bleeding brakes w/o abs

[hatched91]

okay, i installed my 5.5" superlift kit, and now it's time to bleed the brakes after installing the exteneded brakelines. Now i heard if you let the master cylinder dry out, you have to have a special tool or have a mechanics shop do it. I personally don't like abs, and since the fuse is pulled and my abs isn't working, can I just bleed the brakes normally?

 

[DeRocha]

I'm not exactly sure what you're refering to when your say bleed them normally? Normally when you bleed brakes you keep the Brake fluid reservoir topped off so the Master cylinder doesn't run dry and introduce air into the system. With or without ABS getting air out will be a huge PITA.. so never let the MC run dry (check it often when bleeding)...

 

[hatched91]

when i installed my lift i just cut the rubber brakelines, therefore letting all of the fluid drain out.(i think) Now i need to bleed the brakes. Which by that i mean pour fluid into the master cylinder and fill it up and use the bleeder valves to get all of the air out of the system. My question is, with the abs not working, can i still bleed the brakes as if the system had no abs? In the haynes repair books, it says once air enters the system, ur basically screwed for doing it at home, you need to take it to a technician. I am trying to find out if i can still do it at home.

 

[Positive Vibes]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140964

This thread I started might help answer your questions. You WILL need a special tool to prime the abs module.

 

[DeRocha]

If you have ABS then the brake lines from the Master cyclinder run through the ABS hydraulic controller... So if you have air in the brake lines you're screwed :roll: ... It will be a huge pita to get it the air out, unless your were to ditch ABS and re-plumb the brake line to go around the hydraulic unit.

 

[hatched91]

crap. hopefully there isn't air in the line...so if there is air, i need to just tow it to a repair shop that deals w/ abs and brakes? I can't bleed it, deal with a mushy brake pedal until i get there?

 

[sparky2263]

Bleed it normally. The brakes will come up. Then take it to about 10 mph, stomp the brakes (cycling the ABS) then bleed 'em again. Repeat as necessary.

ABS ain't rocket science.

 

[sparky2263]

Note when the special tool needs to be used. ONLY when the HCU is replaced.

 

[hatched91]

so do i need to replace the HCU? or can i just bleed the brakes, stomp on them at 10mph, and repeat and just have no abs?(not a big fan of abs to begin with)

 

[TheRookie]

Ever considder plumbing out your abs? I really dont like the ABS on the first gen to begin with. You could just take the entire unit out of the picture if your states inspection wouldnt fail you for it

 

[DeRocha]

so do i need to replace the HCU? or can i just bleed the brakes, stomp on them at 10mph, and repeat and just have no abs?(not a big fan of abs to begin with)

1st off you really need to bleed the brakes in a normal fashion to see where things are at. As sparky2263 indicated you may NOT have any air in the HCU (hydraulic Control Unit) and therefore won't need to anything else..

On stomping the brakes.. This is to cause ABS to sense wheel lock up and pulse the brakes by rapidly opening and closing valves within the HCU (thus helping to expell any trapped air). If your ABS doesn't currently work (Yellow ABS light is on) this procedure will not work as the ABS system is completely disabled if the ABS light is on. (The special tool used for ABS allows a mechanic the ability to manually control the valves within the HCU)

I would add to Sparky's suggestion that you find some wet pavement so there is less wear & tear and that ABS will easily come on..

 

[sparky2263]

I would add to Sparky's suggestion that you find some wet pavement so there is less wear & tear and that ABS will easily come on..

You mean not everybody has dirt roads nearby?

 

[hatched91]

okay, so i need to put the abs fuse in and make the abs engauge to help drain out air, then bleed the brakes, and repeat until I get properly working brakes?

 

[sparky2263]

No. Bleed the brakes normally. You'll probably get a nice hard pedal. If not, then go cycle the ABS. Then, if necessary, bleed the brakes again.

When bleeding, try gravity bleeding first. Open all the bleeders and fill the master cylinder up. Hopefully, within about 15-20 minutes, fluid will start draining out the bleeders. Keep the M/C full and shut the bleeders off one at a time. Then do a final pressure bleed (if necessary).

That beats the heck out of pumping the brake pedal trying to get it started bleeding. Less chance of M/C damage also.

 

[Glacier991]

Delighted once again to have Sparky on the site.

 

[hatched91]

okay, i finally got all of the brake cables modified to fit and work. When i went to bleed the brakes, one of the rear bleeder valves snapped, and the other stripped. So, I had to go and buy new slave cylinders and learn how to disassemble drum brakes. Not too bad actually. The help of a few friends made the process go not so bad. We finally got them bled, but one of the "new" rear slave cylinders is bad and is leaking out fluid. So I plan to drive it for about 10 miles(school, work, auto parts store) and the replace the slave cylinder. I'm very happy to finally drive the thing after a week. surprisingly, 4wheelparts.com is sending me an entire new set for free because the other ones didn't match up. Only problem is they were supposed to be sent out monday, and they are backordered. So now i will have an extra set of procomp exteneded lines i'll need to get rid of

 

[BrooklynBay]

I once bought a special tool that is basically a check valve with a hose connection for bleeding brakes into a container. In the past, I've tried a few other methods, and this seemed to be the easiest. The manufacturer also recommended connecting 4 of them on all 4 calipers, and/or rear cylinders to simultaneously bleed the entire system. I've only done it one at a time, and it was still very effective.