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Best 4.0 Ohv head

SleeperBronco

Member
Joined
April 6, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Brunswick, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
90 Bronco II
I am doing another 4.0 build and trying to find decent heads. There are no more EQ 90TM and 95TM heads left new for sale anywhere. What do you guys think? Going on a 90-94 block and I think I can put late model pistons in that block if needed to match the EQ 98TM heads. Going with 422 cam, 19lb injectors, larger valves, larger MAF, and headers. Are the roller rockers worth the price too? Thanks.
 



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Ch244b on ebay, midamericawarehouse has bare EQ 95tm heads for sale $119 each.
 






I am doing another 4.0 build and trying to find decent heads. There are no more EQ 90TM and 95TM heads left new for sale anywhere. What do you guys think? Going on a 90-94 block and I think I can put late model pistons in that block if needed to match the EQ 98TM heads. Going with 422 cam, 19lb injectors, larger valves, larger MAF, and headers. Are the roller rockers worth the price too? Thanks.
Think i just emailed you but will post it here also

Any pistons will fit any block..also dont need a larger MAF unless you tune for it and then its still pointless.the stock one will flow more than your ever make..

Also i dont suggest the roller rockers..there is many problems with that setup (i have the 1.7) and you dont need them for a mild build anyways,stock 1.5 are fine..

""
They dont sell larger valves.you would need to have them custom made by manley , you can go with 1.5 and 1.8 but will need to send them a set of valves to copy..cost i believe around $500 for a set..yes they make a good bit of difference but your need to have your heads and lower manifold ported and polished to take advantage of them..also need new seats..add all the cost up and may not be worth it for a mildish NA build

Id suggest getting stock size SI valves believe part numbers 9007&9008 ill double check..but if you go with a stainless steel valve you HAVE to run a bronze guides . .

Not much difference in the 422 and 410,just alot more power outa the 422..both cams require dual 988 springs and the head spring seat needs to be milled as well as the valve seal nipple.. both cams require longer pushrods as well..

Search ebay for the heads..the true 95tm heads will have large exhaust ports and small combustion chambers..main reason to use 95tm is to raise compression and get the larger exhaust ports that the 98tm dont have ..you can run 90-94tm pistons with late model heads for 10:1 compression,if you dont want 10:1 then 95+ pistons will give you 9:1 but not much reason to look for hard to find 95tm heads. ..

if you dont want 10:1 compression then look for 93tm heads..they have the large exhaust ports but larger combustion chambers . .then run 90-94tm pistons for 9:1..
""

I wouldnt suggest 98tms,the exhaust ports are smaller
 






Thanks much. I was hoping there was a stock set of valves from a another set of heads/motor that would supply ready to fit oversize valves-common place in chevy and ford v8's. I notice the 422 runs just more lift in the intake but more duration overall to produce better power. Good to know about those roller rockers-especially considering the price.
 






Thanks much. I was hoping there was a stock set of valves from a another set of heads/motor that would supply ready to fit oversize valves-common place in chevy and ford v8's. I notice the 422 runs just more lift in the intake but more duration overall to produce better power. Good to know about those roller rockers-especially considering the price.
Yea no other ones will really work..they have a very odd length and diameter and not much room..you cant go bigger than 1.5 and 1.8

The 422 makes alot more power and comes in not much if any after the 410 as far as rpms..I've had both and installed both in peoples motors to only swap them out later on for the 422.if you want power the 422 is only option in my book and honestly id suggest it over the 410 to anyone
 






Here is some pictures of my valves i had made.. i went .100 larger on intake and .150 on the exhaust . .im boosted so went larger on the exhaust , you could go .125 on each..you have about .250 of room to go larger,how you split it is up to you

Used a old head for contrast;)

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Some pics of my stock 90tm heads compared to engine quest 95tm heads,my other EQ 93tm look exactly the same beside the combustion chambers.
in person there is a huge difference
ou7chw.jpg

(90tm intake port)circled in red are things that are not in my 95tm heads!!
v824yh.jpg

