Broken Band

[Willard]

So I pulled the pan to replace some of the tranny fluid on my A4LD. While I was in there, I thought I'd adjust the bands and re-torque the valve body bolts, since it hasn't shifted right for about 2 years. By not shifting right, I mean 1-2 had to be done by moving the shifter from D-OD, you couldn't get 1st while in OD and you couldn't get 2nd while in D.

After in 2nd, you had to let off the gas all the way and way for about 3 seconds and slowly reapply the throttle and you would get 3rd, and 4th always worked fine.

So with the pan off, I was looking around and noticed the Intermediate band looked like it was off or something. I noticed it was only partially on the drum. So I thought, "maybe I can just loosen it a little and move it back then tighten it".

Well, I was starting to get it tight then felt something give. Backed the adjuster bolt out and the thing on the end of the bolt (don't know the name) practically fell out. Got to looking, and realized the retainers on the band itself for that side were gone (or bent flat, who knows which one).

So my question is, is there any fixing this without removing the transmission? I didn't know if there was any way to replace the band somehow with just the VB off. I wouldn't think so, but transmissions are new ground to me.

 

[Wrench]

No quick fix. Trans has to be pulled and taken apart to replace the band. We can help if you want to do it yourself but you need to be fairly mechanicaly inclind with tools and a good jack and plenty of patients.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The overdrive band is in the front, so if you have to open the transmission, you wouldn't have to dig too far to get to it. It's more of a project to get to the intermediate band.

 

[Willard]

So pretty much I'm gonna have to pull the trans then.

I can do it, my dad can help me, he's pulled a few transmissions in his time. I've got the tools, jackstands, and two jacks, so we should be able to do it. I'm not sure he's ever pulled an auto though, only manuals, and I know autos are significantly larger and heavier. How heavy is one of these? Is there a possibility the two of us could wrestle it out without using a jack? And what's the best way to use the jack if you don't have a transmission adapter?

What else could be cheaply replaced while I'm inside? If I'm gonna be in there, I might as well do refresh some other stuff. I'm thinking frictions, steels, maybe the OD band as well. I just can't dump very much money into it, I don't have much to do it with. Sorry for all the questions, I've never done this though and want to do it right.

 

[BrooklynBay]

A regular floor jack is kind of difficult to use. A scissor style transmission jack is much easier. Do you have a motorcycle jack? That might be another option. There might be some hard parts which have to be replaced. I know that the rear friction washer is usually shot. That part is around $4, and change. The transfer case could be disconnected separately to get rid of some of the weight. The torque converter is pretty heavy, and would make it lighter after it's removed.

 

[Willard]

Yea all I have are regular floor jacks. We'll figure something out, between my dad and I we can get pretty inventive, so I think we'll come up with something.

How heavy is it? Is it possible for the two of us to just bench press it?

 

[BrooklynBay]

I've lifted these transmission myself, and carried them into the basement. I've also moved a 3.0L engine, but not too far since that is probably twice the weight if not more.

 

[Willard]

Sounds like we might be able to pull it without a jack then. I know my dad did that with the 5-speed in the B2 he used to have.
I'm getting anxious now to start this project. I want it done so I can get my explorer back on the road again. I've read through Glacier's rebuild diaries more than once, looks like I'll get a chance to look through them for real this time.

Thanks for all your help BB.

 

[Maniak]

I'd use a jack to pull it.. otherwise you need someone holding it up as you pull the last few bolts.. if not it could tip and crack/break the bell housing.. Putting it back in is almost the same. but when you put it in, your know when your gonna get the weight (since you already have it)..

I used a trolly jack once with some wood under it and a block on top of it to hold the weight of the trans as I pulled it..

~Mark

 

[ScottBowden]

I just pulled mine. I started with a regular floor jack, then ended up wiggling it out and onto my chest while I was on the creeper. Then, I just lightly let it down to the bellhousing side and slid it out from under the truck. The truck was only raised 5-6 inches.

 

[Willard]

So I guess the pan is strong enough to hold the weight of the transmisson if I put some wood on top of the jack?

 

[BrooklynBay]

It is strong enough just as long as you don't drop the transmission onto it. Lower it down slowly.

 

[Blee1099]

Go to harbor freight and get one of their transmission jacks.. I think they are $80 or so..

 

[BrooklynBay]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178

 

[CDW6212R]

I suggest doing at least a VB kit, and the accumulators in the side(get the big later model parts), Sonnax upgrades. Look it all over very carefully also.

 

[Willard]

Tranny jack would be great, but I don't have $80 to spare and the closest Harbor Freight is about 50 miles away. Shipping would probably be a ***** on that one too.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, I'm determined to do this. If I remember to, I may take some photos and do a write-up on R&Ring the transmission.

Oh, and I will be seriously considering some VB work, although this band has likely been my main issue for a long time now. When it broke initially it was extremely cold outside (below 0) and it just stopped shifting and took out the modulator at the same time. That was replaced then, but didn't fix the issue. I am thinking the band slipped off when the modulator failed somehow and has been like that since.

 

[Willard]

Another quick question-

Approximately how high does the front end need to be off the ground to do this effectively?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Do you have ramps? If your front end is good (not sagging), then ramps should be fine. BTW, the HF jack is around $10 for shipping. There is a coupon code on this site for 15% off if you pick it up locally.

 

[Willard]

So if I'm in there should I do the frictions and steels too? Or can I say since they worked fine before that they should be okay for now?

Edit: Something else, again-
Will I need a pump alignment tool for this? If so, is there anywhere I can get one for cheap?

 

[BrooklynBay]

You will only need the pump alignment tool if you open the pump. A rebuild kit contains the friction plates, and seals. You might as well do a full rebuild if you are already opening it up. You will need seals, gaskets, servo pistons, modulator, filter, and possibly more stuff.