Brakes

[chetzar]

I replaced my brakes this past weekend and ran into a small problem with the passenger side. I did both pads and rotors, and for some reason the passenger side is rubbing. You can tell because when the caliper and pads are on, if you spin the rotor you can hear it, and if you drive on it, it sounds like a grinding/rubbing sound. Now at first i thought it was the outer pad, so I put the old one back on (it still had just over 1/2 the pad left, I replaced them cuz the rotors were warped and I wasnt going to do rotors and throw old pads on) and the back side was rubbing.
Now if I move the caliper when the pins are not in, I can get it to sit in a position where it wont rub, but as soon as I put the pins in, moves back and rubs. I tried Anti-Seize on the sliders for the pins on the caliper and caliper mounting bracket after cleaning them off with a wire brush. My impression is the caliper is supposed to be able to move back and forth some on the pins to adjust if needed due to pad thinkness.
Also, it still rubs when the caliper piston is fully compressed, and gets worse after i press on the brakes and it presses against the pads and rotor.
Oh and I took everything off and re-greased everything and made sure it was all on right (I checked Galicers991's thread, which ROCKS, the socket idea = best thing since milk and cookies, and I checked the Haynes manual)

So, to make it more appealing to people who dont like to read long posts I have tried:
Anti-Seize on the slots for the pins on the caliper/mounting bracket
Old pads with and without caliper piston fully compressed
And of course new pads with and without caliper piston fully compressed
Took the entire rotor and hub assembly off, re-greased everything and made sure it was all on right and done the correct way.

AND

It still rubs.
I'm begining to think something (the rotor) is too thick because the drivers side is just fine.

Any Ideas would be great, as its gonna sit till atleast Sat when I have time to mess with it and when my dad will be home to look at it with me.

 

[Four0Sport]

get out the ol trusty dial caliper and see if the rotor isnt machined down enough. i sometimes sell rotors that havnt been trued and they cause similar problems. other than that id say your piston isnt seated, and i know you said you seated it, but just for my own amusement did you take the cap off of the master cylinder and depress the piston flush with the caliper? also, check the spring cradled in the caliper, i had one get bent up and it kept the inside pad agaisnt the rotor, actually pulled the prongs out of the piston, crazy stuff.

if none of that works.. do what i do, just keep re-doing it till its right. sometimes you overlook a small detail, check and check again. hope someone else might have an answer for you.

- Jack

 

[chetzar]

Acually, I didn't remove the cap on the MC before I compressed the piston, and now that I think about it, I never have. Just because i'm curious, what effect does this have on the caliper when compressing the caliper piston? (I did comprss the piston flush with the caliper however, I AM going to do it again)

Also, Haynes says that the Min thickness of the rotor is .810 and that the standard is .870, does this sound right?

Thanks for the response and the tips Four0

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Did you replace the anti-rattle clips on the inside pads? If you didn't that may be your problem.. They're little metal clips that go on the bottom, and act as a spring to keep tension on the inside pad, and to keep it from just falling against the rotor.

 

[Four0Sport]

also, check the spring cradled in the caliper

thanks for seconding josh lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes check it all, but was the wheel bearing checked also? Lift the tire off of the ground and see what play there is in the tire, and the ball joints. It is common to have either the bearings loose, or the ball joints worn out. Regards,

 

[Four0Sport]

i was thinking that also.. maybe the retaining nut isnt torqued correctly prohibiting the rotor from seating itself, just a thought

 

[chetzar]

Dial Caliper says its at .898 whichs comes out to just under 23mm (22.8092 to be more exact), gonna measure the one on drivers side to see what the thickness is, but so far it looks like this is the culprit.

 

[Four0Sport]

where did you buy your rotors? are they a good brand or an off brand? we stopped carrying bendix rotors where i work and now we only sell off brands, it sucks. i do get a good discount on brembos though : ) its a thought, my rotors are factory and are pitted and warped, not severe but could be changed.

 

[chetzar]

Pass side is .896 and has the faintest sound of a rub when i spin it. They are duralast pads and rotors.

 

[boggs1227]

theres your problem ....dura-blast pads ( lol ) ...worst break pads i have ever bought .got them on both my chevy and the x and they produce so much dust it's not even funny ...next time i'm going with ceramic .