95tm so clean
mtmhap.jpg

90tm exhaust port
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95tm exhaust port
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The valves are noticeably larger and thanks for the pics. I do like the idea of running a larger exhaust valve as looking at the 410 cam specs Comp Cams seemed to think that the exhaust side needs more help than the intake side. So I just call up Manley and tell them what I want and they will custom cut a set of exhaust valves and I can order the stock stainless intake valves. The only other motors I have built are a pontiac 400 with GTO heads, 2.11 intake valves, 1.77 sodium filled exhaust valves, headers, edelbrock intake, quadrajet. and 11:1 compression. A 327 Chevy with double hump heads, 12.5 to 1 pop-up pistons, headers, 488 lift cam on both intake and exhaust- that was a lot back then, holley double pumper, 4.11 posi-traction and that darn thing would not shut off even with high test gas back in the early eighties. A 351 Windsor roller motor with GT40p heads ported intake and exhaust, balanced, roller rockers, FMS stainless headers, Comp Cams Extreme cam, edelbrock intake and carburetor in a 85 Bronco that I painted Viper yellow for my late departed wife-she loved that thing.
 






Well depends if you going forced air or not..yes the exhaust side is VERY small but larger gains would probably be felt on the intake side for NA applications..

Should of said this earlier but if you do get a cam and run 988 springs you really need to go to a SS one piece valve anyways..stock is a two piece design and have been known to break off with the added spring pressure . .many have run stock and not had issues but i dont recommend it,not in any motor i build for anyone

You have to send them a valve and print out a form to fill out..let me find my contact at Manley and ill give you his extension if thats the route you wanna take..id bite the bullet though and get 1.8 and 1.5 because SI valves run around $11-14 each so wouldnt be ""much"" more for oversized ones for both..

I just dont know how much of a difference oversized would give you in a NA motor and if it justifies all the cost..alot more work has to be done to the heads for them to fit and really needs to be ported afterwards to flow right..those cost can add up..

If it was me id personally stick to SI stainless swirl polished stock ones..they will flow better than stock and are one piece . .

These motors dont make alot of hp even after you sink tons of money into them unless you go FI like a supercharger or turbo..even if you do everything you can like oversized valves and cam your only make 200-220ish rwhp in a 2wd 5 speed truck..thats why i normally dont suggest the high dollars parts unless going FI like supercharger or turbo . .


  1. SI valves part number,you have to call them
    sev2027 and sev2028 $138 http://www.sivalves.com/onlinecatalog.html
 






I have my eyes on larger valves for my motor.
 












I will take your suggestion into consideration on both intake and exhaust. Years ago with typical small block chevy and ford heads it was common place to swap in larger valves for the added gain. I did on a set of hi-po 289 heads I had ported and ran on a 351W-crazy idea. Friends often swapped out their chevy valves for the 2.02 and 1.60 valves. And thanks for the part numbers and the morana suggestion.
 






Morana offers valves and heads. If you don't see the ones you like, talk to the guy and he probably has it (not all his stuff is listed on the site).

http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=32
I can tell you that his arn't that much over and also they are stock heads,not aftermarket . .for the cost its cheap to have manley make a set and have your local shop do they rest..also most of the porting can be done by you.
 






I am not about to spend money on stock Ford heads and thanks for the heads up on that. And yes I have ported a few heads-not a lot and will get the machine shop to add the bronze guides and new seats. Again thank you for your experimentation and help and all on this site who have built quality 4.0 engines.
 






I am not about to spend money on stock Ford heads and thanks for the heads up on that. And yes I have ported a few heads-not a lot and will get the machine shop to add the bronze guides and new seats. Again thank you for your experimentation and help and all on this site who have built quality 4.0 engines.
I can post some pictures of heads and the lower ive done to give you a idea of how much porting can be done if you want
 






Much appreciated on that idea. I will definitely use the guidance.
 






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Gasket matching the exhaust ports to headers

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the humps
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Once you remove the casting humps for the bolt holes you need to put studs in 2 of the bolt holes for the valve cover.also 1 stud in the far exhaust , this holds the coil pack on the passengers side and the dipstick on the driverside . .then two bolts in the othe exhaust holes..i use high heat red loctight and run them down tight..then go inside the port and grind them flush,then do finial polishing

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And my cc
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I use this to polish . .they are sponge wheels from harbor freight

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JD4242, my wagon needs a set of those heads
 



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Thanks again. That 90 degree bend is heck on exhaust flow!
Yea its pretty bad.those head haven't had the bowls or valve pedestal done yet..i left that for the machine shop when he put new seats and the larger valves in

**Check that post again..some pictures didnt show up and i just added them again..&**


JD4242, my wagon needs a set of those heads
Every 4.0 really needs a set of those heads,lower manifold and larger valves..just very time consuming and expensive . .lol
 






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