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Bleeding Steering Rack

madbrown

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 31, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Big Sky
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT
I just installed a new steering rack in my 98' Explorer, but I believe there's air trapped in the rack, because when I make a turn it feels as the wheel and front end is "floating. Then if I turn the wheel a little more it eventually "grabs" and goes into the turn. What's the correct way to bleed the rack? Thanks
 



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Thanks. I think I'll try the steps in the "ehow" link, cracking open the steering line, as the other links are more about flushing the pump. I would try the vacuum approach, but I don't have an ac pump on hand.
 






jack the front end up so the wheels are off the ground and can turn.remove the power steering lid from the pump.

start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to get the majority of air out then turn the wheel all the way to the left and turn the engine off.let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes for the air to escape.without a vac pump this seems to work best.i had to repeat the process about 6 or 8 times.replace the cap on your pump.

never turn the steering wheel with the engine off or you will be putting air right back into the system.
 






I'll try it. I just did that, but with the wheels on the ground. Seems to have made steering better, but still seams to float going into turns.
 






Well, I've turned the steering lock to lock a countless number of times, and there are no air bubbles present in the reservoir. However, I'm still experiencing "floating" in the steering when going into a turn. Wondering if an adjustment to the inner tie rods would help somehow? I know my ailment was not done correctly, but I wouldn't think that it would cause a delayed assist in the steering.
 






Thanks. I think I'll try the steps in the "ehow" link, cracking open the steering line, as the other links are more about flushing the pump. I would try the vacuum approach, but I don't have an ac pump on hand.

You can use a
sykes-pickavant-vacuum-pump-mityvac-.jpg
 






I guess that would be nice, but not even certain what that thing does?
 












Well, I've turned the steering lock to lock a countless number of times, and there are no air bubbles present in the reservoir. However, I'm still experiencing "floating" in the steering when going into a turn. Wondering if an adjustment to the inner tie rods would help somehow? I know my ailment was not done correctly, but I wouldn't think that it would cause a delayed assist in the steering.

Well, caster and caster split have a role in determining steering effort and "returnability" (how quickly the wheels go back to center, if you let go of the wheel after a turn).

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle
 






Thanks for the links. Definitely informative. So when I look at the front end of the rig w/the tires straight ahead there're slightly toed out. From the article I read it sounds that this could have an affect on control when entering a curve. Thinking of messing w/ the outer tie rods and try to get the tires to point a little more forward, since my ailment wasn't done correctly anyways.
 






I did some pretty extensive front-end work on my 1998 sport and noticed that if the steering is turned back and forth (like you might do if replacing brakes) without the engine being on the steering unit appears to get air in it.
It is pretty herky jerky for a few miles then it self corrects.
It seems that if you turn the wheels back and forth several times after startup this is minimized.

Brad
 






I guess that would be nice, but not even certain what that thing does?

Ford has a special adapter you would put on the might-vac hand-operated vacuum pump.

You would install the adapter/replacement reservoir "cap" and hook the hose line on to the hand vac. Pump the hand vac numerous times to create a vacuum, then turn the steering lock to lock numerous times.

The vacuum created by the hand vac would assist with pulling air out of the system; rather than just, essentially, gravity-bleed (which is done by just removing the reservoir cap and turning lock to lock numerous times).
 






I'm starting to think that the lack of initial assist going into a curve has to due to the way the vehicle was aligned. The toe is slightly out and the camber is definitely a little heavy on the negative side. When I think about even if there was air in the rack it shouldn't matter because the rack operates on a toothed rod. Besides I've bled, bled, & bled and there're no more air bubbles in fluid, groaning noise, or herky jerky feel. Just what I'm thinking, but I do really appreciate all the help and advice.
 






generally, if it doesn't jerk, it's most likely not air in the system. The jerking is due to the fact that air can be compressed; the power steering fluid cannot. So the jerk happens when the air is getting compressed/uncompressed
 






Definitely don't have any jerking in the steering.
 






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