TPS Bushing" - will one be on the TPS when i remove it from the OEM TB?

I think i've got it now...it's going to take a bit of trial & error to achieve the right idle - my tach (gauge) isn't always true in the cold weather, but i do have a CarChip that will monitor it for me (although i will have to go inside to download the info to see where engine speed is really at)

Thanks for all the help
 






BuffaloXplorer said:
For the IAC, by disconnected do you mean electrically or physically removed from the intake plenum?

The "throttle plate hard stop screw' that is to be adjusted is the circled part, correct?

One more Q: I'm missing the "Black Plastic TPS Bushing" - will one be on the TPS when i remove it from the OEM TB?
electrically disconnect the IAC

Yes

The TPS bushing is the piece just under your gasket in your pic
 



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OK - i thought that may have been the bushing, but b/c it wasn't "Black" as stated in the instructions i was concerned. Now, does that fit inside the TPS or around the "nub" for the tps ON the TB directly (b/c there is a similar part (black) that is already around the "nub").

I swear i'll end the thread and leave you guys alone after that last question!
 






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