Broke 2 UJoints and a Hub at Indy in Penrose, CO Suggestions? PICS

[Kirby N.]

Well I broke 1 hub, and both ujoints in my front axle this weekend on Independance Trail in Penrose, CO. Had fun doing it though! About 10 minutes into the trail I broke a hub, but I was having problems with it a few days ago so I am not sure it wasn't already jacked up. Then, I was up with all the weight on the front and got on the gas pretty hard in reverse and BANG! funs over! Had to disconnect my driveshaft and drive it out/ winch it out in 2 low because I didn't have any extra shafts.

Pics are Here:

http://groups.msn.com/KirbyandChuck/indypenrose.msnw

Toasted U Joint:

http://groups.msn.com/KirbyandChuck/indypenrose.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=277

I really don't want to buy chomo shafts or CTMs because I am cheap. Thinking of welding the caps in. Has anyone done this with a simular setup and had luck? I am running a Dana 44 (w/ 5-760X Joints) and 37s and a front detroit.

 

[RockRanger]

I welded the caps on and then added a plate over the top of the ujoints on my dana 28 in my old 86 ranger. It held for a few wheeling trips till I swapped in a dana 35. Of coarse I also welded the ears back on as they were already broken as well. Maybe find a local place they will cyro treat your shafts to gain a little strength. I think alloys would be the best bet though.

 

[Kirby N.]

I have been doing some research and I think I am going to add full circle clips- then see if I can stop breaking it! If not I will have to look into a more permanent and costly solution.

 

[sn0border88]

you could look at getting hub fuses, warn makes em and they are designed to blow before a hub or anything else and are very cheap and easy to replace. Just my .02

 

[james t]

Dont go with the full circle clips on a stock shaft. On stock axles, you have to have them machined for the clips. This removes some material at the weakest and thinnest point on the stock shafts. Now the caps will stay in but the ears are weaker. Tack welding works great... ive been running tacked caps on stock shafts for years. It doesnt take much to hold the cap on, just a few small tacks. Dont over-do it or you'll burn the grease out and melt the seal.

 

[Kirby N.]

I ordered the ujoints and full circl clips off an ebay guy this weekend. I will look at where I am going to need to machine them. Thanks for the advice James. I may still end up just welding them,but I have heard some very good things about the full circle clip. I talked to a guy here locally that swears by them. He was having the same problem as I and it solved his problems! I also found some cheap OX joints here locally, and I almost bought them, but after some research I decided they probably won't fit stock shafts. I will write up a follow up when I get it done. I got a wheeling trip in 3 weeks, so it will be soon!

 

[Kirby N.]

Ok, got the stupid front end apart and found some metal frags in the bottom of the diff. Piece of Junk Detroit. I have seen 3 like this lately. Sheered of the teeth on a clutch hold out ring. I can fix it, but I am not sure I want to. I guess I will put a TL carrier in there for my next trip and decide later. Oh, I also toasted both the inner and out shafts on my drivers side. On one the yoke ear is bent on the other the holes are wobbled. Any body breaking Dana 44 detroits out there? I am a little annoyed...

 

[sn0border88]

I take it this was a LSD detriot and not the c-locker? Maybe switch to powertrax?

 

[Kirby N.]

No. It is a c-locker NoSlip Detroit. You think LSD because I said clutch? All detroits have a clutch type mechanism, but they have a gear driven clutch type mechanism. Lunch box lockers are a simular design with gear teeth type clutches.

I really, really don't think a lunchbox locker like a powertrax will be nearly as strong.